Just bought a 95 h26 hasn't sailed in 2 years help.

Jun 8, 2004
278
Hunter 26 Illinois
Fred, until this summer I never lifted the mast and had my wife pull on the mainsheet, I just muscled it up by myself. Does this mean I'm getting older or wiser?
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,456
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Isaksp00;
Thank you so much for your offer to go over and help him. He does have sailing experience. I appreciate that so much. Gotta get ready to go out and have fun this morning. Weed eating and to chain saw some more on a tree split in half by lightening this past Sunday when a microburst happened over the house.

One other thing. I went kayaking on those new kayaks with my wife last Friday and now I call her the SS Minnow and me the SS Titanic as you can imagine with kayaks loose going down the river, water proof box with wallet and car keys floating away, her $850 glasses in the drink and above all got everything back plus those darn glasses. My left leg looked like a warzone. Had to have it xrayed but for some reason that was not done in the right place, it should have been my head.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,496
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Fred, until this summer I never lifted the mast and had my wife pull on the mainsheet, I just muscled it up by myself. Does this mean I'm getting older or wiser?
I did that the first time by myself on my Mac26S. The mast isn't heavy, but you don't realize just how little control you have should a gust come up or the boat rock. It was dumb luck and I never did it again. Bought the baby stays and mast raising kit.
 
Aug 15, 2016
21
Hunter H26 Long point
So I did some more digging in the boat I found baby stays. And a bunch of goodies.. all the lines, connections are strait. Found the gin pole and I see where it goes into the mast. Now the 2nd question is how do you use the cables and ropes to raise the mast?

Do you feed the main halyard to the Rope anchor Locker then up?
Will need explanation in laymans terms.
Steve
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I found out the boat is in Syracuse, not near me in the Phil. area. So I cannot help in person.
Post 17 from John has an excellent step-by-step description. Assuming the 26 is similar to the 23, you don't use the main halyard at all - the jib halyard attaches to what will end up as the top wire loop on the end of the gin pole (that is, the side toward the stern when the mast is lying down), and the main sheet tackle (that has the two fiddle blocks, giving like 8 to 1 mechanical advantage) goes from the bottom loop to the attachment in the bow locker. Once positioned correctly, tie the jib halyard firmly to a cleat on the mast - the idea is that the main sheet pulling forward at first, and then downward, on the "lower" side of the gin pole provides the pull on the (now fixed in place) jib halyard that in turn pulls up the mast. The gin pole is just a mechanism to provide a better angle, so the pull of the main sheet is more upwards at first than if that pole were not in place.
Those bridles or baby stays (whatever is the right term) support the mast so it won't sway to either side as it is raised. My 23 lacked these, and also did not come stock with a gin pole, but I made a homemade equivalent bridle - I had the mast sway to one side while lowering it once, and the mast extrusion pulled off the cast aluminum fitting at the bottom of the mast.
I don't know exactly how "supportive" the stock bridles are on the 26, but I'd recommend having at least on person help stabilize the mast from side to side - particularly as it is in the roughly 45 degree position. If your main sheet is long enough, it helps to run it back to a jib winch to help raise it. The 8-1 advantage from the main sheet tackle should provide plenty of power to do the actual lifting.
There are a few good videos showing mast raising/lowering for the 23, so I assume there are also some fro the 26 - do an Internet search and watch a few.
 
Last edited:
Jun 8, 2004
278
Hunter 26 Illinois
So I did some more digging in the boat I found baby stays. And a bunch of goodies.. all the lines, connections are strait. Found the gin pole and I see where it goes into the mast. Now the 2nd question is how do you use the cables and ropes to raise the mast?

Do you feed the main halyard to the Rope anchor Locker then up?
Will need explanation in laymans terms.
Steve
Steve, it sounds like you haven't downloaded the manual yet.
1.Read and print out my previous post.
2. As Dave stated, the mast is raised from the stern, so the mast bass attached and the mast is hanging off the stern on the cradle. Before attaching the mast to the base, my wife holds the mast and I go down on the parking lot. She lets the mast lift and I attach the VHF antenna that is removed for trailering.
3. The baby stays/mast raising bridles are attached to the mast first. There are reinforced holes that the hook fits in. To do this the wire is turned perpendicular to the mast away from the direction it will ultimately go. It is inserted and then turned 180 deg. and then the pelican hook is attached to the bottom of the stanchion (the metal pipe that holds the safety line).
4. This answer will be in the previous post.
5. The main "halyard" is the line (rope) that pulls the main sail up.
6. The main "sheet" is the line (rope) with all the blocks (pulleys) that is attached to the padeye (u-bolt) on the bottom of the boom and then attached to the padeye in the middle of the cockpit. The main halyard is not used in the mast raising process.
7. This answer is in the previous post. I'm not being a wise guy, I'm just avoiding typing it again.

We raise and lower the mast at least one or two times every month so we do this all the time. If you would like to talk to a reassuring voice before doing this, let me know and I'll get you my telephone number.
John
 
Aug 15, 2016
21
Hunter H26 Long point
John thank you for your detailed information I downloaded the PDF file however is pretty blurry and some of the instructions seem confusing...
Did this boat come with a water heater by chance I think I found one in the back by the battery bay.
 
Jun 8, 2004
278
Hunter 26 Illinois
Steve,
Here is the manual for the Hunter 260 which is much clearer to read: http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_260_90036430.pdf
The 260 has some differences which you will see, such as permanently attached mast bridles. I haven't seen a water heater on a 26 but previous owners do lots to things.
Keep the questions coming. If something written is confusing, ask. We've all done new things and better to ask than break something.
John
 
Aug 15, 2016
21
Hunter H26 Long point
Steve,
Here is the manual for the Hunter 260 which is much clearer to read: http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_260_90036430.pdf
The 260 has some differences which you will see, such as permanently attached mast bridles. I haven't seen a water heater on a 26 but previous owners do lots to things.
Keep the questions coming. If something written is confusing, ask. We've all done new things and better to ask than break something.
John
John thank you for your reply..
Seems that the lines in the mast are not connected anything... the line simply tied to the sais are they have hooks? And what about the mast topping lift.how does that attach to the Rope in the boom?
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,456
-na -NA Anywhere USA
The Hunter 260 was never designed for a water heater as the primary purpose was for trailering which that was taken into account when the boat was upgraded from the 26. I was asked that question.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
If you have any photos that would help, as it is tough to tell which exact lines you mean. For example, are these the halyards?

I am not familiar with the 260 rigging, but in the H23 the topping lift (which on my boat is part wire and part rope, which may not be the stock setup) attaches to a fitting on the aft end of the mast crane (the fitting on the masthead that sticks somewhat back past the mast). If yours is all rope (line) it must tie to some point on the mast head crane, run down to the aft end of the boom, and then likely through one of the sheaves (pulleys) in the fitting at the back of the boom. It would then run forward through the inside of the boom to the matching position sheave at the fore end (I am not sure it really matters which of the three sets of sheaves you use; I reserve the center one for the outhaul, and the two side ones for the topping lift and reefing line respectively). It then runs out the fore end of the boom, where I assume you have some sort of jam cleat (one per sheave) that is used to "lock" the line so it can't pull back, once the boom is in the right position.

Note that you use the topping lift to support the boom when the main is lowered, at a convenient height. Once you raise the main all the way, it should support the weight of the boom, and the topping lift should be loosened a bit so it is not pulling up on the boom (it should hang slightly slack, but not so much that is is swinging onto the side of the sail).
 
Jun 8, 2004
278
Hunter 26 Illinois
When you say the lines in the mast, I assume you mean the jib and main halyards (the ropes that raise the sails). These should have shackles (see pictures) on the ends to attach to the sails. The other end that you pull on should always have a knot to keep it from slipping away from you. Referred to as the bitter end!
Theoretically the topping lift is supposed to go through the boom and I find that too much work. I have simply attached a snap shackle (see picture) to the end of the topping lift and snap it to the end of the boom. I now have a slightly different method so I can easily adjust the height for sailing, having the bimini out and to keep it from bopping me on the head! As stated above, you want some slack in the topping lift so it and the main sheet are not fighting each other. Once you get the mast switched around and all the lines and shrouds lined up on the boat, we'll want to help you get them sorted out and attached to the correct places. Then you will want to raise the mast at home the first time not at the marina. Then we'll have to get the mast set up correctly. This is time consuming but it does two things, it gets the boat in the best set up for sailing efficiently and helps to get you more familiar with the the way the boat works. I put it in the driveway in the most level spot and chock the wheels so it can't move, then I put my 4 foot level on the cabin top and level it fore and aft and then put a bottle jack under the low side to raise the trailer until the boat is level side to side and then check front to back. If you can do this while hooked to the hitch, that's great, but I have to take it off the hitch to make it level.
 

Attachments

Aug 15, 2016
21
Hunter H26 Long point
Thank you everyone for your replies and phone calls.... after a long two days the boatis finally in the water... now the next question is modernizing the jib-sheet system seems pretty tacky with no blocks or quick release cleats... also is there a way to Greece the swing Keel it seems pretty hard going up and down and sometimes it takes a little bit of wiggling...
 

Attachments

  • Like
Likes: whatfiero
Jun 8, 2004
10,456
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Yes you can attach hardware to the leading top areas of the cabin where the cleats are as there is an aluminum plate encapsulated in the fiberglass. Look at the H26 and 260 boat information with photos if you will research the boat information on this forum for ideas and then if you want to get back with me I will be glad to help as I gave you my number. The rest is up to you sir
 
Jun 8, 2004
278
Hunter 26 Illinois
Hey! Congratulations on getting on the water! We have a furlex, it has a snap shackle at each end and is very easy to use. Yes, the swing centerboard is a bit of work getting up, but I've never had difficulty lowering it. Maybe you can dive down and feel or see the whole centerboard and see if it has some issues or something growing on it. We are always in fresh water so don't have anything growing on it.