Info on fixing H33 - 2005 Side Cabin Window Leak

Oct 13, 2016
71
Hunter 33 Kingston
I am looking at buying a H33 that had a leaky window. The issue was "fixed" by the previous owner who just ran a bead of silicone along the top edge of the window (on top of the grey moulding). Needless to say it's not the best looking fix so I will need to repair this properly if I purchase the boat. Any suggestions about techniques or products I can use to make a more professional repair?
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,912
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Did the exact same couple years ago. The grey moulding is actually just painted on the window.

- remove the interior trim, only held in with 2 screws
- remove the lens, you'll have to cut and carefully pry to get it separated from the caulking or use fishing line trick
- scrape the remaining caulking off the boat and lens with a plastic paint scraper
- clean with acetone and then clean again with soap and water then water. And then clean again with soap and water then water. Dry well and allow to air dry Make sure all the acetone is gone otherwise will leak (( trust me on this step ;) )
- tape off the boat and lens inside and out to stop squeeze out from sticking
- use DOW 795 caulking ( nothing else will work) and apply and large bead
- reinstall the lens with the 2 screws, you should have 1/8" bead left between lens and boat and flush or slight squeeze out
- clean up squeeze out with wet finger and leave smooth surface.
 

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Jan 4, 2006
6,444
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Did the exact same couple years ago. The grey moulding is actually just painted on the window.
Scott, I received the same instruction from Hunter for replacing fixed ports quite a number of years ago. The one item which still haunts me to this day is their reference to the embossment flanges being 1/2" to 1" wide. The narrowest section of flange I have here is 2-1/2" wide and I'm still working on a strategy to remove the glass in one piece.

Front Window Showing Landings.JPG


It leaks in two locations which I've dug out and resealed twice but otherwise the glass is in perfect condition with no crazing .............. I have no idea when I have crazing everywhere else. I doubt I can save it from destruction.

The other thing Hunter omits, which I've learned over the years, is to use an adhesive backed foam rubber spacer to GUARANTEE a 1/8" thickness of 795 between the flange and the glass. This lack of thickness is what causes the leaks as a result of thermal expansion.