This is a follow up response to an earlier thread on O’day 22 keel cracks. I repaired a hull crack at the forward end of the keel where it meets the hull with Marine Tex. It has been in the water about four times since the repair. I check it every time to see if it is still holding and this last time it failed. The crack has reappeared in the same location. It looks like it is time for glass and epoxy. There were some previous posts about this also. One person used a triangular shaped piece of wood to extend the keel. I think I am going to try that approach too see if it works. One last thought, my boat sits on bunks when tailoring and the keel is unsupported. In a previous post, Lee say the manual for his 222 says to trailer with 80% of the weight on the keel and 20% on the bunks. I am going to modify my trailer to support the keel. I would appreciate any input on all or any of this. I have included a picture of the repair. The crack is inside the red area. To repair it, I made a 3/4" wide valley with a belt sander and filled it with Marine Tex. I added a little PC Marine apoxy puddy to fill in a little more and the used some black paint to make the crack more visible if "when" it reappeared. Thanks, Kevin
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John K
I am the original poster about the cracks. What I found might be different than your situation. I started grinding into my crack and found a previous repair. It seesm the repair was only done with epoxy resin and no fiberglass. The offending failed repair was about the diameter of a silver dollar. I went ahead and ground the repair out, enlarged it and feathered it. I then laid in 3 layers of fiberglass and resin from the inside, then 5 layers of resin with micro-ballons and fiberglass from the outside. I no longer have a leak. John
How??
Kevin - I have no answers - just another question - How do you get 80% of the weight on the keel? - I have a '78 O'Day 25 - it was new to me last winter - and I had it hauled out and it sat on a cradle - bunk style - the boat yard just placed it on the cradle - I found some lumber to place under the keel - but in no way can I lift up the keel = and some how figure out what would be 80% of the stress - How do you do that? -
Kevin - I have no answers - just another question - How do you get 80% of the weight on the keel? - I have a '78 O'Day 25 - it was new to me last winter - and I had it hauled out and it sat on a cradle - bunk style - the boat yard just placed it on the cradle - I found some lumber to place under the keel - but in no way can I lift up the keel = and some how figure out what would be 80% of the stress - How do you do that? -
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Kevin Walsh
Done the right way
John, it seems like that is the righ way to fix the problem. I am going to try it that way. The problem for me it that the inside is below the v berth/water storage area. I am not quite sure about how to do the inside part. I am going to have to open that up some how. I also noticed that I have stress cracks at the ends of the ridge between the water compartment and the forward end of the cabin deck. There has to be a raltion to the two. What is the deal with resin with micro-ballons? Thanks for all of the input.
John, it seems like that is the righ way to fix the problem. I am going to try it that way. The problem for me it that the inside is below the v berth/water storage area. I am not quite sure about how to do the inside part. I am going to have to open that up some how. I also noticed that I have stress cracks at the ends of the ridge between the water compartment and the forward end of the cabin deck. There has to be a raltion to the two. What is the deal with resin with micro-ballons? Thanks for all of the input.
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Kevin Walsh
The old 80/20 rule
Kevin, I think the 80/20 thing is a gide line. It won't end world piece as we know it if you don't get it exactly right. We put my brotherinlaw's O'22 on jack stands and then put a floor jack under the keel. We jacked it up untill we felt we had enough weight on it and put blocks under it and let it down. The idea is that the boat is sitting on the keel and the stands keep it from tipping over. On my trailer, I will weld a guide/rest in place under the keel and then add a thin layer of somthing like wood to so that it bears most of the weight. I might also put the support under the keel and jack it up and then weld it. I can only hope I get it close. Righ now, my keel is just dangleing. Anything I do will be an improvment. I hope this helps. Kevin
Kevin, I think the 80/20 thing is a gide line. It won't end world piece as we know it if you don't get it exactly right. We put my brotherinlaw's O'22 on jack stands and then put a floor jack under the keel. We jacked it up untill we felt we had enough weight on it and put blocks under it and let it down. The idea is that the boat is sitting on the keel and the stands keep it from tipping over. On my trailer, I will weld a guide/rest in place under the keel and then add a thin layer of somthing like wood to so that it bears most of the weight. I might also put the support under the keel and jack it up and then weld it. I can only hope I get it close. Righ now, my keel is just dangleing. Anything I do will be an improvment. I hope this helps. Kevin
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John K
Done the right way
The access from the top was easy for me since the previous owner had cut access to make the previous repair. I just took the plate off that he had covered it with. I added micro-balloons to the epoxy maily because working from below the resin would have been too runny to work very easily. Adding micro-balloons to the resin made it more putty-like.
The access from the top was easy for me since the previous owner had cut access to make the previous repair. I just took the plate off that he had covered it with. I added micro-balloons to the epoxy maily because working from below the resin would have been too runny to work very easily. Adding micro-balloons to the resin made it more putty-like.
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Kevin walsh
Re: Done the right way
John, where do you get Micro-balloons from? I sound like a good idea. Mine was also repaired previously although I think they may have used bondo because it sanded so easily. The marine tex was much harder. I looks like a big job that has to be done. do you know what the cost of repair was? Lastly, did you end up changign the shape of the hull in that area. That is since you put five layers below or is is feathered flush. Thanks Kevin
John, where do you get Micro-balloons from? I sound like a good idea. Mine was also repaired previously although I think they may have used bondo because it sanded so easily. The marine tex was much harder. I looks like a big job that has to be done. do you know what the cost of repair was? Lastly, did you end up changign the shape of the hull in that area. That is since you put five layers below or is is feathered flush. Thanks Kevin
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John K
Re: Done the right way
Kevin, The microballoons were provided by a friend at the club. I'm not sure where he got them but I would guess any Marine Supply Store carries them (if they carry repair materials). The cost of the repair was minimal. The resin was I think $15 and I used less than half of it. The glass was maybe $10.00. I had ground the previous repair out and totally through making in effect a 1.5 inch diameter hole. (it's somewhat startling to be grinding away at your hull and suddenly seeing the interior of the cabin!) I have faired out the reapair and it is flush with the rest of the bottom.
Kevin, The microballoons were provided by a friend at the club. I'm not sure where he got them but I would guess any Marine Supply Store carries them (if they carry repair materials). The cost of the repair was minimal. The resin was I think $15 and I used less than half of it. The glass was maybe $10.00. I had ground the previous repair out and totally through making in effect a 1.5 inch diameter hole. (it's somewhat startling to be grinding away at your hull and suddenly seeing the interior of the cabin!) I have faired out the reapair and it is flush with the rest of the bottom.
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Kevin Walsh
Afordable
Thanks John, That sounds very reasonable. I am going to photographicaly document mine and then make it available to people. Kevin
Thanks John, That sounds very reasonable. I am going to photographicaly document mine and then make it available to people. Kevin
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