Leaky Retracting Keel Box

Sep 20, 2019
2
Venture Venture 22 Pueblo, Colorado
I have recently begun taking on water on my 75' MacGregor Venture 22'. I suspect the water is pumping up through the keel pivot bolt area (forward), mostly and some water is getting in through the keel winch cable guide hole too (more aft, more minor). The previous owner of this little fresh water sailboat horribly roughed a hole for electrical from beneath the common seat compartment adjacent the keel pivot bolt area (up high, fortunately), which I suspect to be the culprit, thereby allowing big water into that compartment, accumulating and thereby flooding the rest of the compartments (since more roughed in holes exist in each compartment, adjoining all). This is merely conjecture at this point, but it seems reasonable that this is where I'm breached, in all likelihood.

"How best to seal the very rough hole & wiring coming through the compartment bulkheads..." is the question.

IN any case, I've decided to install a simple auto bilge pump, since none exist currently, along with a simple 1" drain plug on the transom as well. The drain plug at the transom is relatively easy, however MacGregor installed white foam blocks through-out, assuring almost zero access to the drain plug area from inside. So some fun a coming there, oh boy :)

One more unrelated improvement worthy of interest:

Keel Cable Noise: I did not care for the very loud hum sound produced by the 1/8" SS Keel Cable when the boat traveled at any speed. The noise was highly annoying and became louder as the boat gained speed in the water. Swapping that SS Cable to 3/8s Amsteel or Kevlar reduced the harmonic resonance noise by 90%. Secondary was a very difficult 75 cranks on the original 75, OEM winch mechanism, to extend or retract the 600 lb Keel :-( . For $49, Harbor Freight had the ideal fix: Their smallest wireless remote, 12v winch dropped in and replaced the hand cranker, all too simply (a 2 hour installation, if it took that long). OMG, how perfect, with a wireless key-fob that says "extend" or "retract" on it no less! Absolutely the very best addition I've made to this sailboat! FWIW

Lastly, in regards to locking the Keel down in place: What is the point? I can see how the Keel might be allowed to move around a bit more and certainly knock up, thereby retracting if it strikes somethings or the lake bottom (perhaps a good thing). However, this is a fresh water lake boat only and we will "beach" it on occasion. Locking the Keel down does not make a lot of sense, 95% of the time we're sailing. In addition, I can see how the lock-down 6" Bolt has caused damaged to the Keel Box at some point, perhaps when the boat struck something beneath, previous to my ownership (I'm guessing the owner forgot to retract it when hauling out or something). This may also be a contributing factor to the leaking keel box at this point, I don't know for sure, yet. In any case, why would we bother to actually lock the keel down in place when day-sailing?

Thanks for the feedback my sailor friends :)

LKL


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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,505
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Hello Larry... Welcome to the Forum. Nice write up on the issues you are experiencing with your boat.

Not every owner takes care in drilling holes in their boat, as you have discovered. Most of them are not an issue. Our Fiberglass boats are remarkably easy to repair. You may even discover you have a talent with fiberglass as you improve your boat. Just be sure you are keepign the water outside of the hull. What goes on inside the hull is different, and it sounds like you are using the "botched" electrical install to good use with a new bilge pump.

I will share a caution about the "White Foam blocks". McGregor installed them so that the boat stays afloat should too much water get on the inside. Without the foam the boat will sink like a rock. Not a good outcome for you if it should happen. So keep the foam and work around it. The mantra is the foam is your friend.
 
Sep 20, 2019
2
Venture Venture 22 Pueblo, Colorado
JS,
Thanks for chiming in.

Actually, I am fairly versed on glass work (built several Rutan Experimental aircraft), so no worries there. I'm very comfortable and fully equipped to glass anything. It's the several wires coming through the several poorly punched holes that will allow water to breach if I don't seal them all correctly. I'd prefer to water-tight each compartment, then put the foam back in place, etc. . Expanding foam, used sparingly, might help, but I was hoping for something more trick that I have not discovered yet, LOL. Water proof puddy like, in rope or sheet form might be a better choice. Heck, just don't know :-(

I could not agree more about the white foam. Terrific, very safe idea and I won't stray. I bought this boat for my daughter (cheaper than sailing lessons) and it's a very safe ride in general. The foam is a big part of it's built in safety feature I much appreciate.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,505
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I have used Marine-Tex to plug holes above the waterline on boats. Usually adding cloth on the outside after it has had a few days to harden. Cloth helped me feel better about making the area water tight.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
This link might help. Bedit tape is good stuff.


Ken