Greetings, Shortly I am going to install a spinnaker rig on my Hunter 25.5 and have a few questions about dimensions for any of you Hunter 25.5 owners that already are fortunate enough to have a spinnaker rig. 1. What is the length of the pole, and if you don’t know the length how do I size it? Do I make it just long enough to go from the mast to a little bit past the forestay? 2. What are the guy lengths? 3. How do you bring the guys to the winches? Do you use a block attached at the stern to the toe rail? I think for economy reasons right now I am going to use the genoa lead blocks for the guys as well, until I save up enough to really complete the job. Can anyone tell me if that is a bad idea? Thanks a bunch.
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Anthony Bavuso
Uphaul/Downhaul
Another question, regarding the uphaul and downhaul. I have seen alot of boats with these lines run aft to the cockpit and have figured out how I am going to do it. But unfortunately I doubt I will be able to afford the modifications. So in the mean time I figure that I will tie a line around the spreaders down to the pole for the uphaul. And tie another line from the pole to the forestay attachment plate. Will this work? What I mean is, do I really need adjustable control of the uphaul/downhaul? for just casual sailing? And for that matter why do any boats need adjustable control of the uphaul/downhaul?
Another question, regarding the uphaul and downhaul. I have seen alot of boats with these lines run aft to the cockpit and have figured out how I am going to do it. But unfortunately I doubt I will be able to afford the modifications. So in the mean time I figure that I will tie a line around the spreaders down to the pole for the uphaul. And tie another line from the pole to the forestay attachment plate. Will this work? What I mean is, do I really need adjustable control of the uphaul/downhaul? for just casual sailing? And for that matter why do any boats need adjustable control of the uphaul/downhaul?
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Cliff Ruckstuhl
Which Spinnaker!
Are you going with a regular or a cruising spinnaker? That will make all the difference in what gear you need. The pole length is the J so it would be 10'. Do you need a pole? I have one that I don't use. Cliff
Are you going with a regular or a cruising spinnaker? That will make all the difference in what gear you need. The pole length is the J so it would be 10'. Do you need a pole? I have one that I don't use. Cliff
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Dick Vance
Spinnaker Stuff
Anthony, You definitely need a topping lift and downhaul for the pole. Trying to use the spreader would invite a broken spreader! You can pop rivet a fitting for the topping lift block on the front of the mast. You will need a separate spinnaker halyard lead thru a block hung from the u-shaped bail in front of the masthead about 12-15' or so up. The big trick is managing the extra lines (spinn. halyard; topping lift & downhaul). On my 25.5, I installed a triple deck organizer on the port side, mirroring the position of the double organizer on starboard used by the main and jib halyards. Theres a metal backing plate underneath the fiberglass. This will help you lead the lines aft. I installed another winch (Lewmar 8) and triple stopper on the cabin top on the port side for this. The spinn. sheets/guys need to be about 50'. they should be lead thru a block on the aft end of the toe rail. The jib blocks are way too far forward for effective control and sail trim. A couple of "twing" lines at about the end of the jib block tracks are very helpful in controlling the sail. These consist of small blocks for the sheet to pass thru, lead to a small block on the toe rail and then to a cam cleat on the coaming. Take a look at the rigging on some other boats and see how the lines and hardware are configured. If you're going to fly a true spinnaker, you really need the proper hardware and rigging. These sails have a lot of power and can get out of control in a hurry! If you're going for an assymetrical, or cruising chute, hardware needs are minimal. A couple of blocks at the stern and a block at the bow for the tack line is about all you need. Dick Vance H-25.5 "Honey Bear"
Anthony, You definitely need a topping lift and downhaul for the pole. Trying to use the spreader would invite a broken spreader! You can pop rivet a fitting for the topping lift block on the front of the mast. You will need a separate spinnaker halyard lead thru a block hung from the u-shaped bail in front of the masthead about 12-15' or so up. The big trick is managing the extra lines (spinn. halyard; topping lift & downhaul). On my 25.5, I installed a triple deck organizer on the port side, mirroring the position of the double organizer on starboard used by the main and jib halyards. Theres a metal backing plate underneath the fiberglass. This will help you lead the lines aft. I installed another winch (Lewmar 8) and triple stopper on the cabin top on the port side for this. The spinn. sheets/guys need to be about 50'. they should be lead thru a block on the aft end of the toe rail. The jib blocks are way too far forward for effective control and sail trim. A couple of "twing" lines at about the end of the jib block tracks are very helpful in controlling the sail. These consist of small blocks for the sheet to pass thru, lead to a small block on the toe rail and then to a cam cleat on the coaming. Take a look at the rigging on some other boats and see how the lines and hardware are configured. If you're going to fly a true spinnaker, you really need the proper hardware and rigging. These sails have a lot of power and can get out of control in a hurry! If you're going for an assymetrical, or cruising chute, hardware needs are minimal. A couple of blocks at the stern and a block at the bow for the tack line is about all you need. Dick Vance H-25.5 "Honey Bear"
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Dick Vance
correction to Spinnaker Stuff
Anthony, The part about "..12-15' up" applies to the topping lift block, not the spinnaker halyard!!! Its late, so pardon the mistake. I wish there was a way for us to edit our posts when we make a miscue. Dick
Anthony, The part about "..12-15' up" applies to the topping lift block, not the spinnaker halyard!!! Its late, so pardon the mistake. I wish there was a way for us to edit our posts when we make a miscue. Dick
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Anthony Bavuso
Radial Spinnaker
Thanks a bunch for all your input. I am going to fly a radial spinnaker NOT a cruising chute. So I need a pole etc... I have a roller furling system for the genoa so the halyard intended for the genoa I am going to use for the spinnaker. Is that a bad idea? About install the deck organizer... You just drill a hole through the deck and plate and the use a screw to fasten the hardware? As opposed to drilling a hole and using a nut and bolt? The problem with the nut and bolt is the hull liner on the inside becomes a problem. Thanks again for all your help. About install the deck organizer... You just drill a hole through the deck and plate and the use a screw to fasten the hardware? As opposed to drilling a hole and using a nut and bolt? The problem with the nut and bolt is the hull liner on the inside becomes a problem. Thanks again for all your help. Would it be resonable to install the uphaul block with the mast up? I dunno how difficult the mast is to step but it does not look easy. Also about drilling holes into the mast, how do I insure that I am not going to drill into my electrical wires or anything else important inside?
Thanks a bunch for all your input. I am going to fly a radial spinnaker NOT a cruising chute. So I need a pole etc... I have a roller furling system for the genoa so the halyard intended for the genoa I am going to use for the spinnaker. Is that a bad idea? About install the deck organizer... You just drill a hole through the deck and plate and the use a screw to fasten the hardware? As opposed to drilling a hole and using a nut and bolt? The problem with the nut and bolt is the hull liner on the inside becomes a problem. Thanks again for all your help. About install the deck organizer... You just drill a hole through the deck and plate and the use a screw to fasten the hardware? As opposed to drilling a hole and using a nut and bolt? The problem with the nut and bolt is the hull liner on the inside becomes a problem. Thanks again for all your help. Would it be resonable to install the uphaul block with the mast up? I dunno how difficult the mast is to step but it does not look easy. Also about drilling holes into the mast, how do I insure that I am not going to drill into my electrical wires or anything else important inside?
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Anthony Bavuso
Metal backing plate
Dick, I called Hunter in an attempt to get some drawings with the dimensions of the metal plate you refer to and was told that they don't keep blueprints that far back. So I was wondering if you could give me the dimensions of that plate. I am going to need to install two pieces of hardware onto the deck. An eye an inch or two directly in front of the mast for the downhaul and the line organizer on the port side mirrored from the starboard. Does the plate extend to cover both areas? How deep into the deck is it? Also how did you get your uphaul from the mast to the line organizer? I am thinking of a cheek block mounted on the front mast at the bottom but since the line organizer is a few inches behind the front of the mast there will be a small angle backward on the block and I am afraid the line will chafe. Do you have any pictures? If so can you send me some copies? Thanks a bunch for your help.
Dick, I called Hunter in an attempt to get some drawings with the dimensions of the metal plate you refer to and was told that they don't keep blueprints that far back. So I was wondering if you could give me the dimensions of that plate. I am going to need to install two pieces of hardware onto the deck. An eye an inch or two directly in front of the mast for the downhaul and the line organizer on the port side mirrored from the starboard. Does the plate extend to cover both areas? How deep into the deck is it? Also how did you get your uphaul from the mast to the line organizer? I am thinking of a cheek block mounted on the front mast at the bottom but since the line organizer is a few inches behind the front of the mast there will be a small angle backward on the block and I am afraid the line will chafe. Do you have any pictures? If so can you send me some copies? Thanks a bunch for your help.
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Dick Vance
Hardware
Anthony, Are you planning on racing with the spinnaker? If so, you really don't want to skimp on the setup as inadequate rigging can cost valuable time in setting and dropping the spinnaker. The rig needs to be sound even if just cruising. The jib halyard simply will not work! Spinnakers fly out front of the forestay and using the jib halyard would cross the stay causing chafe and potential wraps around the forestay. The spinnaker is normally set with the jib up, allowing you to get it hoisted and rigging adjusted before it fills completely. The jib is then lowered. When dousing the chute, the jib is first raised, again blocking and depowering the chute before dropping. It can be done without the jib by blanking the chute with the main during hoist and drop but this is very slow and inefficient and dicey in gusty winds. A separate halyard led from a block at the masthead bail in front of the forestay is a must! Mount an organizer (go triple!) on the port side by locating the mirror position from the halyard organizer on the starboard side. This will put you over the metal backing plate. I don't have a diagram of the exact location of the plate but its there on my boat! The best method is to drill and tap the holes for bolts. This requires the proper drill and tap tools and someone who knows how to do it. I didn't so I drilled and thru bolted mine using large oversized washers for the nuts inside the cabin. Again, it has worked fine with no problems for about 7 years of hard use. lines from the organizer (halyard, topping lift and need to be led aft through a triple stopper on the port side cabin top. Again, locate a mirror position from the double stopper on the starboard side used by the main and jib halyards. There is a metal backing plate so your choices again are drill and tap or thru-bolt. Locating an extra winch there is important as one person can then handle the halyard hoist, adjust the pole and trim the sail from that position. You don't have to have an expensive self tailer, just mount a cam cleat to use when using this winch to trim the sheet/guy. This is especially useful when sailing shorthanded. In light air, two of us can handle the spinnaker but normally need a minimum of three. Four is even better when racing to avoid too much multi-tasking! I simply used an 8' step ladder to mount a padeye on the front of the mast for the topping lift block. To avoid drilling into wiring inside the mast use a short drill bit and take it slow. I put a small cheek block at the base of the mast to lead the topping lift halyard to the triple organizer. Chafe isn't a problem. For the downhaul, I attached a small block to the metal base plate at the foot of the mast. It'd be better farther out on deck but I decided against drilling the holes for the padeye. I may do that soon as it would be better located out farther. I'm not aware of a metal backing underneath the deck in front of the mast but the glass is pretty thick in that area and thru-bolting with an interior backing plate should be fine. As for pole length, check your local racing rules if you're going to race. Many clubs limit pole length to the J, which is 10' for the 25.5. If no restriction or if not racing, a longer pole, about 12', will project the sail out farther but you can't do a dip pole jibe without detaching the pole from the mast but you can simply doing an end for end pole switch. The dip pole method is faster and easier but end for end works too. I would suggest looking at other rigs and, if possible, go sailing with someone with a spinnaker to see how it all goes together. There is also an excellent video, "Spinnaker Sailing", if you can find a copy. I think it may be out of production but I recommend it if you can find one. Flying the chute in a nice breeze is exhilirating and so much faster than even a large jib poled out or reaching! Its an exciting skill to acquire. I'm no expert but have been using mine for club racing for about 7 years now. There;s a couple pics of Honey Bear flying hers in the Boats Section under owner photos. Do you already have the spinnaker or are you shopping? I hope this is not too confusing!! I don't have any pictures of the rigging and hardware I can show you but if I can get some in the near future I'll send them to you. Dick
Anthony, Are you planning on racing with the spinnaker? If so, you really don't want to skimp on the setup as inadequate rigging can cost valuable time in setting and dropping the spinnaker. The rig needs to be sound even if just cruising. The jib halyard simply will not work! Spinnakers fly out front of the forestay and using the jib halyard would cross the stay causing chafe and potential wraps around the forestay. The spinnaker is normally set with the jib up, allowing you to get it hoisted and rigging adjusted before it fills completely. The jib is then lowered. When dousing the chute, the jib is first raised, again blocking and depowering the chute before dropping. It can be done without the jib by blanking the chute with the main during hoist and drop but this is very slow and inefficient and dicey in gusty winds. A separate halyard led from a block at the masthead bail in front of the forestay is a must! Mount an organizer (go triple!) on the port side by locating the mirror position from the halyard organizer on the starboard side. This will put you over the metal backing plate. I don't have a diagram of the exact location of the plate but its there on my boat! The best method is to drill and tap the holes for bolts. This requires the proper drill and tap tools and someone who knows how to do it. I didn't so I drilled and thru bolted mine using large oversized washers for the nuts inside the cabin. Again, it has worked fine with no problems for about 7 years of hard use. lines from the organizer (halyard, topping lift and need to be led aft through a triple stopper on the port side cabin top. Again, locate a mirror position from the double stopper on the starboard side used by the main and jib halyards. There is a metal backing plate so your choices again are drill and tap or thru-bolt. Locating an extra winch there is important as one person can then handle the halyard hoist, adjust the pole and trim the sail from that position. You don't have to have an expensive self tailer, just mount a cam cleat to use when using this winch to trim the sheet/guy. This is especially useful when sailing shorthanded. In light air, two of us can handle the spinnaker but normally need a minimum of three. Four is even better when racing to avoid too much multi-tasking! I simply used an 8' step ladder to mount a padeye on the front of the mast for the topping lift block. To avoid drilling into wiring inside the mast use a short drill bit and take it slow. I put a small cheek block at the base of the mast to lead the topping lift halyard to the triple organizer. Chafe isn't a problem. For the downhaul, I attached a small block to the metal base plate at the foot of the mast. It'd be better farther out on deck but I decided against drilling the holes for the padeye. I may do that soon as it would be better located out farther. I'm not aware of a metal backing underneath the deck in front of the mast but the glass is pretty thick in that area and thru-bolting with an interior backing plate should be fine. As for pole length, check your local racing rules if you're going to race. Many clubs limit pole length to the J, which is 10' for the 25.5. If no restriction or if not racing, a longer pole, about 12', will project the sail out farther but you can't do a dip pole jibe without detaching the pole from the mast but you can simply doing an end for end pole switch. The dip pole method is faster and easier but end for end works too. I would suggest looking at other rigs and, if possible, go sailing with someone with a spinnaker to see how it all goes together. There is also an excellent video, "Spinnaker Sailing", if you can find a copy. I think it may be out of production but I recommend it if you can find one. Flying the chute in a nice breeze is exhilirating and so much faster than even a large jib poled out or reaching! Its an exciting skill to acquire. I'm no expert but have been using mine for club racing for about 7 years now. There;s a couple pics of Honey Bear flying hers in the Boats Section under owner photos. Do you already have the spinnaker or are you shopping? I hope this is not too confusing!! I don't have any pictures of the rigging and hardware I can show you but if I can get some in the near future I'll send them to you. Dick
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Anthony Bavuso
spinnaker halyard
Dick, you make a good point about the spinnaker halyard needing to be in front of the forestay. I guess I hadn’t thought that all the way through. Thanks. I went yesterday and looked at my masthead bail and as far as I can tell the only part that extends beyond the stay is a metal ring. Is your bail similar? How did you attach the halyard block? Did you run the halyard internal? If so how did you get the halyard from the block into the mast? Right now I plan only cruising with the spinnaker but I would like to eventually get into racing. Currently I am planning on borrowing a spinnaker from another boat and to save up my pennies to buy my own. Thanks a bunch.
Dick, you make a good point about the spinnaker halyard needing to be in front of the forestay. I guess I hadn’t thought that all the way through. Thanks. I went yesterday and looked at my masthead bail and as far as I can tell the only part that extends beyond the stay is a metal ring. Is your bail similar? How did you attach the halyard block? Did you run the halyard internal? If so how did you get the halyard from the block into the mast? Right now I plan only cruising with the spinnaker but I would like to eventually get into racing. Currently I am planning on borrowing a spinnaker from another boat and to save up my pennies to buy my own. Thanks a bunch.
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Anthony Bavuso
Running Rigging
Here is what I am considering for the spinnaker running rigging. I am also going to replace my jib sheet. Does this look about right to you'all? Recommendations? Spinnaker Halyard: StaSetX 3/8” Spinnaker Sheets: StaSet 5/16” Uphaul/downhaul: StaSet 1/4” Jib Sheet: StaSet 3/8”
Here is what I am considering for the spinnaker running rigging. I am also going to replace my jib sheet. Does this look about right to you'all? Recommendations? Spinnaker Halyard: StaSetX 3/8” Spinnaker Sheets: StaSet 5/16” Uphaul/downhaul: StaSet 1/4” Jib Sheet: StaSet 3/8”
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Dick Vance
More About Rigging
Anthony, I attached a Schafer 5 Series swivel block to the bail and led the halyard outside the mast to a halyard lift block at the base of the mast then to the triple organizer. You can also run it down thru the masthead sheave and out the sheave at the base if you don't use the second masthead sheave for an extra jib halyard. For your running rigging, I'd go with the Sta-Set X for the spin. sheets tho regular Sta-Set is ok. I would also use 5/16" Sta-Set for the topping lift and downhaul not only for the extra strength but 1/4" probably wouldn't hold in the line stoppers. Dick
Anthony, I attached a Schafer 5 Series swivel block to the bail and led the halyard outside the mast to a halyard lift block at the base of the mast then to the triple organizer. You can also run it down thru the masthead sheave and out the sheave at the base if you don't use the second masthead sheave for an extra jib halyard. For your running rigging, I'd go with the Sta-Set X for the spin. sheets tho regular Sta-Set is ok. I would also use 5/16" Sta-Set for the topping lift and downhaul not only for the extra strength but 1/4" probably wouldn't hold in the line stoppers. Dick
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