I have just discovered why my ice box converts ice to water so efficiently, the ice box is not insulated! I have pulled out the 3 drawers in the stern of the galley area to accesss the outside of the ice box and see there is not a lot of access room. Can someone recommend how to approach this subject?
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Brandon
I feel your pain
I must agree, my lunch box keeps my drink colder longer than the ice box in my C30. It appears the icebox is cored with half inch foam but nothing more. I'm looking at putting in new counter tops so will probably tackle the ice box insulation issue then. It appears that ti will come up and out with the C-top, but I'm not sure. Be careful trying to shove insulation around it from the 3drawer cutout, there are several hoses, wires and the alcohol supply line that run between it and the hull.
I must agree, my lunch box keeps my drink colder longer than the ice box in my C30. It appears the icebox is cored with half inch foam but nothing more. I'm looking at putting in new counter tops so will probably tackle the ice box insulation issue then. It appears that ti will come up and out with the C-top, but I'm not sure. Be careful trying to shove insulation around it from the 3drawer cutout, there are several hoses, wires and the alcohol supply line that run between it and the hull.
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Gaspare
I re-insulated mine, works great
I re-insulated the ice box on my '77 C30 and can keep ice for several days or more. In fact, last year I cruised for 2 weeks straight and still had parts of the original blocks after 2 weeks. Here's what I did: 1. I bought 1 inch solid pink (high "R") foam from Home Depot. Going in from the stern galley draws I fitted the foam all around the box with glue. Measure and pre-cut the foam and get as much in as possible. Avoid leaving any area uncovered. Be sure to cover the bottom as well. 2. Next I drilled some small inconspicuous holes through the front of the ice box area (high up) near the stove and shoot in foam insulation. Buy the best (most expensive) foam in a can. There is a difference. The cheap stuff turns to powder. 3. Next I cut the 1 inch pink foam into one piece to fit up under the top of the ice box. Remember there isn't any insulation up there. I sealed the foam insulation up there with RTV. 4. On my old '77 the ice box covers are just 2 pieces of butcher block about 3/4 thick. Using the 1" foam, I framed and built inserts that fit under the original wooden covers. So if you picture it, you open the wood covers and there are 2 more additional framed foam insulation covers. You'll have to get creative (or contact me and I can e-mail you some pictures. 5.Last year I refinished all my counters and had the counter tops off. This allowed me to drill more holes and shoot in more foam, especially on the side of the ice box that is adjacent to the hull. 6. And of course, make sure you have a loop in the drain hose. This allows drain water to form a baffle preventing hot air from traveling up the drain hose.
I re-insulated the ice box on my '77 C30 and can keep ice for several days or more. In fact, last year I cruised for 2 weeks straight and still had parts of the original blocks after 2 weeks. Here's what I did: 1. I bought 1 inch solid pink (high "R") foam from Home Depot. Going in from the stern galley draws I fitted the foam all around the box with glue. Measure and pre-cut the foam and get as much in as possible. Avoid leaving any area uncovered. Be sure to cover the bottom as well. 2. Next I drilled some small inconspicuous holes through the front of the ice box area (high up) near the stove and shoot in foam insulation. Buy the best (most expensive) foam in a can. There is a difference. The cheap stuff turns to powder. 3. Next I cut the 1 inch pink foam into one piece to fit up under the top of the ice box. Remember there isn't any insulation up there. I sealed the foam insulation up there with RTV. 4. On my old '77 the ice box covers are just 2 pieces of butcher block about 3/4 thick. Using the 1" foam, I framed and built inserts that fit under the original wooden covers. So if you picture it, you open the wood covers and there are 2 more additional framed foam insulation covers. You'll have to get creative (or contact me and I can e-mail you some pictures. 5.Last year I refinished all my counters and had the counter tops off. This allowed me to drill more holes and shoot in more foam, especially on the side of the ice box that is adjacent to the hull. 6. And of course, make sure you have a loop in the drain hose. This allows drain water to form a baffle preventing hot air from traveling up the drain hose.
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John
Ice Box
I also want to improve my ice box ice keeping abilties. My 1983 split top wood cover has large plastic covered foam (4"/5") attached. In addition I installed weather stripping around the edge. I don't have the time to do Gaspar's project which sounds ideal so I intend to purchase the ice box thermal blanket and keep a cork in the drain hose as an interim approach.
I also want to improve my ice box ice keeping abilties. My 1983 split top wood cover has large plastic covered foam (4"/5") attached. In addition I installed weather stripping around the edge. I don't have the time to do Gaspar's project which sounds ideal so I intend to purchase the ice box thermal blanket and keep a cork in the drain hose as an interim approach.
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Gaspare
thermal blanket good, cork in drain bad
I also bought one of those aluminum foil thermal blankets, folded it a couple of times and trimmed it to the shape of the ice box. I used duct tape around the edges to help hold the shape. This works very well especially if the box isn't filled up to the top. I did a lot of research about whether it's best to drain the melted water or leave it and found out that since water is much more dense than air it is a better conductor of heat. Your better off draining the melted water and allowing the less dense cool air to surround your ice. The ice will last longer.
I also bought one of those aluminum foil thermal blankets, folded it a couple of times and trimmed it to the shape of the ice box. I used duct tape around the edges to help hold the shape. This works very well especially if the box isn't filled up to the top. I did a lot of research about whether it's best to drain the melted water or leave it and found out that since water is much more dense than air it is a better conductor of heat. Your better off draining the melted water and allowing the less dense cool air to surround your ice. The ice will last longer.
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Tom Soko
Draining cold water may be good,
But leaving the drain tube open is not. Cold air from the box will excape, and warm air from the bilge will get into the box. If your research is correct, you should regularly drain the water, but keep the cork!
But leaving the drain tube open is not. Cold air from the box will excape, and warm air from the bilge will get into the box. If your research is correct, you should regularly drain the water, but keep the cork!
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Todd Osborne
Paradigm shift
Call it an ice box, without insulation. I call it storage. I keep all my pots/pans in there. I let a cooler do the job of keeping my food. Comes in varying sizes to fit varying needs You can load it at home & never have to transfer goods into something different. Easy to empty & clean. Makes a good stern perchhelm seat. The 50 to 60 quart versions butt up next to the quarter berth (between nav station & companion way) and is relatively out of the way yet accessable. Food for thought.
Call it an ice box, without insulation. I call it storage. I keep all my pots/pans in there. I let a cooler do the job of keeping my food. Comes in varying sizes to fit varying needs You can load it at home & never have to transfer goods into something different. Easy to empty & clean. Makes a good stern perchhelm seat. The 50 to 60 quart versions butt up next to the quarter berth (between nav station & companion way) and is relatively out of the way yet accessable. Food for thought.
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Alan O'Dell
New icebox/cooler
I removed my icebox and replaced it with a new 72 quart marine cooler. I wanted to remove the drawers in the aft galley and install a small AC fridge there. I enlarged the drawer cut out for the fridge, built a platform for it to sit on, ran an electrical outlet in the space. The problem was, the ice box stuck out into that area. I removed the drawers, sawed out the old icebox (what a chore) and mounted the new marine cooler to the bottom of the counter top with aluminum "L" shaped stock. By enlarging the cutout for the fridge, I could just manuever the cooler in place and mount it to the bottom of the counter. My Cat 30 is a 1980. Even with the countertops removed, there was fibreglass/plywood on the top of the cooler area, so, it was not possible to insulate from the top. I did give up a little space in the icebox, but I only cruise for a week or so at a time, so it is pretty roomy for me. I also run a hose from the water drain on the cooler to the front of the cabinets to drain water. (not into bilge). Hope these ideas help.
I removed my icebox and replaced it with a new 72 quart marine cooler. I wanted to remove the drawers in the aft galley and install a small AC fridge there. I enlarged the drawer cut out for the fridge, built a platform for it to sit on, ran an electrical outlet in the space. The problem was, the ice box stuck out into that area. I removed the drawers, sawed out the old icebox (what a chore) and mounted the new marine cooler to the bottom of the counter top with aluminum "L" shaped stock. By enlarging the cutout for the fridge, I could just manuever the cooler in place and mount it to the bottom of the counter. My Cat 30 is a 1980. Even with the countertops removed, there was fibreglass/plywood on the top of the cooler area, so, it was not possible to insulate from the top. I did give up a little space in the icebox, but I only cruise for a week or so at a time, so it is pretty roomy for me. I also run a hose from the water drain on the cooler to the front of the cabinets to drain water. (not into bilge). Hope these ideas help.
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Gaspare
The correct way to drain ice box.
To clarify, the correct way to drain water from the ice box without allowing warm air up from the bilge or cold to escape. Put a loop in the drain hose at the bottom of the ice box. As the water drains it fills the loop. It will still continue to drain, it will just have to go through a loop. The loop forms a baffle of drain water the will keep warm air out and cold air in.
To clarify, the correct way to drain water from the ice box without allowing warm air up from the bilge or cold to escape. Put a loop in the drain hose at the bottom of the ice box. As the water drains it fills the loop. It will still continue to drain, it will just have to go through a loop. The loop forms a baffle of drain water the will keep warm air out and cold air in.
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Ghislain
Working on a dry bilge...
or is it wishful thinking... One of my recent projects is to insulate my ice box, from what I've been reading ...its going to be fun! But prior to carrying this project, I decided to re-route my ice box drain and here what I did: Made a small water tank 6" in dia 14" long, into which I connected the Ice box drain, the drain outlet is connected to a Shurflo pump (I had a spare one), that pumps the water back into the sink which then would drain down the sink drain thru-hull. -The pump and tank will keep any warm back into ice box. -Draining into the sink eliminates the need for a "t" connection and check valve on the sink drain line (to prevent drain back-flow into ice box) So far it works great, the moment you see a water in the ice box, throw on the pump. Now onto insulated the ice box..thanks for the help advice again! Ghislain
or is it wishful thinking... One of my recent projects is to insulate my ice box, from what I've been reading ...its going to be fun! But prior to carrying this project, I decided to re-route my ice box drain and here what I did: Made a small water tank 6" in dia 14" long, into which I connected the Ice box drain, the drain outlet is connected to a Shurflo pump (I had a spare one), that pumps the water back into the sink which then would drain down the sink drain thru-hull. -The pump and tank will keep any warm back into ice box. -Draining into the sink eliminates the need for a "t" connection and check valve on the sink drain line (to prevent drain back-flow into ice box) So far it works great, the moment you see a water in the ice box, throw on the pump. Now onto insulated the ice box..thanks for the help advice again! Ghislain
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Bob Camarena
Try the Top and Lid First
Try just insulating the top and lid first. I did mine with 2 layers of 1" pink foam insulation board, but if I had it to do over, I'd use the insulation board that comes with foil on both surfaces. I used Liquid Nails construction adhesive to glue it on. Don't forget weatherstripping for the lid. After doing the lid, you might find that you don't need to insulate the rest. By the way, the icebox insulation on the sides is at least 1" thick. I found out when I cut an access hole in the side to install the guts from a dorm refrigerator (which works great by the way). Check the archives under "Cheapo Refrigeration" if you're interested in what I and others have done.
Try just insulating the top and lid first. I did mine with 2 layers of 1" pink foam insulation board, but if I had it to do over, I'd use the insulation board that comes with foil on both surfaces. I used Liquid Nails construction adhesive to glue it on. Don't forget weatherstripping for the lid. After doing the lid, you might find that you don't need to insulate the rest. By the way, the icebox insulation on the sides is at least 1" thick. I found out when I cut an access hole in the side to install the guts from a dorm refrigerator (which works great by the way). Check the archives under "Cheapo Refrigeration" if you're interested in what I and others have done.
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Paul
Ice box
I have insulated mine by using the spray foam out of a can. I used Card board as a barrier so the foam wouldn't get everywhere. I basically built a wall all around the ice box with cardboard and left a 3" void which I filled with spray foam. It works great. Like others, I also used foam board and WX stripping to insulate the lid. I can keep ice for the entire weekend with no problem and I usually still have larger chuncks in the bottom. I also keep the plug out and allow the water to drain in the bulge. Your ice will last longer this way.
I have insulated mine by using the spray foam out of a can. I used Card board as a barrier so the foam wouldn't get everywhere. I basically built a wall all around the ice box with cardboard and left a 3" void which I filled with spray foam. It works great. Like others, I also used foam board and WX stripping to insulate the lid. I can keep ice for the entire weekend with no problem and I usually still have larger chuncks in the bottom. I also keep the plug out and allow the water to drain in the bulge. Your ice will last longer this way.
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