Re: I need a tutorial video on how to use a symetrical spinn
The spinnaker pole is specified and designed to be the same length as the J area of your boat (sail maker term) - from the front of the mast to the stem head fitting where the forestay attaches. So, you don't want to change that measurement.
End for end gybing is done on boats where the pole can be handled by a crew member. If the boat is larger, then the pole gets to be unmanageable by a crew member and so then you go to dip pole gybing, but that takes more lines and more hardware. Basically, for end to end pole handling, you need, of course, the halyard for hoisting the spinnaker, which is run through a block at the leading edge of the masthead forward of the forestay (not inside the forestay). Then you need a pole topping lift which is usually attached above the lower spreader (if you have two) and also the foreguy (or pole downhaul as some call it) which has a deck block which is attached usually midway between the mast and the forestay on the centerline of the deck. The exact location depends on the deck shape, if you have any hatches, vents, etc. in the way. Some people will attach the downhaul/foreguy near the base of the mast, but I prefer the forward location because then, if the pole is too far aft, you can pull it forward with the downhaul line. The topping lift attaches to a bridle on the pole with a quick release snap hook (a snap shackle is too slow). It then runs through the block at the mast location and down to the mast base and then is routed to the cockpit. The downhaul attaches to a bridle at the bottom of the pole with the same sort of snap hook and then routes through the deck block and back to the cockpit. I usually like the down haul and topping lift cleats next to each other rather than one on one side of the companionway and the other on the other side because they often have to be adjusted at the same time and so next to each other makes it easy for one person. When you attach the pole to the mast eye, the jaws should always face up. So, when you attach the topping life to the bridle, the top of the pole would be the same side as that of the jaw that opens. The reason for this is because if the pole ever gets away from you and skies (the outboard end reaches for the sky because someone forgot to cleat in the down haul line), you could bend the mast eye because the pole will not rotate up because the jaw backside gets caught in the mast eye and becomes a lever. If the jaws are facing upward, then the pole will pivot without damaging the mast eye.
The other items you need are the two sheets which have different names as the pole is gybed. The line attached to the pole end is called the afterguy and the line attached to the free corner of the sail is called the sheet. When you gybe the pole you remove the pole end off the mast and attach it to the other corner of the spinnaker. Now both corners are attached to each end of the pole. The next step is to push the pole out to the new side and bring the other end into the mast where you can reach the corner, disconnect the line off of the pole and attach that end to the mast. While this is going on, the helmsperson must turn the boat at just the right time and speed to allow the foredeck crew to get the pole gybing done, keeping the sail full all the time and not going too fast so that the sail doesn't get caught inside the foretriange, etc.
So, the line attached to the pole (afterguy), after the gybe will not become the sheet and the sheet on the other side, now attached to the pole, becomes the afterguy.
Both the sheet and after buy are lead to the aft corners of the boat through blocks and then to the secondary winches, which are usually aft of the primaries on the coaming of your Cal 34.
The rule of thumbs for flying a spinnaker is to keep the pole parallel with the water and perpendicular with the apparent wind. You want the outboard end of the pole corner of the spinnaker the same height as the free corner of the spinnaker. You can raise or lower the attitude of the pole with the topping lift and/or foreguy to keep the corners level and you also want to raise the inboard end of the pole so the pole is not angling upward. You want the outboard end of the pole to stick out as far as it can and so to assure that it is, you push the inboard end up higher to keep the pole level (hence pushing the end out as far as possible) with the car that is on the track on the leading edge of the mast.
Trimming the sail is straight forward in that the luff (the edge of the sail from the pole to the masthead) is on the verge of luffing. The pole should be kept, in most situations, perpendicular to the apparent wind. (Therefore, if the wind is well aft or running, then the pole will be pulled back so that it is perpendicular to the keel almost (remember: perpendicular to the wind). If the wind moves forward (either because the wind is shifting or the helms person is turning the boat into the wind more), then the pole is eased with the afterguy so that the pole is always perpendicular to the wind. As the wind goes further forward in relationship to the boat, then the pole will go forward until it touches the forestay (but it is wise to keep it off the forestay). As the pole goes forward, the person on the sheet keeps pulling the free corner of the sail in keeping that luff from just not breaking. If the wind goes forward more, time for a genoa. As the wind goes forward, the leading edge of the spinnaker should be tighter (straighter) than when you are off the wind (the the spinnaker is opened up or more bellowy). Set the pole in that position first (by adjusting the afterguy) and then let the sheet out until the sail starts to luff. Keep it on the verge of luffing all the time. If you are going to fly the spinnaker in heavy weather situations, you will want to add tweekers (or twings) which are lines that choke down the sheet or afterguy (sort of a barber hauler, but not quite) which will keep the sail more stabilized. As the wind pipes up, you usually tweak the pole side (afterguy), but not the sheet side, but if it really gets super windy, then you want to tweak down both sides and move the pole forward (ease the after guy and then tighten up the foreguy so the pole doesn't sky). The is the only time you don't keep the pole perpendicular to the apparent wind. This is a lot to consume, but feel free to message me if you wish to discuss this all in more detail. glad to help.
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