Installing Flush Table Hinges

[Hermit Scott]

I am making a new table for the cabin. The original one was heavy, to big to easily get around and not easy to put away.
This one is about a foot shorter and 4" narrower. It is semi-permanently mounted to the bulkhead where the original table was. It folds in half. While it's folded in half the table has fiddles. When it is opened it is flat, and the fiddles will be facing down on that opened half.
The table is formica on 3/4" plywood. The outter rails are teak screwed on. The hinges in the pic are the ones I ordered. They are 4" long and will open 360 degrees(so they don't support themselves).

Does anyone have flush table hinges? or ever installed any? How is the table leaf usually supported?
To make the hinges flush, what is the usual method for cutting the grooves for them to sit down in? I guess I need to know how are things usually inlaid in a table top?
Just to be a little clearer, the two hinges will be inlaid on the centerline of the table top in the third picture. Allowing it to fold and look like the table in the second picture.

 

[sailingdog]

You'll need to rout out a space for the hinge halves in each side of the table. That is how they're done on the table on my boat which, like your design has fiddles when the table is folded and half-open and is flat when fully opened.

You can see the Telstar 28 salon table with recessed hinges in this photo:

And the table folded in this photo:

I am making a new table for the cabin. The original one was heavy, to big to easily get around and not easy to put away.
This one is about a foot shorter and 4" narrower. It is semi-permanently mounted to the bulkhead where the original table was. It folds in half. While it's folded in half the table has fiddles. When it is opened it is flat, and the fiddles will be facing down on that opened half.
The table is formica on 3/4" plywood. The outter rails are teak screwed on. The hinges in the pic are the ones I ordered. They are 4" long and will open 360 degrees(so they don't support themselves).

Does anyone have flush table hinges? or ever installed any? How is the table leaf usually supported?
To make the hinges flush, what is the usual method for cutting the grooves for them to sit down in? I guess I need to know how are things usually inlaid in a table top?

 

[Ross]

Tomorrow.

 

[CarlN]

Sugatsune has some really elegant concealed hinges - in stainless no less. You need to be good with a chisel -

http://www.sugatsune.com/products/ProductDetails.cfm?CATID=7&SUBCATID=9&PRODUCTID=R

They also have some simpler ones that might be enough. Look through the catalog.

In either case you need support. The simplest is a couple of fold out supports - hinged to table legs. They should come out at more than half of the width of the table leaf. More complicated would be something that slides out from the frame.

Carl

 

[Manny]

Hermit, got a router?

You can easily inlay those hinges if you have a router. You can do it by hand but it works better if you make a jig for the router to match the cutout. The beauty of routing out for the hinges you are showing is there is no 90 degree bends so no chiseling corners. I am in the process of making hatches for my boat and had to mortise out spots for the hinges to make them flush. I did it by hand since they really aren't too visible and these hatches are only "temporary" anyway. I covered the area with masking tape and then used (very important) a sharpie to mark the outline of the hinges. If you use pen or pencil you'll never see the lines while using the router. I used a straight cutting bit (don't know the proper name) set to the correct depth and worked back and forth starting from the outer edge. Hopefully the pictures will below will show the progression. If you are going to do it by hand, definitely practice on on scrap first and also make sure you have plenty of light.

Manny

 

[Ross]

Re: Hermit, got a router?

Hermit, You will need to make a template to guide your router. You will need a top bearing hinge morticing bit.
If you have a bandsaw with a 1/8 inch blade then with a sharp knife mark the outline of the hinge on a foot square of hard wood and saw out the hinge shape and check for hinge fit. Clamp the template in place on some scrap and set the router for the thickness of the template plus the thickness of the hinge and run a practice mortice. It the fit is perfect then you can do the table. Be sure to mark the centerline of the hinge on the template.

 

[Hermit Scott]

Saildog-Does your table rely on the thick pieces of wood for the support, or do those hinges have parts that extend into the table so they are metal on metal when the table is folded out. I am glad to see a table another color than white. I thought I was the only one that would have something different.
Ross-If I can't figure any way that this leaf will be supported with the table it's self, then I will do as you suggested yesterday, having a leg that pivots out to hold the table up.
CarlF-I already bought those hinges I have a picture of,(BTW that pic is from defender). I have lots of time but little money so I have to live with these now. I did consider the hinges you show in your post, but I don't think they fit the purpose what I am trying to do as well as these. These are stainless though.

Also I am not finished sanding and finishing these things. I did have to use teak that was already used for the other table though, so there are some patches in them.
I do have a router Ross. And I have straight bits with bearings on them. I will make templates until I get them to cut it as close as I can.

 

[sailingdog]

The hinges are much the same as the ones you have pictured in the OP. The majority of the support is the wood itself, and probably would not work if the table did not have the fiddle running along the inboard edge.

Saildog-Does your table rely on the thick pieces of wood for the support, or do those hinges have parts that extend into the table so they are metal on metal when the table is folded out. I am glad to see a table another color than white. I thought I was the only one that would have something different.
Ross-If I can't figure any way that this leaf will be supported with the table it's self, then I will do as you suggested yesterday, having a leg that pivots out to hold the table up.
CarlF-I already bought those hinges I have a picture of,(BTW that pic is from defender). I have lots of time but little money so I have to live with these now. I did consider the hinges you show in your post, but I don't think they fit the purpose what I am trying to do as well as these. These are stainless though.

Also I am not finished sanding and finishing these things. I did have to use teak that was already used for the other table though, so there are some patches in them.
I do have a router Ross. And I have straight bits with bearings on them. I will make templates until I get them to cut it as close as I can.

 

[Ross]

Hermit, sometimes drop leaf tables have piece that pivots out of the way into the apron but will also swing 90 degrees to extend under both leaves. the pivoting piece is almost as long as both leaves are wide.

 

[Hermit Scott]

I have the table in the boat now. Still haven't put finish on, or the leaf. Still waiting on the flush hinges. This table is removable. The leg is the original and is hinged with a peg sticking out of the bottom so it stay put on the floor. There's a hole in the carpet to accomodate the leg, it also helps keep the carpet in place.
This project was important to make the salon more functional. Two more projects for the cabin; hot water and a radio.