I'm a little nervous about lifting this beast.
- Thread starter caguy
- Start date
- Status
Jerry with the Mac is there a reason you just didn't drop the tongue down and then block the back and then raise the tongue all the way up and block the front? Most of the guys with Mac 26 S's and D's do that.
I've done that.....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor/outside-3.html
.......Right now the boat is in the shop and I want to put a second axle on the trailer. I'll block the back like above and then lift the front with the tongue jack. I've built a gantry/beam up by the ceiling across the bay the boat is in. I'll then use a sling off of it to hold the front of the boat up until I can pull the trailer out from underneath it. I post pictures later, but there is too much snow to pull the trailer outside right now.
c ya,
Sum
Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID
Our Mac Pages
Mac Links
As summer will say
I had the same need a couple years ago and resolved it by using an auto floor jack in conjunction with my trailer. I dropped the tongue to ground and built a stand at end of aft bunks as Rick B. (nice pics). Then lifted bow end with the trailer tongue to get the boat above the trailer. I made a sling support for the bow end using a long heavy duty tie down strap and four 4x4's so as to pull the trailer out. I put the safety blocks under the hull then I used the floor jack to drop, repair and replace the keel. (in afterthought it would have been better to have done this on cement rather than dirt)
I had the same need a couple years ago and resolved it by using an auto floor jack in conjunction with my trailer. I dropped the tongue to ground and built a stand at end of aft bunks as Rick B. (nice pics). Then lifted bow end with the trailer tongue to get the boat above the trailer. I made a sling support for the bow end using a long heavy duty tie down strap and four 4x4's so as to pull the trailer out. I put the safety blocks under the hull then I used the floor jack to drop, repair and replace the keel. (in afterthought it would have been better to have done this on cement rather than dirt)
Lower the bow. Use old tires (free) with a beam across them and one more tire each angled on top of the beam to the curve of the underside. Lift the bow on the tow jack. Support the bow with a strap under it anchored to two A frames each side with the A frame leaning against the gunnel. Rope base of A frames along the ground to prevent slipping.
Take the wheels off the trailer and pull it out on the hubs. Support the bow with tires and beam like the rear. Place further tires around the boat for safety. If the boat is as heavy as you say fill the tires with dirt or sand. It makes each tire a 200lb brick.
Mic Jones
Take the wheels off the trailer and pull it out on the hubs. Support the bow with tires and beam like the rear. Place further tires around the boat for safety. If the boat is as heavy as you say fill the tires with dirt or sand. It makes each tire a 200lb brick.
Mic Jones
An object will fall 2 feet in .250 seconds. If it weighs 4 tons and you happen to be underneath, you will die! This is becoming a game of "you bet your life". Don't try to do this in a make shift fashion! Use the best material and don't compromise anything! Stu Jackson broke his leg last winter and didn't get out sailing for the entire season. After they lift a boat off your legs how long will it be before you can walk let alone go sailing?
if yhe boat will flote just launch it ....tie it off...go fix the trailer....come back and reload the boat back on the trailer ....unless you had planned to do some other things to the boat while off the trailer .......in that case get a boom truck and slings and unload the boat ....it is not worth getting hurt just to save a dime even on a tight budget.....
good luck with your work ...and be safe ...after all it is supposed to be fun
regards
woody
good luck with your work ...and be safe ...after all it is supposed to be fun
regards
woody
The Appleman's idea seems reasonable. But for trailer-work the easiest and safest would be to simply launch the boat. It might be simple to add a temporary bunk board either behind, or above/below the weak one, then bang in a few short braces between the new board and the trailer frame for support, and attach some cross-pieces to hold those short braces in place for the trip.
Woody floating the boat is the way I fixed my Mac25 bunks. Its about 45 mi. to the launch and I don't want to drive the frwy with all of their post earthquake dips with broken and rotted bunks. The bunks on the Mac broke when loading the boat, so floating it was not an issue. Adding supplementary bunks on a 2700# boat would also be doable, but this old gal weight almost 4 tons.
Being this close to retirement I fully intend not to get hurt. Believe it or not I actually do enjoy this kind of problem solving. I was actually getting bored with my Mac 25 because I have run out of mods. I enjoy sailing on it but I also enjoy designing and executing the design, even it it involves moving mountains.
- Status