It's almost within reach!

[Project_Mayhem]

I'm looking to lead lines aft for my main halyard and lazy jack on my O'Day 25. Once these are done I'll look at running reefing lines back. Here's a few questions I have:

-I have a halyard organizer plate (it's a little wider as it came from a Cat 25) as well as an old Schafer double turning block. Neither is installed yet. Which would be better?
-Is a double stacked deck organizer necessary due to the narrow gap between the hatch and hand rail?
-Is it necessary to install a cabin top winch or can the Jib winches be used?

I did find this old post with some excellent pictures. Any other tips or recommendations anyone has would be very much appreciated

 

[jssailem]

halyard organizer plate ....or ..... an old Schafer double turning block. Which would be better?

If the two lines come down to the mast base together (side by side) then you may be able to get a fair lead on both and the double block could be used. This would mean you need to terminate the lines next to each other on the cockpit end.

The Organizer, if compatible works with individual blocks so when lines get to the mast base separated by some distance the individual blocks assure a fair lead to turn the lines towards the cockpit.

Only you can tell the type of deck organizer you can use. You want to make the turns in such a way as to minimize friction.

If you eliminate friction then you may not need a winch on the cabin top. I know they look salty, but if not needed more funds are saved to the cruising kitty.

 

[Tally Ho]

That is a really tight squeeze between the hand rail and the spray hood.

my deck organizer is a double stack, 4 line organizer, but it would not work in that tight space. Maybe you could us the 2 sheaves at one end…maybe.

I have a lot more deck space to work with…

I would need to see photos of the block and the organizer to better understand your options.

Greg

 

[Project_Mayhem]

@Tally Ho It looks like only two double stacked sheaves are used in this pic of a 25. I'm pretty sure the bottom of the handrail was cut to make it fit. I'm willing to do the same if needed. What about using a double cheek block instead since it's unlikely that more than two clutches will fit on either side of the companionway?

Here's a pic of the C25 mast plate that I have. It sticks out about 1/2" further than normal on either side

The turning block looks like a version of this but doubled up and a bit crustier looking. I'd guess it's 30+ years old

 

[Tally Ho]

A double-stack cheek block might work.

With the base plate, you can use almost any block with a shackle for a turning block. You don’t need anything that bolts down. If you look at the photo I posted, my turning blocks have an extra shackle with a pin to secure it to the “posts” at my mast base. I think you would just shackle your blocks through the holes in the mast plate.

Greg

 

[Ward H]

@Project_Mayhem
Here are some pics from when I ran lines back on my O'day 25. The in board lines rubbed a little on the teak but not enough for me to cut some for clearance.
I ran the halyard and two reef lines back. Note I put a base of 3/4" starboard under the rope clutch that I undercut with a sander so it fit the curved deck better. Later I installed a downhaul for the main and ran that back. I installed a Harken 150 cam cleat to hold that line. You can see that in the last photo.
I could easily raise the main without a winch but when I needed to tension it I did use the jib winch.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

A double-stack cheek block might work.

With the base plate, you can use almost any block with a shackle for a turning block. You don’t need anything that bolts down. If you look at the photo I posted, my turning blocks have an extra shackle with a pin to secure it to the “posts” at my mast base. I think you would just shackle your blocks through the holes in the mast plate.

Greg

I'd prefer the base plate as it's less work, more versatile and the arrangement can easily be changed in the future. I wasn't sure if the angle of the line would have any significant impact. I assume your blocks flop around when there's no tension on the line? Have you notice any marks on your mast or deck from this?

Here are some pics from when I ran lines back on my O'day 25. The in board lines rubbed a little on the teak but not enough for me to cut some for clearance.

Wow that is a tight fit!

I ran the halyard and two reef lines back. Note I put a base of 3/4" starboard under the rope clutch that I undercut with a sander so it fit the curved deck better. Later I installed a downhaul for the main and ran that back. I installed a Harken 150 cam cleat to hold that line. You can see that in the last photo.

Wow I'm impressed you managed to squeeze four lines on one side. Out of curiosity, what kind of sander would you recommend for that curve? I was considering running a block of plastic sideways against a table saw

 

[Tally Ho]

I'd prefer the base plate as it's less work, more versatile and the arrangement can easily be changed in the future. I wasn't sure if the angle of the line would have any significant impact. I assume your blocks flop around when there's no tension on the line? Have you notice any marks on your mast or deck from this?

Yes, the blocks can move around if no tension on them, but I have never noticed it (or noticed marks on the mast…they would usually fall away from the mast).

I find the blocks attached to the mast base plate very versatile, no need for putting more holes in the deck, and “self aligning”.

Greg

 

[Ward H]

Out of curiosity, what kind of sander would you recommend for that curve? I was considering running a block of plastic sideways against a table saw

I used a belt sander with a coarse grit. Sanded with the drum end.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Thanks for the info guys! I just ordered a double stacked deck organizers with four sheaves