Is it best to sail with the universal 25 engine in or out of gear? I have a 2 blade non folding prop.
In or out of gear
- Thread starter brad minda
- Start date
Sail with the gearbox in reverse, I have 3 blade right hand prop, sailing out of gear will add wear.
Transmissions: The right gear while under sail
and you might find other items of interest here:
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine
and you might find other items of interest here:
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine
After being told by a racing Captain that a third blade will cost a possible 1 knot/hr loss due to drag, I had the zinc diver align my 2 blade prop to be vertical with my keel.
I position the prop vertically with a "shaft alignment" mark and have NEVER seen it rotate even at 90% of hull speed on a 15° heel.
My transmission is always neutral when engine is down, for SAFETY reasons.
In modern cars, you can't start your engine when in gear! Guess Why?
Jim...
I position the prop vertically with a "shaft alignment" mark and have NEVER seen it rotate even at 90% of hull speed on a 15° heel.
My transmission is always neutral when engine is down, for SAFETY reasons.
In modern cars, you can't start your engine when in gear! Guess Why?
Jim...
when they were still around i had a talk with hurth transmissions who informed me that the only positive gear - the only one that won't let the prop spin the gearbox with the engine not running - is reverse.
The problem of letting the shaft turn is the engine is not pulling cooling water thru the transmission. Do that for a long time will overheat your transmission = big $$$
You know, this issue of TRANSMISSION POSITION comes up so often.
And the result I posted is for this particular skipper's engine/transmission.
Other transmissions require different solutions.
There is no one "right" answer.
Universals have Hurth transmissions, which I posted the link to the danged ACTUAL placard that comes with the transmissions.
Yanmars have different transmissions and Yanmar's own technical bulletins now say ONLY neutral.
Your boat, your transmission.
Please stop mixing apples & oranges, it doesn't help the OP at all.
And I've never heard of water being pulled through a transmission on the kind of engines/transmissions most of us have. They are serviced by ATF for Hurths and oil for Yanmars.
Water? Hardly...
Thanks.
And the result I posted is for this particular skipper's engine/transmission.
Other transmissions require different solutions.
There is no one "right" answer.
Universals have Hurth transmissions, which I posted the link to the danged ACTUAL placard that comes with the transmissions.
Yanmars have different transmissions and Yanmar's own technical bulletins now say ONLY neutral.
Your boat, your transmission.
Please stop mixing apples & oranges, it doesn't help the OP at all.
And I've never heard of water being pulled through a transmission on the kind of engines/transmissions most of us have. They are serviced by ATF for Hurths and oil for Yanmars.
Water? Hardly...
Thanks.
Just rebuilt my Hurth transmission, clutch plates were badly overheated. I am assuming that one of the previous owners probably sailed with the transmission in forward, easily done. I tried sailing with transmission in forward, just to see if the shaft rotated....and it did. Do as the manual says, sail with tranny in reverse.
I have followed this and other threads on what gear should the transmission be in when not using the engine. I have no problem with placing the transmission in reverse when sailing. My question is does the engine turn over in forward or does the clutch assembly slip causing heat and damage. If the engine is not turning over but the prop is rotating in forward why is the clutch pack more robust in reverse and not rotate?
I have always sailed in neutral with fixed props - both to reduce drag and to avoid a constant stress on the transmission in Rev. Think about the torque-stresses surfing down a big W coast roller at 10 knots with prop fixed in Rev. With a 3-blader you might even turn the engine over (?backward rotation).
This happened once offshore on our 37' F-P cat with twin Yanmar 16's, Hurth trannys, and 3-bladed 16" Max props feathered in Rev, when we hit a very confused sea left by a squall, at about 8 knots, and heard the rumbling sound down below of an engine turning over, apparently due to a prop thrown out of feathered position in the rough water. Quickly went head to wind, shifted into neutral, then back into Rev when we had a bit of way on.
This happened once offshore on our 37' F-P cat with twin Yanmar 16's, Hurth trannys, and 3-bladed 16" Max props feathered in Rev, when we hit a very confused sea left by a squall, at about 8 knots, and heard the rumbling sound down below of an engine turning over, apparently due to a prop thrown out of feathered position in the rough water. Quickly went head to wind, shifted into neutral, then back into Rev when we had a bit of way on.
maybe they were correct, and maybe not, but the hurth folk told me keeping the transmission in neutral still lets the plates grind and and polish each other. like buying a honda civic, why not? just use reverse.
You mean like Carl Hurth..?? Carl Hurth sold the company to ZF and they still insist on neutral or reverse.
Neutral also creates less drag with a fixed prop and overcomes a potential safety issue if quick starting is necessary in an emergency. It also places less wear and tear on your starter motor for those times when you forget to take it out of reverse and start the motor..
Most outboards have "dog" clutches and not cone clutches.. They can lock in either forward or reverse.. Leaving in neutral while sailing would let the prop spin and because it'd be essentially unloaded, would cause no significant wear.. but I'd tip it up out of the water to avoid the drag.