Interior Varnish

jibes138 · Jan 16, 2015

O'Day changed the 34 to a 35 around 1985. So that boat has to be at least a 1984 or older. Interesting that my 35 has a teak and holly sole in the interior but that boat doesn't. I never knew it came without it. The cushions looks fine :>)

woodster · Jan 16, 2015

Coyote said:
I was bored finishing up my weekly work reports, so I ventured onto Craig's List to see what fine vessels were on offer.

I found a listing for a 1994 Oday 34',, and YES, I realize that Oday went out of business in 1989,, but that is how it was listed,,

and I agree the cushion fabric is dreadful!

The listing states that the interior is completely re-varnished with SEVEN coats of Epiphanes Gloss,,,

do we like this result? and is this a good idea???

cheers,
Coyote

well that does make it look warm inside not sure about the long term maintenance though

damauney · Jan 16, 2015

ODay Japan Corporation my have built it. As I understand it they have these molds plus some other ODay models.

Good winds
DaveM

njlarry · Jan 16, 2015

I have seen this boat before on yacht word without the gloss. Looks like someone updated the interior to look more contemporary. I like it but prefer the satin traditional look.
the fabric is a different story

Brian S · Jan 22, 2015

As far as the varnish goes, it's all what you like, I think. I like glossy varnished teak and mahogany up on deck. But down below, too much gloss might not be so good to me. The matte finish I've seen in many boats makes the wood look like cheap laminate, IMO. I went in to a big, expensive Jeanneau at a show 2 years ago, and the wood looked like grey, ugly laminate. I would never buy that particular boat. This past year, Jeanneau had updated the wood to a much nicer presentation. True varnish does a lot to warm up wood, due to its amber hue. I think I would prefer a satin varnish finish down below, with perhaps some strategic gloss here and there on trim and such. I like glossy tables. A true matte finish is just really bad IMO.

As for longevity, Epifanes is very good varnish. Down below, it will last a very long time, except in areas where people touch it frequently. Over the years, the varnish will soften and discolor, due skin oils, suntan lotion, etc, but it will take a long time.

Teak oil, applied in several coats, will start to create a warm, satin coating. It is much thinner than varnish, because it doesn't have as much resin solids. Allowing it to dry completely between coats allows for more build up. Since it doesn't have as much resin solids, I would expect it to wear, soften, and discolor more quickly in the frequently touched areas.

As for that fabric… well, that's why the textile industry makes so many different types and patterns

I wouldn't choose that particular fabric myself, but that's me

RichH · Jan 22, 2015

If the 'gloss' is too much for your tastes, go to hardware/paint store and get 'rotten-stone' and/or fine pumice and hand-rub the surface to get exactly what you desire

For more brilliant gloss .... flat sand with 2000 grit, then rottenstone + water (rub with clean BARE hand)
For semi-gloss .... rottenstone + oil (cloth)
For matt finish ... flat sand with 400/600 grit, then pumice + oil (cloth)

or you can mix the above for any surface effect you desire.
The 'harder you rub' the more heat is generated ... which helps to develop the glowing iridescent 'patina' of the wood surface under the coating.

Such is called 'finishing'; slopping on a coating is only the first step in the 'finishing' process whether you apply paint, varnish, shellac, or oil, etc.

jibes138 · Jan 23, 2015

I use Formby's Tung Oil and have always liked the look. Available at Lowes or maybe HD. It has some varnish resins in it but doesn't build up a thickness on the wood like a varnish does with multiple coats. It goes on like water with a rag. According to most information it is called a "wiping varnish" and is just varnish thinned out. But it goes on easy and looks good. Every couple years you wipe on another coat. Since it is intended to penetrate the wood you aren't supposed to apply it over a previous finish like varnish.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use

woodster · Jan 23, 2015

jibes138 said:
I use Formby's Tung Oil and have always liked the look. Available at Lowes or maybe HD. It has some varnish resins in it but doesn't build up a thickness on the wood like a varnish does with multiple coats. It goes on like water with a rag. According to most information it is called a "wiping varnish" and is just varnish thinned out. But it goes on easy and looks good. Every couple years you wipe on another coat. Since it is intended to penetrate the wood you aren't supposed to apply it over a previous finish like varnish.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use

actually that is a good choice along with watco teak oil as an alternate

RichH · Jan 23, 2015

woodster said:
actually that is a good choice along with watco teak oil as an alternate

or McCloskeys Tung Seal ... a varnish 'resinated' Tung Oil.

With the 'resin' component you have the choice of SUPER HIGH gloss if applied 'thick' and then hand rubbed; or, simply applied and wiped for a durable matt finish that wont oxidize over the long term and turn DARK as does teak oil. Its available with 'tints' so you can build up a color match between freshly coated and 'old' finishes.

When applied multi-coat & 'thick' and allowed to fully cure, flat sanded and then hand rubbed (w/ rottenstone and water), it will produce a gloss that far exceeds that of the most brilliant varnish jobs, and almost to the 'dazzle' of prime lacquer jobs or even 'french polishing' (w/ shellac). None of these methods should be used for exterior work.

woodster · Jan 23, 2015

RichH said:
or McCloskeys Tung Seal ... a varnish 'resinated' Tung Oil.

With the 'resin' component you have the choice of SUPER HIGH gloss if applied 'thick' and then hand rubbed; or, simply applied and wiped for a durable matt finish that wont oxidize over the long term and turn DARK as does teak oil. Its available with 'tints' so you can build up a color match between freshly coated and 'old' finishes.

When applied multi-coat & 'thick' and allowed to fully cure, flat sanded and then hand rubbed (w/ rottenstone and water), it will produce a gloss that far exceeds that of the most brilliant varnish jobs, and almost to the 'dazzle' of prime lacquer jobs or even 'french polishing' (w/ shellac). None of these methods should be used for exterior work.

that is also a good product and there Man O War varnish is great too

Capt jgw · Jan 23, 2015

I'm redoing the interior of my 1969 Columbia 36. I painted the bulkheads (ugly fake teak laminate) off white to match the fiberglass, and stripped the 45 year old oil off the real teak and refinished with semi-gloss varnish. I've seen other boats done with gloss and satin, didn't like either one. The semi has the better balance IMO. On deck though, full gloss looks and holds up better.

justsomeguy · Jan 23, 2015

Has anyone tried shellac on their interior? I have it on a small bulkhead, and it's stood up well.

Or is that just crazy talk? :stirthepot:

RichH · Jan 23, 2015

any water on a shellac finish will turn it 'milky', unless over-coated with a 'non-permeable to water' coating (something akin to 'barrier coatings' .... ugh!)

About the only shellac finishes you see these days are in museums, or on musical instruments ... and the musician has signed a promissory note not to drool while playing

Do websearch: "french + polish" OR "french + polishing".

The effects of a prime shellac job (french polishing) develops what is known as 'chatoyancy' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chatoyancy) an exceptional iridescent GLOW of the wood beneath the coating.

justsomeguy · Jan 23, 2015

RichH said:
any water on a shellac finish will turn it 'milky', unless over-coated with a 'non-permeable to water' coating (something akin to 'barrier coatings' .... ugh!)

About the only shellac finishes you see these days are in museums, or on musical instruments ... and the musician has signed a promissory note not to drool while playing

Do websearch: "french + polish" OR "french + polishing".

You're sure about this?

RichH · Jan 23, 2015

Sure am, one of my Dad's 'hobbies' was the restoration of museum grade furniture.

look up "chatoyancy" .... only place you see this nowadays is museums, private jet aircraft, and mega-mega yachts.

justsomeguy · Jan 23, 2015

Um, I've been using shellac for years, and these terms are not a mystery to me.

I'm looking for real-world, salt air experiences from the group here, if there's any to be had beyond my own.

But go ahead, double down.

RichH · Jan 23, 2015

If youre experienced with shellac then you already know the problems with shellac when it becomes wetted with water, or alcohol.
Specifically inside a boat anywhere near salt water, the micro-crystals (the inevitable 'boat dust' from salt spray, etc.) will absorb water which is vulnerable to turn the shellac surface 'milky' over time.
Not a problem if one likes 'yellow / orange' or/and one intends to continually repair and recoat. Entirely your choice.

justsomeguy · Jan 23, 2015

Thanks. Anyone else, other than bonhomme Richard?

Interior Varnish

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