What's the best knot for rigging my bow and spring lines to the pilings at my slip? The slip is two pilings at one end and bulkhead at the other. I'll be coming in stern first. Any advice on slip rigging out there?
Knots??
- Thread starter Captnkev25
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Eye Splice & Chafe Protection
I use an eye splice in the dock line with a length of fire hose to provide chafe protection. The boat in the slip next to me uses double braid with the running end passed through the eye splice with no chafe protection. It holds his Grand Banks 45 in place so I guess it works also.
I use an eye splice in the dock line with a length of fire hose to provide chafe protection. The boat in the slip next to me uses double braid with the running end passed through the eye splice with no chafe protection. It holds his Grand Banks 45 in place so I guess it works also.
Attachments
I would look at something line this for securing your boat.
http://www.sailorsams.com/mall/tideminders.asp
You should also have some type of hook to place your lines on if they do not stay on the boat.
http://www.dockbuilders.com/pilecaps.htm
http://www.sailorsams.com/mall/tideminders.asp
You should also have some type of hook to place your lines on if they do not stay on the boat.
http://www.dockbuilders.com/pilecaps.htm
We slip our boat similar to how you describe: two pilings outboard, bulkhead, stern-to. There are also pilings at the bulkhead. We're using 1/2", 3-strand nylon line. Currently using a bowline around each of the pilings, planning to change to large eye splices when I re-new the lines. Before tying the bowlines, I passed the line through sections of old garden hose, 1/2" ID, to provide chafe protection around the piling. I'll put garden hose on the new lines before I do the eye splices.
I considered taking two round turns around the piling before tying the bowline, but that would prevent the line from traveling up/down the piling when we get unusually high/low tides. I thought about tideminders, but they'd be prevented from going up/down the pilings if boats in adjoining slips tied off to the same pilings.
I also just bought some snubbers (the big black rubber ones) to wrap the lines around to absorb shock from high winds and wakes from boats passing up the creek our slip is on. Will have to lengthen my lines to use them, that's when the eye splices will go in.
Mike Turner
Lazyjack 32 schooner "Mary'Lis"
Mobile Bay, Alabama
I considered taking two round turns around the piling before tying the bowline, but that would prevent the line from traveling up/down the piling when we get unusually high/low tides. I thought about tideminders, but they'd be prevented from going up/down the pilings if boats in adjoining slips tied off to the same pilings.
I also just bought some snubbers (the big black rubber ones) to wrap the lines around to absorb shock from high winds and wakes from boats passing up the creek our slip is on. Will have to lengthen my lines to use them, that's when the eye splices will go in.
Mike Turner
Lazyjack 32 schooner "Mary'Lis"
Mobile Bay, Alabama
Some of the boats in our marina have a single block on each piling with a line and heavy weight in the water. When they tie up they simply pull the weight off the bottom and cleat the line onto their boat. That way te boat stays centered in the slip and the lines stay taut through all of the tidal range.
I had some scrap 3/8 chain, so used 6-foot pieces to go around the piling and connect with a shackle to a 3-strand that goes onto the boat's cleats with a spliced eye. The weight of the suspended chain helps keep the boat in the middle of the slip.
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In addition to the suggestions above, I think you will find it useful to have buddy (also called sissy) lines for your slip. Tie a 1/2' line from the outer piling on each side parallel to the slip back to the bulkhead. Now, when you are backing in, if things get a little crossed up, you have something to push off or pull against to get straight.
I find it easier to tie off the lines on the pilings at the correct length (has to accommodate tide and wind from all directions) and use the eye splice ends at the boat. In certain conditions, an eye splice loop can jump or work its way off the cleat unless you do the following: On the boat's cleat pass the eye splice loop through the center of the cleat and then around the horns of the cleat. Now the line can't work itself off the cleat no matter what. The advantage of this arrangement is that you never worry about adjusting lines...just place the eye splice loops properly on the cleat and you are done. The downside is that it takes a bit of trial and error to adjust the lines the proper length initially. I personally use double braid lines as they are easier to work with, but this is just a matter of choice. Use Nylon lines.
If you use the above arrangement, you'll want to keep a second set of dock lines on the boat for use when you are away from your home dock (you need these in any case so you can double up lines when a bad storm comes).
On spring lines, since my boat does not have midship cleats, I have added these to the genoa tracks (Shaefer or Garhauer designs will work). By placing these movable cleats in the proper place, I can place my spring lines such that no matter which way the wind blows, the spring lines don't pull against lifeline stanchions (which over time could cause leaks to develop at the base). Because of the angle of the spring lines relative to the genoa tracks, loading is similar to what the sheets apply, so, in my opinion, strength of the track arrangement is not an issue.
Finally, tie your stern lines so they cross (unless there is something for them to hang up on)....i.e. from port dock cleat/piling to starboard boat stern cleat. Opposite for the other stern line. This will allow more up and down range to accommodate tide changes.
I find it easier to tie off the lines on the pilings at the correct length (has to accommodate tide and wind from all directions) and use the eye splice ends at the boat. In certain conditions, an eye splice loop can jump or work its way off the cleat unless you do the following: On the boat's cleat pass the eye splice loop through the center of the cleat and then around the horns of the cleat. Now the line can't work itself off the cleat no matter what. The advantage of this arrangement is that you never worry about adjusting lines...just place the eye splice loops properly on the cleat and you are done. The downside is that it takes a bit of trial and error to adjust the lines the proper length initially. I personally use double braid lines as they are easier to work with, but this is just a matter of choice. Use Nylon lines.
If you use the above arrangement, you'll want to keep a second set of dock lines on the boat for use when you are away from your home dock (you need these in any case so you can double up lines when a bad storm comes).
On spring lines, since my boat does not have midship cleats, I have added these to the genoa tracks (Shaefer or Garhauer designs will work). By placing these movable cleats in the proper place, I can place my spring lines such that no matter which way the wind blows, the spring lines don't pull against lifeline stanchions (which over time could cause leaks to develop at the base). Because of the angle of the spring lines relative to the genoa tracks, loading is similar to what the sheets apply, so, in my opinion, strength of the track arrangement is not an issue.
Finally, tie your stern lines so they cross (unless there is something for them to hang up on)....i.e. from port dock cleat/piling to starboard boat stern cleat. Opposite for the other stern line. This will allow more up and down range to accommodate tide changes.
There's an important subtext here, that you're going in stern first.
Good for you! It takes sailors years to get it right, but it's vital.
Prepares you for dealing with swift current in Charleston, etc.
They back in to get a running start out of the slip. Attaboy!
Good for you! It takes sailors years to get it right, but it's vital.
Prepares you for dealing with swift current in Charleston, etc.
They back in to get a running start out of the slip. Attaboy!
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When in a marina I tie up bow in (towards the pier) because I'd rather look at the open water to the stern than the main dock whilst enjoying my evening libation. And a bit of privacy when the companionway is open
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