Issues removing cutless bearing.

[snoopy_]

Hello,

A new issue for me. A job that looked easy on youtube is turning out to be very difficult.

During a survey, I was told that my cutless bearing should be replaced as there was some movement in my shaft. After having the boat hauled out, I verified the movement. After some research, I decided to buy a StruPro tool to tackle this job, but it's not working out for me.

I was conscious in installing the tool, its position, and ensuring I was supplying equal tension as I attempted to push the current cutless bearing out, but it appears much more difficult than it should be.

I expected to use just a 1/2 ratchet, but after much resistance and little movement, I remove the tool to inspect progress. I then reattempted the operation and after 1/2 hour was only able to express about 1/8" of the bearing from the strut. After 1 1/2 hours I quit and called it a day.

I went back today and tried again using a 4' pipe as a leaver, and discovered that now it's out about an inch, but it is again very difficult. I again decided to stop, remove, and inspect. I then noticed that one of the collets is a little deformed.

I feel I am doing something very wrong. Now I can't rotate the shaft and the collets appear to be wedged into the strut. I expected the collets would be loose enough that I could pull or wiggle them out if necessary; they have holes drilled into them for that purpose. I was thinking about applying some heat to see if that might help move it along better. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[Rick486]

Are there set screws under the paint holding the cutlass bearing in?

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Photo Heavy)

Replacing a cutlass bearing is not a tough project but does require some thought. On some boats the bearing is inside the dead wood making replacement more of a task than when it's mounted in a strut. These instructions deal with replacing a strut mounted cutlass bearing with the prop shaft...

forums.sailboatowners.com

 

[DayDreamer41]

@Rick486 that would be my first question, as once it starts to move should keep moving pretty easily. Soak it in some Kroil I don't know that I would apply any heat though, Check for set screws in the bottom or side of the skeg.

 

[snoopy_]

No set screws. I checked for set screws a few months ago, but wanted to wait for the boat to be sodablasted to ensure I wasn't missing anything, as the strut was covered in bottom paint. None were found, and confirmed with other owners that the screws if present, would be on the starboard side of the strut.

I also tried some PB Blaster, soaking it a few weeks ago and again prior to attempting extraction. Nothing seems to make this job as easy as it should be. I did not think the bearing would require a 4' level to exert enough torque.

 

[Rick486]

No set screws. I checked for set screws a few months ago, but wanted to wait for the boat to be sodablasted to ensure I wasn't missing anything, as the strut was covered in bottom paint. None were found, and confirmed with other owners that the screws if present, would be on the starboard side of the strut.

I also tried some PB Blaster, soaking it a few weeks ago and again prior to attempting extraction. Nothing seems to make this job as easy as it should be. I did not think the bearing would require a 4' level to exert enough torque.

Prop Strut CP-26, C-27, C-270, C-28, C-30

Catalina Direct, publishers of the Catalina 22 and Catalina 25 Owner's Handbooks and the largest supplier of parts and Lewmar winches for Catalina Yachts in the country

www.catalinadirect.com

 

[DayDreamer41]

Just wondering, if there are no set screws what holds it in the strut?

I guess the next move would be to pull the shaft and cut the old cutless bearing with a hacksaw to relieve the grip it has on the strut.

 

[snoopy_]

Well, I fear pulling the shaft may be a pain too, as it does’t turn now. I may have tp push the bearing back in and see if the collets release. Then maybe the shaft will slide out... but I thought this was the preferred method to avoid interference with the rudder?

 

[DayDreamer41]

You could try something like this to reinforce the collet

Climax Metal 2C-125 Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Black Oxide Plating, 1-1/4" Bore Size, 2-1/16" OD, With 1/4-28 x 3/4 Set Screw, 1 Count: Tools Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Climax Metal 2C-125 Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Black Oxide Plating, 1-1/4" Bore Size, 2-1/16" OD, With 1/4-28 x 3/4 Set Screw, 1 Count: Tools Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Michael Davis]

It got a lot easier after I discovered that there really was two set screws that I hadn’t seen.

 

[snoopy_]

You could try something like this to reinforce the collet

Climax Metal 2C-125 Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Black Oxide Plating, 1-1/4" Bore Size, 2-1/16" OD, With 1/4-28 x 3/4 Set Screw, 1 Count: Tools Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Climax Metal 2C-125 Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Black Oxide Plating, 1-1/4" Bore Size, 2-1/16" OD, With 1/4-28 x 3/4 Set Screw, 1 Count: Tools Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

That is very interesting! I will buy a pair, they have to be better than the velcro straps that come with the tool.

Thanks,

 

[DayDreamer41]

The problem I see do that is by putting the clamp on the collets you will put too much pressure between the collets and the shaft essentially clamping the collets to the shaft thereby making more difficult. You really do need to find out what is binding between the strut and the bearing. The last one I did, it took alot of energy to start the bearing moving, but once it started it became easier and easier. The prop side of the bearing looks like its been beat on? can you tell us what thats about?

 

[snoopy_]

When I initially started to try to extract the bearing, I installed the new bearing on the prop side to account for spacing of the yoke of the tool, with the purpose that it would prevent the yoke from dropping and blocking the ability of the bearing to pass through the yoke. After a few rotations of the screws it appeared way to difficult, like we were compressing two wnds of a vice together. We loosened and removed the tool and found that the extracted bearing was cruahing on one side (starboard), so either the new bearing was not butted against the bearing tightly, so the yoke had dropped and was blocked, or we were not 100% straight and were pulling the tool to port side. Not sure

 

[weekendrken]

We tell customers not to rent our cutlass tools until the strut/bearing is properly prepped. They must agree that they've done that. That means removing setscrews, soaking the bearing/strut in penetrant several days, alternating heat (torch,) and cooling (to break free the corrosion.) Before removing, heating the strut to expand it.

And most important instruction of all -- if something is not going smoothly, STOP.
Getting a bigger hammer doesn't typically work well with anything on a boat.

Following those instructions diligently, we've never had a bearing that couldn't come out.

On smaller size struts sticky collets are common but they push out in reverse when installing the new bearing.
How would you use the holes in the collets to pull them out? The holes end up buried inside the strut.

You don't need a collar - you need to find out what's wrong - you should be able to remove it using a 1/2" socket handle.

You can use a 1" collar forward of the collets so that there's even push on the whole circumference (unlike with the horseshoe slot.)

 

[snoopy_]

In reading these replies and rereading the manual I suspect that the collets may not be making contact with the bearing sides but instead are wedged between the rubber. I will reverse the tool and see if I can push the bearing back in, remove the collets and inspect and start from zero.

 

[jonelli]

I’m thinking of doing this soon also for my next haul. The pics of the strut look like there should be set screws. but I don’t know.

 

[snoopy_]

Some boats have set screws, mine does not. I asked a few owners on facebook and all that repsonded did not have them either. I am guess it goes by model dates. CD’s website mentions ensuring they are removed.

cd

 

[jonelli]

Does the shaft come al the way out without dropping the rudder?

 

[jonelli]

One more stupid question, is the cutlass bearing the only bearing on the shaft? Meaning there’s nothing else in the stern tube, right?

 

[snoopy_]

Not sure, but I assume that’s why this method is talked about. i.e. it’s easier, n post alignment issues, etc.

 

[DayDreamer41]

One more stupid question, is the cutlass bearing the only bearing on the shaft? Meaning there’s nothing else in the stern tube, right?

No such thing ..........the only stupid question is the one not asked....the Cutlass bearing is the only prop end support the drive end is supported by the coupling which is bolted to the transmission output shaft coupling.