During motoring this past weekend I noticed that water was spinning out of the propeller shaft packing gland at a high rate. I have never had the experience before of repairing this unit. My 1988 Catalina 30 has the black rubber hose cover with two clamps over the gland, which is accessible in the galley area. Could someone please provide some guidance as to how to tighen, repack, inspect and or refurbish this unit without the boat flooding!? Thanks Bob
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Packing Gland
See the following link, it should have all the information that you require about the procedure. You should consider using GFO packing too. See http://www.emarineinc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html http://www.diybob.com/diyPackingGland.htm Peter
See the following link, it should have all the information that you require about the procedure. You should consider using GFO packing too. See http://www.emarineinc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html http://www.diybob.com/diyPackingGland.htm Peter
Stuffing Box
1. You don't need to dive under the boat to stuff the hole as recommended in the reference article. Not a whole lot of water comes in when you're repacking the stuffing box, and you can do it in the water. 2. It sounds more like you're talking about the stern tube, the black hose with four hose clamps. If thats the case, try replacing the hose clamps, they're most likely rotten at the screw connection point. That, too can be done in the water. One clamp at a time.
1. You don't need to dive under the boat to stuff the hole as recommended in the reference article. Not a whole lot of water comes in when you're repacking the stuffing box, and you can do it in the water. 2. It sounds more like you're talking about the stern tube, the black hose with four hose clamps. If thats the case, try replacing the hose clamps, they're most likely rotten at the screw connection point. That, too can be done in the water. One clamp at a time.
it's easy -- use 3/16" flax with teflon ptfe
However, before replacing the packing gland's 'flax' packing, consider just tightening the packing gland. This way, you could await your normal haul-out and replace the packing gland 'flax' then. There is a special wrench called a 'packing gland' wrench, it is basically just a large 'adjustable wrench', but with flatter/thinner blades. Consider buying two of them. Check on-line at westmarine or defender to see/order one. You should be able to remove the stairs, lift of the sole board in the galley, take off the 4 screws holding the engine access cover hinges and place all out of the way. Then, with one packing gland wrench inside the engine compartment on the 'locking' nut, and the other (or a large pair of water-pump pliers) on the 'packing' nut, loosen the 'locking' nut by moving it to starboard while holding the 'packing' nut tightly to prevent putting strain on the black hose. Once the 'locking' nut is loosened, just grab the 'packing' nut by two fingers (thumb and pointer) and tighten it lightly (it should have been dripping before starting, and you want it to just stop dripping now). Then tighten the 'locking' nut and verify you have somewhere between it being moist and 8 drips/minute while rotating the prop shaft by hand. Hope this helps....
However, before replacing the packing gland's 'flax' packing, consider just tightening the packing gland. This way, you could await your normal haul-out and replace the packing gland 'flax' then. There is a special wrench called a 'packing gland' wrench, it is basically just a large 'adjustable wrench', but with flatter/thinner blades. Consider buying two of them. Check on-line at westmarine or defender to see/order one. You should be able to remove the stairs, lift of the sole board in the galley, take off the 4 screws holding the engine access cover hinges and place all out of the way. Then, with one packing gland wrench inside the engine compartment on the 'locking' nut, and the other (or a large pair of water-pump pliers) on the 'packing' nut, loosen the 'locking' nut by moving it to starboard while holding the 'packing' nut tightly to prevent putting strain on the black hose. Once the 'locking' nut is loosened, just grab the 'packing' nut by two fingers (thumb and pointer) and tighten it lightly (it should have been dripping before starting, and you want it to just stop dripping now). Then tighten the 'locking' nut and verify you have somewhere between it being moist and 8 drips/minute while rotating the prop shaft by hand. Hope this helps....
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