in-hull transducer in a C22?
- Thread starter Gene Neill
- Start date
I just got my own answer.
It's dark outside, so I had my wife shine a flashlight up at the hull in the spot where I had removed the gelcoat inside. As I suspected (hoped), the light shone right up through.
It's dark outside, so I had my wife shine a flashlight up at the hull in the spot where I had removed the gelcoat inside. As I suspected (hoped), the light shone right up through.
I have been using an inexpensive humminbird fish/depth puck epoxied into the area of the bow just below where the water storage bottle is located for several years now. Works fine. Good for depth where there's no weeds but...it doesn't help me to catch fish very well. For some reason, whenever I see schools of fish on the screen and I drop a hook into the water, the fish images on screen quickly disappear.
Hmm, I don't have a water storage bottle, so I'm not exactly sure where that is. But I went just forward of the potty, under the V berth, first compartment, maybe 5" to port of the center line.
I'll be water testing it this weekend, hopefully, when we take Impetuous on her first overnighter.
I'll be water testing it this weekend, hopefully, when we take Impetuous on her first overnighter.
Hmm, I don't have a water storage bottle, so I'm not exactly sure where that is. But I went just forward of the potty, under the V berth, first compartment, maybe 5" to port of the center line.
I'll be water testing it this weekend, hopefully, when we take Impetuous on her first overnighter.
I bought a Hawkeye(great product and tech support, another thread) for my 1983 C-22 a few years back. I tried getting readings through the hull from various points forward of the potty and had no luck. As I loathe to create any more through-hull fittings below the water line, I ended up mounting the transducer on the transom and just sail backward!
Just kidding! Unit works fine and verifies depth soundings given on charts.
KJH....Maybe the barrier coat was effecting the signal? Also, if there are any air bubbles when the epoxy is mixed it can screw things up. I installed the transducer behind the keel under the companionway on our Capri-18 and it worked great. That way I didn't have to fish wires throughout the boat. Some folks simply use a wax toilet seal to check on the location.
Attached are some photos from the transducer mounting on our Capri-18,(what a GREAT little boat!)
Don
Attached are some photos from the transducer mounting on our Capri-18,(what a GREAT little boat!)
Don
Attachments
I too bought a Hawkeye in-hull transducer. Our 1985 swing keel 22 does appear to have wood panels embedded in some spots as evidenced by raised surfaces in various spots. Inhull would not read in several spots. Fought it for two years. Finally used a PVC standpipe to starboard of battery box about 4" from keel centerline and now have readings.
I have noticed what looks like wood panels in my hull, in the area where the trailer bunks go. They're far astern of where my transducer is going though.
I will make sure and post the success or failure of my mounting spot (with pics) as soon as the results are in.
I will make sure and post the success or failure of my mounting spot (with pics) as soon as the results are in.
I also mounted a Lowrance Fish Finder with see thru transducer which I mounted under the V berth about 6" into the for'ard space. There is no wood core in this area to distort the beam. Epoxied in with silicone gel, forming a small hollow in which to rest the transducer and worked any bubbles out. Works great. Checked by lead line and accurate to with a few inches. Being forward mounted and aimed slightly forward tells me what's under me before i get there, not after i hit it.
Oops . Mine is the new style.Hmm, I don't have a water storage bottle, so I'm not exactly sure where that is. But I went just forward of the potty, under the V berth, first compartment, maybe 5" to port of the center line.
I'll be water testing it this weekend, hopefully, when we take Impetuous on her first overnighter.
My Water storage bottle is under the V berth cushions but also in front of the porta potty section. The V berth has two storage accesses under the cushions and the water storage source for the sink is in the aft V berth compartment. This location relative to the hull is a bit in front of the keel and before the area where the hull is molded into the V shape for the bow. I would think that the shape of the hull for that V wold be of thicker fiberglass. I think that you'd want your puck in a similar area as it would scan the area where you're headed better.
Just a question. Is it true that the frequencies used 'ping' from the transducer in an inverted cone pattern. Wouldn't forward motion of the boat (max 7 kts) be negligible in picking up the bottom returns regardless of mounting location in the hull or do I need to rethink this?
Diamondjet: Yes, the propagation wave pattern is basically curved in the down shape of the transducer. Don't think too curved as this is the limiting factor in # of degrees covered with each ping. The intended coverage is different with each type of transducer also. Boat motion is negligable but the further forward in the hull the transducer is mounted the sooner you could see potential danger coming up. Hope that helped. Chief
Question
OK, so I have an 83 C22 and I just bought a Lowrance Depth/chart/fishfinder. There is already a hole just to the left of the keel locking bolt. The hole was for the original knotmeter which I removed because it never worked. So now I have this hole in my boat. My plan was to glass this over without filling it with a core material and mount the transducer there. Do you think I will get an acurate reading? If not do you have a suggestion on a better location without leading wires outside to the bootom of the transom?
If you fix the hole with layers of glass and smooth out backside it should transmit fine. Do test it first with a temporary mounting and I would NOT epoxy the transducer to the hull! Use silicone or toilet ring wax so eventual removal will be a simple task. Chief
Thanks for the reply Chief,
I have a few more questions if you have time. You seem to be one of many "go to guys" on most subjects.
I replaced the 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke with a Merc 5 HP sailpower long shaft. I made sure to get one with alternator to charge up the house battery only as I no longer have an electric start motor. When I am looking at batteries I need to be most concerned with Amp Hours correct? I also replaced all cabin lights with LED's for lower power consumption.
When I removed the tiller lower gungeon? I noticed the screws were not even hand tight. I assume this could be where some water is coming in?
I removed the swing keel and noticed there is no bushing in the keel itself. Being a Machinist I can fix this myself however I imagine getting the keel back up into the locker will be a "heavy" task. But I did notice that there is a small pea sized hole on the corner of where one of the hangars go. Can I just glass that up?
When I purchased this boat around July, we spent a good bit of time on it learning how to sail and trying to fix small problems that we could. The boat always had about
1.5"-2" of water in the bilge area, the knotmeter thru hull area as well as forward of the porto pottie location under the first access panel in the vberth. I tried epoxy near the vberth area and it stopped the flow but it still seeps in. (the boat gains more water inside the more weight we put in it) It doesn't seem to be a huge issue but when I put it back in the water this spring I want it watertight!!
Any ideas on where it may be coming from?
I plan to replace all seacocks as well as keel cable hardware and tube before putting it back in the water.
Sorry for all the questions but helpfull hints are appreciated.
I have a few more questions if you have time. You seem to be one of many "go to guys" on most subjects.
I replaced the 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke with a Merc 5 HP sailpower long shaft. I made sure to get one with alternator to charge up the house battery only as I no longer have an electric start motor. When I am looking at batteries I need to be most concerned with Amp Hours correct? I also replaced all cabin lights with LED's for lower power consumption.
When I removed the tiller lower gungeon? I noticed the screws were not even hand tight. I assume this could be where some water is coming in?
I removed the swing keel and noticed there is no bushing in the keel itself. Being a Machinist I can fix this myself however I imagine getting the keel back up into the locker will be a "heavy" task. But I did notice that there is a small pea sized hole on the corner of where one of the hangars go. Can I just glass that up?
When I purchased this boat around July, we spent a good bit of time on it learning how to sail and trying to fix small problems that we could. The boat always had about
1.5"-2" of water in the bilge area, the knotmeter thru hull area as well as forward of the porto pottie location under the first access panel in the vberth. I tried epoxy near the vberth area and it stopped the flow but it still seeps in. (the boat gains more water inside the more weight we put in it) It doesn't seem to be a huge issue but when I put it back in the water this spring I want it watertight!!
Any ideas on where it may be coming from?
I plan to replace all seacocks as well as keel cable hardware and tube before putting it back in the water.
Sorry for all the questions but helpfull hints are appreciated.
I took my standard Lowrance sensor that is usually stern mounted or attached to a trolling mtr. and epoxied it onto the hull just ahead of the keel. Works like a charm. Good clear images. Just be sure you don't have any bubbles in the epoxy when you apply it. I build a dam around the area where I placed the sensor so that I could completely cover it in epoxy. Used alcohol to clean the location first and prepare the surface for good adhesion.
If I recall, someone said that the transducer would not shoot accurately through the hull core. (plywood)
Did you have an issue with this?
I would really like to put some core material back in the knotmeter thru hull but that is the ony place I know of that is not cored material.
Did you have an issue with this?
I would really like to put some core material back in the knotmeter thru hull but that is the ony place I know of that is not cored material.
