Installing a seaside pumpout

[c_witch]

Okie dokie,

Here are some photo's of the steps taken to install my seaside
pump out. It is
located in the aft section of the first locker in the port quarter berth. All
fittings are bronze. The thru hull and locking nut are embedded in 3M 5200
sealant adhesive. Once set I will cut away any excess on the outside of the
hull. NOTICE how I have the handle arranged so that it is down and facing to the
aft. This hopefully will prevent any accidental opening of the valve, even
though we will have a vented loop in the head. According to the paper with the
macerator there should be no particulate larger then 1/8''. I located it here as
the switch is right behind it in the new electrical panel so that I can open the
locker open the valve and turn on the pump. When I hear or see the tank is empty
I can easy flip the switch off and close the valve once again. With a vented
loop I could leave the valve open but will feel better with it closed.

Happy sailing,
Brina

PS like most we will use fresh water for the first flush tank and after that use
sea water and then flush with fresh water when the boat is out of the water or
we're away for any length of time.

 

[Merlin Clark]

Nice work Brina! That shiney new bronze always looks good!
Might want to figure a way to hook a padlock around the handle and to an eye or something so that the valve can be locked in the close position for your travels down here. The overboard head or tank discharge in one of the USCGs favorite targets.

 

[c_witch]

Over Board discharge

Hiee Merlinuxo,

From what I've read in US waters it is ok as long as one is off the coast by a minimum of 3nm. I any case we would be off the coast any where from 10 to 20nm and therefor out of US territorial waters. Here in Canada it is a minimum of ~7nm actually in Km. Once I get the hose's connected I will have to fill the holding tank with water and test it to see how it works.

We will have a vented loop on the bulkhead adjacent to the MSD so that having the valve open really isn't an issue. I'd just prefer to have it closed when not pumping overboard.

I've been in the process now for the last week and a half of downloading cm-93 charts of the entire world, all just so I can get charts of the caribbean sea and gulf of mexico. Hopefully another 3 or 4 days will do it. The whole bundle is 53gb compressed.

How has your sailing been this year? BTW how is your rigging done up? Ours is all nicopressed, but I am thinking of getting all new standing rigging and going from 1/8'' to 5/16 and having it swaged or using sta-lok's.

Brina

 

[Merlin Clark]

Hi Brina,
Our sailing has been thin, just too danged hot but this weekend we are supposed to have a break.
My rigging is swagged. On the size, 5/16s is pretty heavy duty and will add a lot of weight aloft. Not to mention costs 2-3 times what 3/16" does. My 5,000 lb boat with 310 sq ft of sail area (100% jib) is rigged 3/16" all around.
I PM'd you on some other stuff.
Sure hope you get to stop in here during your trip. We've got dock space and cold beer!

 

[c_witch]

OMG I did say 5/16''

HIee Merlinuxo,

LOL I did say 5/16 inch when what I meant was 3/16, just a case of my fingers not co-operating with my thoughts . I will have a look at the PM's as I have not noticed any thing there.

Brina

 

[Merlin Clark]

"fingers not co-operating with my thoughts"

Know what you mean!

 

[c_witch]

Hiee Merlin,

Seems as though I am unable to get the other thing figured out and get back to you there.
Still unsure as to what I will do about the standing rigging. I guess I'll either take it into Halifax and have them make all new stays and shrouds with swagged fittings or buy the wire that I need and then get the sta-loc fittings and make my own.
The PO had a cheek block at the bottom of the mast on starboard side for the main halyard which he appears to have run back to the cockpit. Not a good line run due to the companion way hatches. The jib is furled and that line was run aft via bulls eyes. The jib halyard it seems was dealt with from the fore deck. I think I will be using 1 1/2 blocks and straps 2 each to route the halyards to the cockpit as well as the furler line although the blocks for that will be smaller.

I have one major project to finish this year and that will be to cut out a section of the cockpit sole as the self bailing drain line has disconnected from the cockpit drain and needs to be repaired. No other way to get at it though . That area is pretty useless space now as in the past but more so due to the batteries being in front of the only access. Maybe I'll just fill it with foam for positive flotation.

Brina

"fingers not co-operating with my thoughts"

Know what you mean!

 

[Merlin Clark]

Hi Brina,
To get to your private messages, look towards the top of this page on the right side where it says "Welcome Brina" in bold. Just below that is a link "Private Messages". That takes you to your inbox.
I also sent you an e-mail.
A rigging shop should be able to copy the stays and shrouds you have without hauling the boat in? I'd check the difference in price between the rigging shop and buying the hardware to do it yourself. Those wrench-able fittings can be pretty dear$$.
Sorry to hear about the drain! The manufacturers make somethings very tough for us "Good Old Boat" lovers!

 

[Merlin Clark]

Oh, and thanks for the info on the halyard set up. I think I'll go with single blocks on eyes mounted on the tabernackle and from there cheek blocks outside the companionway slide and then to some sort of cleats. Trying to keep this as clean and low cost as possible.
I don't have furling. I know, some kind of dinosaur, right?

 

[c_witch]

Oh, and thanks for the info on the halyard set up. I think I'll go with single blocks on eyes mounted on the tabernackle and from there cheek blocks outside the companionway slide and then to some sort of cleats. Trying to keep this as clean and low cost as possible.
I don't have furling. I know, some kind of dinosaur, right?

LOL our furling came with the boat and is a simple 'Barton' job. We can not reef with it at all. I guess the PO installed it simply so that he would not have to drop the jib when anchored, moored etc. Not only that, it is set up as a fractional rig and rises to the height of our spreaders. If we want to use the other jib we have to undo the furler and its forestay and bring them into the mast and secure then hank on the other jib and use its own halyard. Pretty messy setup actually, but then they seemed to have tried setting it up as a cutter rig. I have now gotten rid of the old brow sprit as it was an add on and not very well done. We only have about half the sail area as you do but then our boat only weighs about half as much.

Brina

 

[Merlin Clark]

Sounds like you're getting it done Brina. I've had Schaffer rollers like that, all or nothing.
I'm happy with my hank ons, at least happy enough to not want to dump the $$ into a furler and reworking my sail. Also, I haven't had much luck with sail shape with a partially furled jib even with the right hardware and sail. With the hank ons I always have good sail shape.