Leaking deck plate replacement

[skunther]

This deck plate has a latch that seems to be leaking rainwater when at dock with our stern to weather. I’d like to replace it with something watertight. I’ve seen the pry off type, as well as the screw type, but I’m not sure which would be better, if there is a difference in water tightness. I assume I’ll need to remove the plate and the mount, then install a new one (though if it’s possible to simply replace the gasket and plate while keeping the mount, that would be great).

Any recommendations on water tight deck plates, or if I can potentially even switch the plate while keeping the existing mount?

 

[kappykaplan]

Is it leaking around the edge that's sealed to the deck, or around the gasket under the removeable cover?

 

[Tally Ho]

I use the screw on ones as inspection ports on my water tank. Mine are smaller (6”) and they seem to be water tight even when the tank is full and I have Tally Ho pounding through the waves.

I keep the o ring lubricated with some SuperLube.

Greg

 

[kloudie1]

Check for a crack where the pull tab axle pin goes thru..

 

[Calif. Ted]

That hatch is used over the emergency tiller head on my boat so the helmsman stands on it. Replaced recently because the cover had cracked starting at the pull tab as Claude indicated. Whatever caulk was used for the frame seemed indestructible so I left it and just replaced the center hatch. Surprising was that Worst Marine had best price (49.99) and could pick up at local store.

 

[skunther]

It appears to be leaking through the latch itself - there is rust stain on the bottom side of the latch.

 

[skunther]

That hatch is used over the emergency tiller head on my boat so the helmsman stands on it. Replaced recently because the cover had cracked starting at the pull tab as Claude indicated. Whatever caulk was used for the frame seemed indestructible so I left it and just replaced the center hatch. Surprising was that Worst Marine had best price (49.99) and could pick up at local store.

What hatch did you get? Are they standard sizes such that I could just switch mine out and leave the frame (much preferable)? It covers an access port to the holding tank, which I have not once needed to access, and I am considering just injecting some flowing silicone sealant into the latch mechanism to seal it.

 

[skunther]

Is it leaking around the edge that's sealed to the deck, or around the gasket under the removeable cover?

Neither from what I can tell. It seems to be coming through the latch mechanism. I’ve superlube the gasket, but that may also be a culprit. Can I get a replacement gasket somewhere?

 

[Calif. Ted]

Mine was an 8" as yours also appears to be, I must have caught them on sale, might want to shop it around. Also come in "white" and "off white" I put a new white hatch on old off-white frame, unnoticeable to my eyes.
Locking Composite Deck Plates | West Marine

 

[JoeWhite]

On my C36 it is made of metal. I am not sure what size it is, but it is the screw on type. Now I see why it is metal. I would replace it with metal type.
Visit Freeman Boat Liftout Deck Hatch 2401-0002 | 8 Inch Compression Seal Aluminum

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The center plate is screwed in and doesn't object to being stood upon for endless hours.

If you just want to replace the gasket, the O-ring material can be found on Amazon for a few dollars and where the ends are butt glued together, the joint is stronger than the original material.

 

[skunther]

The center plate is screwed in and doesn't object to being stood upon for endless hours.

View attachment 225396

If you just want to replace the gasket, the O-ring material can be found on Amazon for a few dollars and where the ends are butt glued together, the joint is stronger than the original material.

For O Ring material, are you referring to something like this?

Amazon.com

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

For O Ring material, are you referring to something like this?

Yipes ! That's the material and it's certainly gone up over the last 10 years. Be sure to use Krazy Glue when you butt the ends together. Experiment first to practice making 90 deg. cuts and gluing them. A small wooden jig makes it easier for a tight glue job.

 

[dLj]

Yipes ! That's the material and it's certainly gone up over the last 10 years. Be sure to use Krazy Glue when you butt the ends together. Experiment first to practice making 90 deg. cuts and gluing them. A small wooden jig makes it easier for a tight glue job.

When I used to make O- rings for critical applications - i would make 45 degree cuts, not 90 degree cuts. You may not need that here but if you are making a jig, you may want to consider that. When you make the Krazy glue connection, if the joint doesn't come out perfectly, you can use fine sandpaper to smooth out the joint. I would sand only in the longitudinal direction. Makes for a better joint.

dj

 

[JamesG161]

i would make 45 degree cuts, not 90 degree cuts.

Not correct.

Over lap and do a 90° cut then Super Glue the ends, Count to 15 and done.
Jim...

 

[dLj]

Not correct.

With all due respect - bullshit

dj

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Gentlemen, gentlemen.

With all due respect to both of you, I'm going to have to say that the greater the surface area of the joint, the stronger the joint becomes. As the Buna-N material of the O ring is homogenous, the angle of the cut should not alter the the adhesion force P (in lbs/inch²) between the two faces, therefore the tensile force F (in lbs.) required to separate the joint becomes larger as the area of the ellipse becomes larger :

F = P X A

 

[JamesG161]

I had a Naval Aviation Mechanic explain how when they were missing an O-Ring to fix air Craft they did this...

Example 1" O-Ring needed [happened to me]
1) Nothing that size Available but a 1.5 inch same diameter was from TrueValue store
2) He cut the 1.5 inch and wrapped it around the 1 inch pipe
3) Cut it on 90°
4) Put a drop of SuperGlue one end
5) Stuck the flat ends together counted to 15
6) Told me to pull them apart , which I could not.

WOW !

You can learn many new things

Jim...

PS: Be careful when cussing at anybody on SBO
PSS: Yes Ralph the O-Ring was the same rubber type

 

[JamesG161]

F = P X A

True!

Try to match the perfect replacement with an Oval Shaped cut.

Jim...

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Try to match the perfect replacement with an Oval Shaped cut.

Yes, I imagine it would become quite difficult but I'm not interested in a practical world as I live in a theoretical world :

​

And as far as buying a 50¢ O ring which is slightly larger than the O ring required and then cutting it back, waaaaaaaaay too practical. Buy a whole roll of O ring material for $12.00 and start from there.

@JamesG161 , you're way too practical for me .