Iron your Sails...?

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Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
I've been playing around with some old sail material, making sail bags, duffel bags, and general repair and reinforcing on my sails...

In order to layout measure and cut my material I've been ironing it flat and smooth and it really seems to "crisp up" the material.. not burn, but reactivate the resin and tighten the weft and weave by flatening the threads...

I had read in the "Sailmakers Apprentice" that ironing is part of the original sailcloth preperation...

I'm thinking after repair and a good washing, I may iron the complete field of the sail to stiffen it up and bring it back to design shape and smoother airfoil rather than the wrinkly mess it is now...

I know Sail Care irons them as part of their referb process (large roller machines) but was wondering if anyone had taken the time to "hand iron" their sails into shape...?
 

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Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,164
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Go for it. Though it's hard to believe that it will repair damage already done by improper storage. ...................... oops, better not. after reading RichH's comments I'm taking his side... cuz... he knows about these things.
 
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Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
I'm hoping it can't hurt...?

Here's a bag I made out of the wrinkly material above....
 

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RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Absolutely do not 'iron' woven dacron (or any other) sail material.
There is no way to control even heating of the fibers and you will ultimately wind up with 'wavy' fabric.
During its manufacture, woven dacron sail fabric is 'ironed' (heat calendered) between very precisely heated and pressurized controlled rollers (mangles) and this sets the 'crimp' of the weave into a fixed structure ... there is no way you can imitate such with a hand iron, even on very old sails where the crimp locking structure will still be intact.

Sails can be 'refinished' by adding textile 'sizes' to aid in lessening the 'porosity' of the fabric but this isnt done at nearly the same temperature of 'ironing'.
If you want to remove wrinkles out of woven dacron ... on a windless day, spray them with warm water and simply let them dryout while raised. ;-)
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
I know a racing friend that irons his sails. He uses two ironing boards and he applies a resin as well. Takes practice but they come out looking new. What you cannot do with the iron is bring the shape back. If it is baggy when you start it will be a nice crisp baggy when you are done.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
"Baggyness" can easily be removed from a woven dacron sail .... all you have to do is readjust the luff 'boltrope'. The 3 strand luff boltrope becomes shorter and fatter every time you tension the luff, and that eventual 'shrinking' of the boltrope is what causes the sail to become 'baggy' and the point of maximum draft to move aft - aggressive heeling and 'weather helm'.
If there is an 'excess' amount of boltrope 'stored' at the headboard of the sail, then to reestablilsh the proper boltrope length, all you have to do is cut the sail twine on the luff near the head, and reset the 'preload' of the bolt-rope and resew its connection to the luff tape with sail twine. Normal boltrope preload 99% of the time (for sailing in 12-15kts of wind) is: the boltrope is 'shorter' than the luff dimension by 1" for every 11 ft. of luff length and then resew by hand (needle and palm with stout 'waxed sail twine').

Here's a method for *testing* to see if your boltrope has become 'shrunken', and also directions on HOW to RAISE a woven dacron boltrope so that the boltrope is properly 'stretched out' to its *design* length when raising a boltroped sail .... and which 95% of most 'cruising' sailors never do, ..... and then complain of 'baggy' sails and 'weather helm':
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=120970

If you have a woven dacron mainsail and are a sail 'tweaker', you really need to adjust or 'ease' that boltrope after every season of 'hard' sailing. Otherwise the perpetually shrinking boltrope is going to make your mainsail take on a over-drafted, 'baggy' and draft-aft shape.

In the 'old days', before the advent of relatively dimensionally stable woven dacron, most mainsails had a boltrope adjustment system (cleat or 'knots') external to the luff sleeve so that the sailor could routinely adjust for the correct boltrope tension.
Sailmakers now sell a lot more sails because the external boltrope adjustment is no longer provided ... typically because non-racing sailors never used this 'very important' sail shaping 'adjustment'.
Easing/adjusting the boltrope and then *properly raising* such a sail to 'stretch out' the boltrope, will 95% of the time restore the sail to its 'design' shape --- for less aggressive heeling, for minimal 'weather helm' and for having a 'fast' sail that 'points' very well.
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
I have a droopy boom on my Venture Cat...I noticed that last year sailing trying to "strech" or tighten the hayyard to pull the bag out tof the Luff...

I'll have to dig it out and look into the bolt rope to see if it's practical to cut loose and refasten/reshaping the sail...I do have the toolage and materials to properly refasten...
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
I have a droopy boom on my Venture Cat...I noticed that last year sailing trying to "strech" or tighten the hayyard to pull the bag out tof the Luff...

I'll have to dig it out and look into the bolt rope to see if it's practical to cut loose and refasten/reshaping the sail...I do have the toolage and materials to properly refasten...
Contact me by PM or email ... or contact a sail material supplier such as Jeff at www.sailriite.com before you do this. Send close up pics of the head and tack of the sail and precise 'as is' luff dimensions, as well as 'normal' wind and wave data for your sailing venue ..... BEFORE you do this as a DIY project, the 'first time'.
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Looked at it, at least on this little "Cat" sail, there is no "stored or extra" bolt rope at the head (to let out) but I'm thinking all I need to do is rip the binding twine, push out the bolt rope, slice in the appropriate extra length to the rope, strech out the luff and then "pull back" the appropriate "preload" and resew...

As much as the luff appears to be "bunched up" on the bolt rope I may have to add several inches to get proper preload...
 

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Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Just saw your reply after mine.. will get better pic and measurement and PM you for preload specs...

For the "as is" Luff dimension, is that strech the sail and measure head ring to tack ring...?

Should I measure the mast track as well...seemed like I had a foot or more to go at the top, if the luff/rope would stretch...
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Rich H sent you an e-mail...

Measured the luff "as is" it is 17'-8" and then measured the mast and found I have a full 19' from tack "pin" to botom of halyard pulley so lots of room to stretch the sail...

Just need to figure proper luff measurement.
 

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Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Not to get to far ahead, but I cut the rope loose on the tack end...and then peeled back and step spliced in another foot and a half of three strand to extend the luff rope...I have also cross sewn the strands to prevent unraveling...

I've pulled the rope back in the fuff tape a few inches, now just need a preload measurement to trim the rope and sew it back in...
 

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RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
The standard luff dimenion for this sail is 18.5 ft.
Your measurement (with old boltrope) is 17.8ft.
In the pic you sent me the luff tape, the covering for the boltrope, is severly 'wrinkled' - denoting significant boltrope shrinkage. Since this is (??) a boltrope in the the mast track arrangement, this 'wrinkling' will not allow the sail to properly 'shift' along the mast track ... lengthening the boltrope will ease also that wrinkling.

Standard luff dimensions and boltrope 'preload' for your boat is 18.5 ft. = 18.5/11 = 1.7 inches ..... the boltrope should be cut 1.7 inches SHORTER than whatever you measure with the luff 'unloaded' (slightly tensioned for the measurement).

If you are using a long splice, most certainly you should cross-sew the splice ends with stout waxed sail twine .... additional stitches through the luff tape sleeve and 'through' the boltrope is OK because the length of spliced addition is 'short'.

Rx: Unload the present boltrope and carefully measure the luff length; splice in the new section, subtract 1.7 inches of the 'as measured' luff length - that will be the 'unloaded' measurement for the 'adjusted boltrope' - 18Ft-6in (?) MINUS 1.7 inches. Resew the boltrope TO the sleeve with several X-stitches using very stout waxed sail twine, pulled VERY tight, etc. Use a blunt hard object and 'burnish' the twine stitching INTO the sleeve and boltrope. Since the splice is near/close to the tack you may consider to put a few X stitches across the spliced end in the same manner - through the sail fabric AND the boltrope ....'bury the stitches' in the fabric.
For the splice, Id slice a small hole/slit in the bottom of the sleeve near the tack and use more length of new spliced section than needed ... so that you can at a later time 'ease' the boltrope without having to 'redo' the splice.

Next time use DACRON 3 strand rope to make the splice or if you entirely replace the boltrope -- less stretchy and very predictable 'stretch'. Boltropes are made from dacron 3 strand, not nylon 3 strand. However, a short spliced addition of nylon 3 strand should make no difference in this current 'repair'.

When raising, follow the directions, etc. in "HOW TO RAISE A DACRON MAINSAIL" found in the sail trim forum to get the boat to 'dead fish neutral helm', etc. OR simply add 1.7" of stretch to the halyard after raising for sailing in 12-15kts. etc.

good luck. Enjoy the return to 'decent' sail shape of this mainsail.

hope this helps
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Thank you Rich this should help tremendously with sail shape...also confirms what I observed, that sail was a good foot short of full extention...where did you find the luff dimension for this boat...I searched a good bit of internet with no luck..?

It is a "bolt in mast" system and was a bear sliding up the track, even with wax and silicon spray...smoothing the luff sleave out will definetly help...

I think I followed your direction explicitly, I did the splice, the cross stich, have "extra" ready to tuck....this gives practical application and confirmation to what I had read/learned from E. Marino's "Sailmakers Apprentice" Thanks

The splice section I used came from the luff rope of another sail I have (trashed/for parts/material) It looked and felt to be the same makeup as the original luff rope...How can a person tell if it is/was dacron or nylon...?
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
A fairly accurate sail dimension data base can be found at: http://www.sailritesails.com/Search.aspx

To quickly tell the difference between dacron and nylon .... burn the material with match or cigarette lighter and denote the very distinctive 'smell'. A common 'trick' used in the textile industry.
Just melt/burn some known material and compare .... you wont forget those 'smells'.
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Cool..Thanks again...

If this works out on this little guy, I may attempt it on my PY sails..
 
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