I Need Some Running Gear Advice, Catalina 27
- Thread starter philwsailz
- Start date
Thank god it would be a shame to put $2000.00 wheels on a $1000.00 car so to speak
Well, I am going to cut three pieces of the Ultra-X and try it in my existing SB on the undamaged section of the shaft. On the bench of course.... Just to see if I even bought the right stuff for the existing box. I have a lifetime supply right???
If it looks good I can likely just buy hose and clamps and use my current stuffing box. Nothing wrong with it except for being old.
I changed to dripless PSS about 6 years ago and have been satisfied. Although, I've had the shaft uncoupled twice since I put it on and both times, I'm sure the set screws were never changed out like it was supposed to be. Since the last time it was uncoupled 2 years ago, I get a little water leakage when under load. If I motor for 1/2 hour, I get about 1/2" of water in the bilge. At rest it doesn't leak any at all. It has been annoying, so I dry my bilge every time I leave the boat and come back to find it dry, so at least I know it doesn't leak except when motoring. But it probably also leaks when sailing, too, as the shaft is spinning. Anyway, I'm changing the bellows this winter as it is due. I'm satisfied, but I think it is personal preference. I guess the rationale is that it works. I guess it works about as good as a traditional stuffing box. Maybe no better, no worse. That's why they both survive. Beta vs VHF, except there is no clear winner?
Replace the shaft, for sure. It looks like it is toast. I would think that shaft replacement is a common thing in your neck of the woods. All competition ski boats run with inboard engines and coupled shafts and that's a big deal in your area, no? It's not just a sailboat thing.
Replace the shaft, for sure. It looks like it is toast. I would think that shaft replacement is a common thing in your neck of the woods. All competition ski boats run with inboard engines and coupled shafts and that's a big deal in your area, no? It's not just a sailboat thing.
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Looking last night the box Mic'd at 1.480 ID. Looks like I need some 1/4" packing. Does anyone prefer something different than Ultra-X?
Phil, this includes links to MS's stuff, it includes all the material you already know, though.
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing
I'm laughing. All this second-guessing on my part... A lot of research went into my decision to purchase 3/16. It's just been so long... Stu and Sesmith point to my original research... I also had a chance to visit with Kent Nelson in the topic prior to his departure from Catalina Yachts.
I made informed decisions, I just had to be reminded of that fact
I made informed decisions, I just had to be reminded of that fact
So dusting off prior research, dusting off long-forgotten articles, dusting off parts bought 4-5 years ago and remembering why...
Tonight I decided to go cut some rings of 3/16 Ultra-X and do a dry fit in my stuffing box.
While I can't test with water, I think this is exactly what I will need when I hit the water. I'm testing on a clean 1.000" section of my old shaft. I can get 3 rings of Ultra-X in easy and 4 will maybe fit, depending on drip rate after floating and swelling of the packing.
Here is a pic of the stuffing box but. First one with three rings after a light hand-tightened compress. Second pic is 4 rings after a light hand-tightened compress. Both give the minimum 4 full turns of thread engagement that Maine Sail recommends.
Time to get the dimensions of the shaft and leftover Christmas money and get a shaft and coupling ordered.
Tonight I decided to go cut some rings of 3/16 Ultra-X and do a dry fit in my stuffing box.
While I can't test with water, I think this is exactly what I will need when I hit the water. I'm testing on a clean 1.000" section of my old shaft. I can get 3 rings of Ultra-X in easy and 4 will maybe fit, depending on drip rate after floating and swelling of the packing.
Here is a pic of the stuffing box but. First one with three rings after a light hand-tightened compress. Second pic is 4 rings after a light hand-tightened compress. Both give the minimum 4 full turns of thread engagement that Maine Sail recommends.
Time to get the dimensions of the shaft and leftover Christmas money and get a shaft and coupling ordered.
Attachments
To give an idea regarding how this shaft was abused take a look at this:
Ironically, to get the coupler to the aft most set screw dimple takes a fair amount of tapping. The light press fit still exists between the shaft and coupling when fully engaged.
Too bad some PO decided shoe leather was a good stuffing box packing. No kidding. Those two rings, the first and third??? I've cut into them. Leather strips...
Ironically, to get the coupler to the aft most set screw dimple takes a fair amount of tapping. The light press fit still exists between the shaft and coupling when fully engaged.
Too bad some PO decided shoe leather was a good stuffing box packing. No kidding. Those two rings, the first and third??? I've cut into them. Leather strips...
well 4 times 3/16 is 3/4 as is 3 times 1/4 = 3/4 but the only thing i wonder about is that 2 x 3/16 is 3/8 and 2x 1/4 is 1/2 when it comes to wrapping the shaft and i personally don't know if that will compress to the desired compression around the shaft ...it may work for a while but i am thinking that it will loosen up over time and you will be constantly adjusting the nut but maybe not ...just some food for thought
There is a TON of data that says these boxes use 3/16 in these ORIGINAL boxes. I was able to easily turn the nut by hand to a no-spin situation so I know it compresses after tonight.
However, Wire-brushing mine tonight, I think it looks more pink than I like. I've been around lots of old boats. Old wood boats. I know what verdigris and pink fasteners means... There is no verdigris here but there is pink on the shaft. Turns out there was mis-alignment too, so the shaft was rubbing the metal ID of the box. Shoot, do it ALL. Right??? That means new box and spec packing.... 1/4" for the new box.
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I have to admit, the further I dig, the more I am tempted to plug the hole, yank the motor and hang an outboard on the back and call it a day. Self-draini g water passages, year-round sailing, a huge storage cavity made available...
The damn transom art probably prevents me...
I have rebuilt and restored a few OMC outboards. For the price of parts I am contemplating to get the inboard system rebuilt I can buy a used motor, go completely through it and paint it to look better than new. Hone if necessary, new rings, new pump, rebuilt lower unit, total-new ignition with points-less magneto. Shoot, I have a '55 Evinrude 25HP electric-start long-shaft motor sitting in show paint just waiting for carb, mag, and flywheel. It's already modified for single-line fuel hose... Despite being 20-years too old for the boat it would sure look sweet back there.
I bought a pair and rebuilt both anticipating a twins install on this boat but only rigged one.
The damn transom art probably prevents me...
I have rebuilt and restored a few OMC outboards. For the price of parts I am contemplating to get the inboard system rebuilt I can buy a used motor, go completely through it and paint it to look better than new. Hone if necessary, new rings, new pump, rebuilt lower unit, total-new ignition with points-less magneto. Shoot, I have a '55 Evinrude 25HP electric-start long-shaft motor sitting in show paint just waiting for carb, mag, and flywheel. It's already modified for single-line fuel hose... Despite being 20-years too old for the boat it would sure look sweet back there.
I bought a pair and rebuilt both anticipating a twins install on this boat but only rigged one.
So you know what you are looking at above, it's a '54 Liberty Boatworks, (Texas builder) 18' Bellcraft outboard utility. I redid it in 2007. It's been in the water once since. . Old boats.... So many never see the light of day.
. Old boats.... So many never see the light of day.