Jib halyard s
- Thread starter groundhogyh
- Start date
Ric
I have thought of Dynex as i plan to renew my rigging for next season. I
haven't heard much bad about it including the price.
I have thought of Dynex as i plan to renew my rigging for next season. I
haven't heard much bad about it including the price.
Actually, your cartoon helped a great deal. I was having a hard time understanding how you were increasing the leverage to 2:1, but I can see that now. Do they make up the sails with the length of non-twist line or is that something you have your sail maker do? If you, what type of line? Thanks, again. Maybe if I had some of that rum to begin with I would have understood. 
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
ric-maxfield.net
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
ric-maxfield.net
Brian,
I brought in a speaker to our yacht club a couple of months back and he did a whole presentation on using synthetic rigging. He's a multihull racer and rigs all kinds of boats. He says that with being able to do the rigging yourself the cost is equal to stainless, but lighter and there's less stress when the rigging lines loosen and tighten as you tack back and forth. That really breaks down the stainless. It's also much easier when you're trailer sailing. You don't have to worry about the stiffness.
One of the guys at my yacht club rigged his boat with synthetic, but used the less expensive line that hasn't been heated to reduce the stretch. While it's only a 18 foot boat, it made a big difference and he loves it. By not using the Dynex Dux he had to go back and re-tighten the rigging several times over a couple of week period, to deal with the stretch, but it finally settled down. Our speaker talked about doing the same thing as it saves a considerable amount of money.
Just more new stuff to learn.
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
ric-maxfield.net
I brought in a speaker to our yacht club a couple of months back and he did a whole presentation on using synthetic rigging. He's a multihull racer and rigs all kinds of boats. He says that with being able to do the rigging yourself the cost is equal to stainless, but lighter and there's less stress when the rigging lines loosen and tighten as you tack back and forth. That really breaks down the stainless. It's also much easier when you're trailer sailing. You don't have to worry about the stiffness.
One of the guys at my yacht club rigged his boat with synthetic, but used the less expensive line that hasn't been heated to reduce the stretch. While it's only a 18 foot boat, it made a big difference and he loves it. By not using the Dynex Dux he had to go back and re-tighten the rigging several times over a couple of week period, to deal with the stretch, but it finally settled down. Our speaker talked about doing the same thing as it saves a considerable amount of money.
Just more new stuff to learn.
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
ric-maxfield.net
Hi,
I normally dont post suggestions until i have them more thought-out.
Anyway, In the art of sailing, i am still a beginner.
I posted the cartoon.....
I am still thinking about it. Any help thinking this out is appreciated.
Questions I Have:
-If the storm jib is your final sail up, why would you wish to have it a furler?
-Is there any reason that you would wish to furl your storm jib after it is hoisted?
If you have a normal twin groove drum style furler, you can put on progressively smaller head sails before the weather gets really really bad. Will it still be safe/comfortable to go forward to progressively take down the 150% to hoist the %100%. Go forward to take down the 100% to put up the 60%?
Is there any reason at all to have small code-zero furler equipment?
Maybe the original idea is the best and saves me money on not specifiying the anti-twist line?
Thanks,
groundhog
I normally dont post suggestions until i have them more thought-out.
Anyway, In the art of sailing, i am still a beginner.
I posted the cartoon.....
I am still thinking about it. Any help thinking this out is appreciated.
Questions I Have:
-If the storm jib is your final sail up, why would you wish to have it a furler?
-Is there any reason that you would wish to furl your storm jib after it is hoisted?
If you have a normal twin groove drum style furler, you can put on progressively smaller head sails before the weather gets really really bad. Will it still be safe/comfortable to go forward to progressively take down the 150% to hoist the %100%. Go forward to take down the 100% to put up the 60%?
Is there any reason at all to have small code-zero furler equipment?
Maybe the original idea is the best and saves me money on not specifiying the anti-twist line?
Thanks,
groundhog
Roy
The picture of the "ready bag" for the storm jib made me realize that what you were describing was a project that I spent some time on last spring. What I intended was to hoist the storm jib flying, as from your ready bag. I wanted to move the storm jib back, thinking it would better balance the reefed main, and installed backing and a pad eye on the fore deck a bit behind the main deck cleat. I had a mast fitting made up, complete with tangs for running backstays, and determined where it should be placed. Before I installed the fitting I hoisted a block to that location and secured it with some lines, and then tried to raise the storm jib flying. I was unable to control the sail. Headed into the wind, it was plastered against the shrouds and when I turned downwind the loose sheets and clew wanted to brain me. This was just a normal day, maybe 15 knots or less,probably less, I can't remember, but made me realize that in serious conditions this would very difficult. You might try it with one of your jibs, though if it's a hanked sail, watch they don't put an eye out.
There probably is a way to do it, perhaps hoisting in a sleeve, but it might be better if the luff is supported by a stay.
Craig V1519
The picture of the "ready bag" for the storm jib made me realize that what you were describing was a project that I spent some time on last spring. What I intended was to hoist the storm jib flying, as from your ready bag. I wanted to move the storm jib back, thinking it would better balance the reefed main, and installed backing and a pad eye on the fore deck a bit behind the main deck cleat. I had a mast fitting made up, complete with tangs for running backstays, and determined where it should be placed. Before I installed the fitting I hoisted a block to that location and secured it with some lines, and then tried to raise the storm jib flying. I was unable to control the sail. Headed into the wind, it was plastered against the shrouds and when I turned downwind the loose sheets and clew wanted to brain me. This was just a normal day, maybe 15 knots or less,probably less, I can't remember, but made me realize that in serious conditions this would very difficult. You might try it with one of your jibs, though if it's a hanked sail, watch they don't put an eye out.
There probably is a way to do it, perhaps hoisting in a sleeve, but it might be better if the luff is supported by a stay.
Craig V1519
My previous post may not have been clear. It was during the hoist that the sail could not be controlled. Craig