My answer is for a Proctor Series I mast (gold-coloured)
There're two halyards: One for the jib and one for the main. Each halyard is external to the mast and runs up over a forward sheave and back down an aft sheave, so there are four sheaves in total.
There's also a spinnaker halyard attachment on the forward part of the mast head.
Has anyone converted to internal halyards? This would leave one forward and one aft sheave as surplus .... I wonder if the mast head could be modified without major surgery ...?
I converted to internal halyards a couple years ago. It's been nice having the extra halyards. I use one for a topping lift (sometimes) or to just move the boom out of the way during cocktail hour. Usually they simply sit as backups to the main and jib halyards.
The conversion wasn't difficult, but running the halyards through the mast was challenging. I used fish tape and a lot of patience. You want to make sure you are running them on the correct side of any of the internal braces. I had cut slots in the top of the mast at the time to run an LED anchor light, which allowed me to see as I fished the lines up. I layer the mast on whichever side I was working on, so that the line was forced down by gravity. Even with all the prep, it still took a couple hours with a helper to get all the lines run. I like the idea of having the backups if something should ever happen.
I also have the spinnaker block attached and fly a chute when I have enough crew on board.
I took my smallest jib down to annapolis friday to get converted from hanks to furlerl foil (yes, remember how much of a fight i put up about converting to furler? I was wrong. you were right. Yes i can change my mind. Im glad you won the fight. Life is better in the front of my boat.).
He suggests something new that he has been doing.
Instead of putting the apporox 30% (60-68 sq ft) storm jib on the foil, he puts a high tech line on the sail. It wont go on the foil.
It sits in a ready bag up front. If things get dicey, you just furl up the genoa. Hoist the storm sail on the 2nd halyard and crank the hell out of it. Kind of makes an alternate forestay and you never have to go up front.
Any alternate easy ideas how I can still do this without serious mast modifications?
Running the lines through the mast really wasn't a major mast modification. The work was actually quite easy, just time consuming. I'm happy to send more detailed info with photos if desired. You don't have to do both sides if you don't want.
I also have a furled, I just haven't used it for about 3 years. However, having the furled would make the second jib halyard even more of a necessity. With it I could haul up a smaller sail on the furler and drop the bigge one at the same time (provided I had the crew). I could also run double headsails.
Shoot me an email off group and I'll write everything up, including parts list and photos. I did everything with a dremel, drill, riveting tool and some 4200 fast cure. A little fish tape to fish the lines and we are done.
Bella - v2620
J dot hunter9999 at yahoo dot com
I do have the Selden mast. I'm not sure what the considerations would be for the Proctor mast. Probably need to understand the internal configuration and wall thickness.
It might be easier to do with the mast stepped if you have 2 people. You would definitely have gravity on your side and the line would fall where it naturally should if the boat wasn't rocking. You would need someone at the bottom with some kind of wire that could catch the line and pull it through.
I uploaded a photo to the Photos section under Bella V2620. Its probably on the last page.
I cut 4 slots in the mast about 10 feet above deck on either side. I spaced them vertically by about 1 foot, and I separated them apart by a few inches. The photo shows only one side, but the opposite side of the mast looks the same. The only exception is that the slots on the other side are lower than those on the side showing. My thought was to have all of the slots at different heights thus reducing the potential loss of strength by having all of the slots at the same point. I'm not sure if its sound thinking, but we've been out in 45 kts and she is still standing.
The slots are about 1 3/4 inches x 5/8 inch. Make them as small as possible to accommodate the exit plate. I cut the slots with my Dremel, then cleaned up the edges. Once the slots are cut, drill the four holes for the rivets and mount the plates with 4200 Fast Cure. Concerned about the bond, sealing and corrosion, I contacted West Marine about mounting the stainless steel plates to an aluminum mast. They suggested using a generous amount of 4200. Since there is no stress on the plates (the line just slides through them), There is no need for heavy duty fasteners.
Before I installed the plates I fished the line through with fish tape (the mast was unstepped). It took a little while, but nothing major. I did it myself the first time because I was mounting an anchor light and had a small hole drilled in the top for the wires at the time. The hole allowed me to see what I was doing. I rotated the mast into various positions to guide the line to the correct side of the various internal structures. Once the line was at the top of the mast, I fished it over the correct sheave and out the top.
Once the lines were fished through I wrapped them in plastic wrap (like Suran wrap) and slid the plates over them and into place. I then applied the 4200 and riveted them into place. The plastic wrap keep the lines from getting 4200 on them. Once the plates are in place it is difficult to see inside the mast and fish the line through. So, it is important to fish the lines through first.
If I were doing this on a stepped mast, I would drop the lines down from the sheave to the plates. In theory, if the boat were not swaying, the lines should drop where you need them. Get a wire hangar to grab the lines and pull them through the slots.
Schaefer Exit Plate SC3466
M 4200 Fast Cure
I hope that helps. We've enjoyed having the extra lines handy. Although they are not used often, I like the idea of having backups.
You should know by now that you can't do any of this off line.
There are too many of us want to hear more on just about every topic. I have a Proctor also, but my mast is down and easier to work on. I would be interested to see how you handled the turning blocks at the bottom of the mast.
Hi Ric - I don't have turning blocks at the bottom of the mast as my lines are not run aft to the cockpit. I've been considering the change, but haven't made the leap yet. Too much sailing and not enough boat work over the summer. I was considering attaching a heavy duty pad eye to the mast at the height needed for the turning blocks. However, I'm concerned about the stress on the mast. Then again, perhaps its not that much different than putting a bail at the base and attaching blocks to that? Any thoughts?
Either way, I wouldn't think the turning blocks would be an issues for running the lines through the mast. They come out about 10 feet above the deck, leaving room to route them to a turning block.
Just an update on this thread, Post Annapolis boat show...
The ready-bag concept I discribed turns out to be a first step towards what we have seen with the code-zero furler and soft high tech line. Some high dollar racers have each sail with its own furler and a non-metal luff. They just unsnap the clew and halyard and throw it down below. then snap on another sail with the same equipment and un furl it.
Oh Sorry, forgot..
The new H2 will, I believe travel through the inside mast. So the slots and dremmel tool activities described earlier are still needed. Just dont have to convert the existing mast head sheeves for this task.
Sounds very interesting for the parts that I was able to follow. Do you have any links or pictures for the ready bag concept so I can understand all the details. I'm planning on using synthetic instead of steel for my rigging and it sounds like this would go well with that.
s/v Blue Max
I will eventually post drawings n pics ( as i will of everything ).
I will try to make up a quick sketch and post a pdf maybe.
Let you know.
(but if you dont understand what I was saying.... you need to study more...lol)