Is this pump rebuildable?

kloudie1 · Dec 10, 2015

Exactly correct, Rich. The seal in fact must not touch the impeller. It is a "lip seal" or sometimes an "oil seal" where the stationary lip touches the rotating shaft. The seal is "pressure energized" in that more pressure makes it seal harder.. That o-ring is in fact a "flinger" whose purpose is to fling any water getting by the seal out the weep holes in the case. Attached is an assembly drawing for the pump on a 3GFMF Yanmar. The bottom right corner shows the fits and stationary and rotating parts..
Yes the grooves are caused by "bits and grits" that get trapped between case and impeller. If they are shallow and small, no problem.

JamesG161 · Dec 11, 2015

JamesG161 said:
The rotating water seal (part #8) is pressure sealed against the rotating rubber impeller (part #10) and would not be expected to wear. The impeller is, in effect, a rotating rubber O-ring.

The O-Ring (part #4), which is a compression type stationary seal, seals the rotating water seal (part #8) against the rotating part of the shaft bearings (part#6) (inside race). Thus the rotating water seal (part #8) is sandwiched sealed between the o-ring and the impeller.

If you get a drip on the new pump, you should only need to buy parts 4, 8 , & 10 for a full seal for the bearings, but normally just 10 the impeller.

Wow was I very wrong.

Part 8 has a not shown spring on the exploded view.

kloudie1 said:
Exactly correct, Rich. The seal in fact must not touch the impeller. It is a "lip seal" or sometimes an "oil seal" where the stationary lip touches the rotating shaft. The seal is "pressure energized" in that more pressure makes it seal harder.. That o-ring is in fact a "flinger" whose purpose is to fling any water getting by the seal out the weep holes in the case.

kloudie1 is exactly right! OMG they used a seal that normally sees clean filtered oil.
This clears up for me, the little drip I got when engine is down. All Lip seals drip in static mode eventually!

As to the groove in the shaft, ever time I stir up silt , especially in reverse, fine particles grind away on the shaft/lip compression, from the unfiltered water intake. To think of it, the entire impeller to cam and cover plate does too.

A special thanks to Rich for patiently explaining Part 8.

Jim...

PS: The reason they are called LIP seals is cuz they S.....!

Nachofon · Nov 20, 2019

Stupid question: How did any of you guys manage to get the pulley off the pump? I am having a horrible time doing it.

JamesG161 · Nov 20, 2019

This water pump is on a Volvo Penta Engine, there is no pulley since is it engine gear driven.
_____
But you can go to Auto Zone or the like and borrow a pulley puller.
Jim...

Nachofon · Nov 21, 2019

Thanks Jim. My version of the engine (MD22L-B) has a Jabsco pump that has a pulley.
Will try Autozone.
Thanks

JamesG161 · Nov 21, 2019

Nachofon said:
My version of the engine (MD22L-B) has a Jabsco pump

My bad, I had not looked for the complete line.
Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Sea Water Pump: A MD22L-B, MD22P-B, TMD22-B, TMD22P-C - MarinePartsEurope.com

You will notice the tapered shaft going into the pulley. That is the issue, but remember you must press it back on the shaft too.

Ask at the Auto Zone about both ON and OFF.
Jim...

PS: Why do you want to remove the pulley?

Nachofon · Nov 21, 2019

Thanks Rich & Jim
Jim, I needed to remove the pulley in order to be able to then remove the shaft from the pump body. THe biggest problem was releasing the nut, since I did not have an automotive clamp. In the end, after liberal use of PB Balster, as suggested by Rich, I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley whilst I turned the nut. It worked!!. Removing the pulley after that was relatively painless. With the nut partially screwed, I tapped as Rich suggested and voila!, Pulley removed.
Next step was removing the shaft. Easily done with a Pulley Puller. Replaced one the bearings, and back to work. The only other step that was incredibly difficult (or I was particularly daft) was replacing the sealing ring on the water side of the housing. It will not fit flush. I attach a pic of the part of the pump where the ring goes.

Thanks for all your help!!!

JamesG161 · Nov 21, 2019

Nachofon said:
In the end, after liberal use of PB Balster, as suggested by Rich,

@Rich Stidger is my go to guy on most of stuff on my boat too. Glad he chimed in too.

Our boats are similar in many ways. Our engines are identical.
_____-

Nachofon said:
sealing ring on the water side of the housing. It will not fit flush

It must be the pump manufacturer. I am guessing again, but there is no sealing ring on mine.
Mine is a paper thin gasket.

Wait for Rich!

Jim...

Nachofon · Nov 21, 2019

Jim, The seal goes inside the water compartment. Between the body and the cover plate there is only a gadget.

Nachofon · Nov 21, 2019

Thanks Rich. I actually bought the part from Volvo Penta, but appreciate the ref. to the Jabsco part. I guess I will have to try your approach of using a deep socket that matches the diameter to press the sealing ring in to its place.

Nachofon · Nov 22, 2019

BTW, Rich, do you have the original part number for the Jabsco pump? I am having a hard time justifying the $600 for the original Volvo Penta replacement!!

Nachofon · Nov 22, 2019

Success. I think. Installed the pump, water is flowing and I think the sealing ring was properly seated. It did protrude maybe 1/2 mm in one area. Is this going to cause problems?

charles anthony · Nov 22, 2019

Make sure that the lip seal has a bronze or stainless garter spring, the standard oilseals do not and will corrode in contact with sea water.They are available here in theU.K. from Bearing Boys.

Nachofon · Nov 22, 2019

charles anthony said:
Make sure that the lip seal has a bronze or stainless garter spring, the standard oilseals do not and will corrode in contact with sea water.They are available here in theU.K. from Bearing Boys.

Yes it does, thanks. It is bronze. Bought it from Volvo, but I know depco has them too.

Nachofon · Nov 22, 2019

Rich Stidger said:
I think it might. But if it is pumping successfully now you only have two choices. First just run it and see if it fails. The failure would be either the impeller or the seal. Or you could pull it again and try to seat the seal more fully, but you have probably done that as best you can. It could be that there is some debris in the bottom of the seating area that is stopping the seal from full insertion. Alternately you could pull the pump, extract the shaft and bearing assembly, and then push out the seal from the back very carefully. Check the seal cavity and clean/polish it with a small wire brush. A Dremel tool is perfect for this if you have one. If you do this, before re-insertion I would measure the thickness of the seal and the depth of the seal cavity to be certain that it will fit without protrusion. This would eliminate the possibility that you have an incorrect seal. You would need a verier caliper to make this measurement accurately.

In any event I would immediately purchase another seal and a spare impeller. I would get the seal from Depco as I know that is the correct on for your pump.

Let me look. It may take me a few days. Volvo guards their parts interchangeability closely so that you need to buy their expensive parts. You should check with Depco for a Jabsco replacement. I know the last pump Ibought was about $350-400.

Thanks so much. Really appreciate it

Is this pump rebuildable?

.

Attachments

.

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

.

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

.

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

.

.

Attachments

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.