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I have used 3M 5200 successfully for years on both transducers and thru hulls. Use the 5200 sparingly on the transducer housing and a good amount of goop on the flange that seals against the hull. If you have a cored hull with raw core material visible, remove about 3/8" of the core material around the hole with a dremel and fill with thickened epoxy. Once dry, sand smoothly, check tightness and seal with a light coat of epoxy with a wet out brush. Apply the 5200 and you're done. If you need to remove it at a later date, use Anti Bond 2015. It works quickly and makes removal easy. Good luck!
I found the place on the hull where it got the best reading then just bedded it in epoxy. Just make sure there are no air bubbles. Works fine.
epoxied thru-hulls/transducers?
Are you aware you just "cemented" your transducer to the hull? Good luck when you need to replace it! Ron
Re: epoxied thru-hulls/transducers?
Epoxy is far easier to remove than 5200. I am a shipwright and have had to work extensively with both materials. In this application epoxy works best because it very closely duplicates the hull material and limits or eliminates any corruption of transducer signal.
Epoxy is far easier to remove than 5200. I am a shipwright and have had to work extensively with both materials. In this application epoxy works best because it very closely duplicates the hull material and limits or eliminates any corruption of transducer signal.
epoxy vs. 5200
osition fix, charted depths, pilot information, etc. I suppose the readers will just have to chose the method they deem most appropriate. Best, Ron
Your method represents non-standard practice and disregards manufacturers recommendations. Epoxy certainly duplicates the hull material and because of this bond requires drastic engineering to remove it and considerable time re-engineering the mess you've made once it's out. Contrawise, a 2 minute soaking in Antibond will release the most tenacious grip possible with 5200 and leave a reasonably clean surface that can be finished with a small scraper and some 80 grit sandpaper. In regards to your concern about transducer signals, most sailboats do not have the same need for accuracy as a nuclear sub. Depth and speed gauges are pieces of navigational information that need to be accurate but also are factored with other considerations
osition fix, charted depths, pilot information, etc. I suppose the readers will just have to chose the method they deem most appropriate. Best, Ron
We call it 52,000,000 around here and with good reason. While there are a few solvents that make make it easier to remove they work slowly and are very likely damaging the hull material as well.
New epoxy on glass hulls forms a strong bond but by no means 'permanent'. Some careful use of a heat gun followed by a chisel or stiff putty knife tapped with a hammer works well. It will often break loose the whole chunk of epoxy in one go. What does not come loose right away will be soft enough from the heat to be easily removed with a scraper.
To each his own Ron. As to not needing the accuracy of a sub...I see no reason to introduce the possibility of error. My sounder works very well and when the time comes for it to be removed I have no concerns about it being unduly difficult.
New epoxy on glass hulls forms a strong bond but by no means 'permanent'. Some careful use of a heat gun followed by a chisel or stiff putty knife tapped with a hammer works well. It will often break loose the whole chunk of epoxy in one go. What does not come loose right away will be soft enough from the heat to be easily removed with a scraper.
To each his own Ron. As to not needing the accuracy of a sub...I see no reason to introduce the possibility of error. My sounder works very well and when the time comes for it to be removed I have no concerns about it being unduly difficult.
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