This has been my first season as a boat owner. I've really been enjoying my O'Day 222 all summer. It's time to think about bringing it out( the end of next month , but I'm starting to loose sleep already). I have a roll-off trailer and want to try to take it out myself. I have a public ramp and a four wheeled drive truck. I have never done this before. What should I be considering?
It's that time...............
- Thread starter Kurt Myers
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Hauling your boat
A few suggestions: First, check the ramp out carefully a day or two ahead of time. You need to know the water depth (at low tide), the condition of the ramp between the low tide and high tide lines (available traction), where the end of the ramp is and whether or not there is a drop-off beyond the end (so you don't back the trailer over the edge). You should also practice maneuvering the tow vehicle and trailer in reverse on a deserted parking lot. It will pay off when you're at the top of the ramp. Get help, preferably from someone who owns a trailerable sailboat (powerboaters don't do it the same way). Review the procedures with your assistant and agree on who does what and when. A checklist helps. Haul the boat on a weekday if you can, so you can take your time. Make sure your tires have the proper pressure and the wheel bearings are well packed with grease. Have all your trailering gear handy... stern tie-downs, mast-lowering rig, wheel chocks, etc. A hose and a source of fresh water are handy for washing the boat down. Bring a bucket or "earmuffs" to flush the outboard, as well as a scrub brush and some clothes you can get dirty in. On the fateful day, position the trailer close to the ramp. If your trailer has an extendable tongue, use it (it will help keep your truck's tires out of the water). Check the ramp for excess weeds and clear them away. Go aboard the boat, attach docklines at bow and stern, raise the centerboard if you can, bring the boat alongside the leeward side of the dock and tie off with some slack in the lines. Back the trailer slowly into the water until it is just deep enough for the boat to float on. Set the parking brake and chock the front wheel on the drivers side. Maneuver the boat onto the trailer. Clip the bow strap into the towing eye and winch the boat tight onto the trailer. Be careful, because if the boat hangs up somewhere you could rip the tow eye out. Check to make sure the boat is centered on the trailer, then pull it up the ramp slowly, steering the tow vehicle so the rear wheel misses the chock under the front wheel. At the top of the ramp, check again to make sure the boat is still centered. If not, back down the ramp until the boat just floats free, center it and pull up again. Once clear of the ramp, stop briefly and go back to make sure you haven't left anything behind on the ramp or the dock. Retract the extendable tongue. Attach rear tie-downs. Connect the trailer electrical wiring plug. Now comes the fun part...the washdown. I like to scrub the hull while it's still wet because the algae and any marine growth are still soft. If you have antifouling bottom paint, wear rain gear to protect your skin. Once the hull is clean, rinse the deck and topsides. Flush the outboard, either by submerging the lower unit in a bucket of fresh water or placing the "earmuff" over the water intake. Shut the fuel off, start the motor and let it run at a fast idle until it stops. Later when the engine is cool, remove the spark plugs, squeeze a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinder(s) and pull the starter cord slowly to turn the engine over and coat the cylinder walls with oil. Put the plugs back in loosely. You can check the gear oil in the lower unit later but don't wait too long in case there is water in it. There's still the matter of lowering the mast and securing the rig for towing, but I'll stop here. This is not an all-inclusive list but I think I hit the main points. I'm sure other people will have more things to add. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
A few suggestions: First, check the ramp out carefully a day or two ahead of time. You need to know the water depth (at low tide), the condition of the ramp between the low tide and high tide lines (available traction), where the end of the ramp is and whether or not there is a drop-off beyond the end (so you don't back the trailer over the edge). You should also practice maneuvering the tow vehicle and trailer in reverse on a deserted parking lot. It will pay off when you're at the top of the ramp. Get help, preferably from someone who owns a trailerable sailboat (powerboaters don't do it the same way). Review the procedures with your assistant and agree on who does what and when. A checklist helps. Haul the boat on a weekday if you can, so you can take your time. Make sure your tires have the proper pressure and the wheel bearings are well packed with grease. Have all your trailering gear handy... stern tie-downs, mast-lowering rig, wheel chocks, etc. A hose and a source of fresh water are handy for washing the boat down. Bring a bucket or "earmuffs" to flush the outboard, as well as a scrub brush and some clothes you can get dirty in. On the fateful day, position the trailer close to the ramp. If your trailer has an extendable tongue, use it (it will help keep your truck's tires out of the water). Check the ramp for excess weeds and clear them away. Go aboard the boat, attach docklines at bow and stern, raise the centerboard if you can, bring the boat alongside the leeward side of the dock and tie off with some slack in the lines. Back the trailer slowly into the water until it is just deep enough for the boat to float on. Set the parking brake and chock the front wheel on the drivers side. Maneuver the boat onto the trailer. Clip the bow strap into the towing eye and winch the boat tight onto the trailer. Be careful, because if the boat hangs up somewhere you could rip the tow eye out. Check to make sure the boat is centered on the trailer, then pull it up the ramp slowly, steering the tow vehicle so the rear wheel misses the chock under the front wheel. At the top of the ramp, check again to make sure the boat is still centered. If not, back down the ramp until the boat just floats free, center it and pull up again. Once clear of the ramp, stop briefly and go back to make sure you haven't left anything behind on the ramp or the dock. Retract the extendable tongue. Attach rear tie-downs. Connect the trailer electrical wiring plug. Now comes the fun part...the washdown. I like to scrub the hull while it's still wet because the algae and any marine growth are still soft. If you have antifouling bottom paint, wear rain gear to protect your skin. Once the hull is clean, rinse the deck and topsides. Flush the outboard, either by submerging the lower unit in a bucket of fresh water or placing the "earmuff" over the water intake. Shut the fuel off, start the motor and let it run at a fast idle until it stops. Later when the engine is cool, remove the spark plugs, squeeze a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinder(s) and pull the starter cord slowly to turn the engine over and coat the cylinder walls with oil. Put the plugs back in loosely. You can check the gear oil in the lower unit later but don't wait too long in case there is water in it. There's still the matter of lowering the mast and securing the rig for towing, but I'll stop here. This is not an all-inclusive list but I think I hit the main points. I'm sure other people will have more things to add. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
good tip
i used to trailor an o'day 23. my wife almost sank the truck one time so i came up with this technique. i position the truck so that it is at about a 45 degree angle to the trailor when the trailor is in the right position to haul the boat. what this does is cause the first motion of the truck/trailor/boat to be a partially lateral motion (rather than a direct dead ahead pull) once the entire rig is in motion, it is easy to straighten out and continue moving ahead. power is not the problem hauling the boat, traction is the main problem.
i used to trailor an o'day 23. my wife almost sank the truck one time so i came up with this technique. i position the truck so that it is at about a 45 degree angle to the trailor when the trailor is in the right position to haul the boat. what this does is cause the first motion of the truck/trailor/boat to be a partially lateral motion (rather than a direct dead ahead pull) once the entire rig is in motion, it is easy to straighten out and continue moving ahead. power is not the problem hauling the boat, traction is the main problem.
Just a few more tips
Peter hit most the points pretty well. I would add a few more. Take your time/don't rush. Especially before you hit the road. Disconnect the light connection before going in the water. It tends to blow out the bulbs. Check the lights. The sockets often corrode & need cleaning. Have spare lights. Also have a spare tire, jack & lug wrench for trailer. I've yet to have the truck wrench fit the trailer. Don't forget to use your parking brake. I disagree w/ MMO in cylinders. Use an engine fogging oil. Available in any marine or auto parts store. I've always pulled out boat trailers out straight & aligned w/ the truck. Did anyone mention a cold beer when it's all over?
Peter hit most the points pretty well. I would add a few more. Take your time/don't rush. Especially before you hit the road. Disconnect the light connection before going in the water. It tends to blow out the bulbs. Check the lights. The sockets often corrode & need cleaning. Have spare lights. Also have a spare tire, jack & lug wrench for trailer. I've yet to have the truck wrench fit the trailer. Don't forget to use your parking brake. I disagree w/ MMO in cylinders. Use an engine fogging oil. Available in any marine or auto parts store. I've always pulled out boat trailers out straight & aligned w/ the truck. Did anyone mention a cold beer when it's all over?
steering the trailer backwards
A little trick I learned after years of trailering my M26S. Place your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. Now turn and face towards the backward middle of the car/truck/van if you can see out through the back window. Now you can steer backward by pull the steering wheel to the same direction you want the trailer to turn. Works for me.
A little trick I learned after years of trailering my M26S. Place your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. Now turn and face towards the backward middle of the car/truck/van if you can see out through the back window. Now you can steer backward by pull the steering wheel to the same direction you want the trailer to turn. Works for me.
Pulling your boat for the season
I would add... 1. A digital camera - for those of us who seldom rig/derig, what might seem obvious when derigging could be a mystery in the spring. I even take pictures of the boat loaded and tied down, so I don't have to rethink tie-down strategies each time. 2. If you can't fully raise the centerboard prior to loading, then be sure it is free to kick up all the way - no lines fouling it etc.. You don't want it stuck partially down while winching her up onto the trailer. Unless you are driving less than a few blocks at low speed, be sure that everything is tied down well and with padding to avoid chafing. The affect of wind at 40mph on the road can seriously whip about everything not secured, and chafing from the vibration and bumpiness of the ride can be easily underestimated. 3. Lastly, if the ride will be more than a few miles at moderate speed, put anything loose down below, in the truck bed, or in the back of the SUV. (For open cockpit daysailers, this is more of an issue - don't be tempted to leave all the miscellaneous stuff bouncing around in the open cockpit unless you want to either lose it or have it damage the surface. Good luck - I'll be pulling mine as late as possible, but ultimately depends on when the utility company draws down the water level. Till then, enjoy!.
I would add... 1. A digital camera - for those of us who seldom rig/derig, what might seem obvious when derigging could be a mystery in the spring. I even take pictures of the boat loaded and tied down, so I don't have to rethink tie-down strategies each time. 2. If you can't fully raise the centerboard prior to loading, then be sure it is free to kick up all the way - no lines fouling it etc.. You don't want it stuck partially down while winching her up onto the trailer. Unless you are driving less than a few blocks at low speed, be sure that everything is tied down well and with padding to avoid chafing. The affect of wind at 40mph on the road can seriously whip about everything not secured, and chafing from the vibration and bumpiness of the ride can be easily underestimated. 3. Lastly, if the ride will be more than a few miles at moderate speed, put anything loose down below, in the truck bed, or in the back of the SUV. (For open cockpit daysailers, this is more of an issue - don't be tempted to leave all the miscellaneous stuff bouncing around in the open cockpit unless you want to either lose it or have it damage the surface. Good luck - I'll be pulling mine as late as possible, but ultimately depends on when the utility company draws down the water level. Till then, enjoy!.
Tying Things Down
When we trailer our O'Day 25, I always "wrap the mast". I use the plastic wrap that movers use (it looks like a big roll of saran wrap, it's available from U-Haul). I start at the back of the boat, and wrap all the mast, along with the standing rigging as I go forward. Make it extra thick since you'll be storing. Doing this, I've never had a single part work its way loose down the highway, and the rigging is all neatly arranged once I get whereever I'm going, instead of the jumbled mess I had the first two times I trailered it.
When we trailer our O'Day 25, I always "wrap the mast". I use the plastic wrap that movers use (it looks like a big roll of saran wrap, it's available from U-Haul). I start at the back of the boat, and wrap all the mast, along with the standing rigging as I go forward. Make it extra thick since you'll be storing. Doing this, I've never had a single part work its way loose down the highway, and the rigging is all neatly arranged once I get whereever I'm going, instead of the jumbled mess I had the first two times I trailered it.
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