What is the best way of repairing rust pockets that have developed on the keel of my boat? It's a Catalina 27, 1977 vintage. All suggestions are requested.
Barry
Barry
Keel Hauled
- Thread starter BARRY3684
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I am with Ross on this one.
You can use a grinder with a rough grit sandpaper disc to remove a lot of the surface rust (wear eye protection and gloves). Treat what is not shiny with a phosphoric acid preparation like Naval Jelly or Ospho.
I think you would then fair (smooth) the keel with some epoxy and cloth and/OR barrier coat the whole area once smooth and clean, then paint it.
You can use a grinder with a rough grit sandpaper disc to remove a lot of the surface rust (wear eye protection and gloves). Treat what is not shiny with a phosphoric acid preparation like Naval Jelly or Ospho.
I think you would then fair (smooth) the keel with some epoxy and cloth and/OR barrier coat the whole area once smooth and clean, then paint it.
Ospho works great, clean it the best you can and ospho. I had great results on a tug boat and my gmc van(nicknamed "cancer wagon").
From the Interlux site....
(http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlinks/perfection_bulletin.pdf)
This is a good way to get the best possible surface. There are other products like Rustlok that can be used if you have some rusty spots from time to time.
10) Clean entire surface with Brushing Reducer 2333N to remove all surface dust or sanding residue.
(http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlinks/perfection_bulletin.pdf)
This is a good way to get the best possible surface. There are other products like Rustlok that can be used if you have some rusty spots from time to time.
SURFACE PREPARATION FOR BARE STEEL:
Painting bare steel surfaces with
Perfection usually involves more steps than painting fiberglass. This process is not difficult, but
more preparation is needed to achieve a good long lasting finish.
more preparation is needed to achieve a good long lasting finish.
1)
Prior to sandblasting it is imperative to solvent clean all surfaces with Interlux Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 for the removal
of grease and oil or other surface contaminants. Use a clean dry cloth, saturate with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 and scrub
surface thoroughly. Before Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 dries, wipe up completely with a clean dry cloth.
of grease and oil or other surface contaminants. Use a clean dry cloth, saturate with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 and scrub
surface thoroughly. Before Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 dries, wipe up completely with a clean dry cloth.
2)
Sandblast to a clean white surface with medium mesh silica sand or other nonmetallic blast media to provide a blast profile of
1.0-1.5 mils. Metal must be clean and bright with no residue remaining. After sandblasting remove all blast residue by using a
clean (oil and water contamination free) air line and by sweeping with a clean brush or broom.
1.0-1.5 mils. Metal must be clean and bright with no residue remaining. After sandblasting remove all blast residue by using a
clean (oil and water contamination free) air line and by sweeping with a clean brush or broom.
3)
If sandblasting is not possible, degrease with first with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 and clean dry cloths using the ‘Two Rag’
wipe down method. Disc grind metal with 36-60 grit abrasive discs to a uniform, clean, bright metal with a uniform 2-3 mil
anchor pattern. Avoid gouging and leaving deep sanding tracks. Vacuum clean the surface to remove sanding residue.
wipe down method. Disc grind metal with 36-60 grit abrasive discs to a uniform, clean, bright metal with a uniform 2-3 mil
anchor pattern. Avoid gouging and leaving deep sanding tracks. Vacuum clean the surface to remove sanding residue.
4)
Within one hour after sanding and cleaning. Apply one continuous coat of mixed Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25-
30% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355 on all metal surfaces to be primed. Allow to dry for 1 hour but not more than 24 hours. If you
go beyond this 24 hour period you will want to remove what you have applied and start over.
30% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355 on all metal surfaces to be primed. Allow to dry for 1 hour but not more than 24 hours. If you
go beyond this 24 hour period you will want to remove what you have applied and start over.
5)
Apply one coat of Epoxy Primekote 404/414 thinned 20-25% with Brushing Reducer 2333N by brush or roller. Allow to
dry overnight, and then sand it with 120-220 grit production sandpaper.
dry overnight, and then sand it with 120-220 grit production sandpaper.
6)
Clean entire surface with Brushing Reducer 2333N to remove all surface dust or sanding residue.
Product Bulletin No 410
4
7)
Fill all dents and gouges with Interfill Epoxy Filler YAV867 or Watertite Epoxy Filler YAV135, and allow it to dry thoroughly
before continuing.
before continuing.
8)
Sand repaired areas smooth with 120 grit production sandpaper until smooth. Clean the surface with Brushing Reducer
2333N to remove all surface dust or sanding residue.
2333N to remove all surface dust or sanding residue.
9)
Apply the second coat of Epoxy Primekote 404/414 thinned 20-25% with Brushing Reducer 2333N by brush or roller.
Allow to dry overnight, and then sand it with 220-320 grit production sandpaper.
Allow to dry overnight, and then sand it with 220-320 grit production sandpaper.
10) Clean entire surface with Brushing Reducer 2333N to remove all surface dust or sanding residue.
I owned a Catalina 27 some time ago and when I researched the specs for that boat, I thought all of them had about 2700 lbs of lead in their keel. Is your keel iron? If it is lead, what is producing the rust? I do know that some of the older Catalina 27s/25s had mild steel keel bolts (and many owners installed stainless bolts beside them -- a good idea). If your keel is lead and you have rust, it is possible that it is coming from your keel bolts. You may want to sort this out prior to fillling and fairing some rust spots.
Mfg Specs? Did not write it, just reported it!
Epoxy Primekote
*This product replaces Interlux Multithane Primer, which has been discontinued.
404 is NOT for underwater
Epoxy Primekote
*This product replaces Interlux Multithane Primer, which has been discontinued.
Epoxy Primekote (formerly Epoxy Barrier-Kote) is a multi-purpose two-part epoxy primer that sands freely without loading the sandpaper. Epoxy Primekote can be used with any topside paint but it is the recommended primer for use with two-part finishes such as Perfection and can also be overcoated with Toplac, Brightside, Interlux Yacht Enamel, Interdeck and Bilgekote. It is also used as part of a system to re-surface cracked and crazed gelcoat prior to the application of topside paint. Use Epoxy Primekote over clear epoxies as a sanding surfacer and to eliminate the effects of amine blush. Epoxy Primekote is bright white, which makes it ideal for priming bilge and locker areas. Epoxy Primekote can also be used in some underwater systems.
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