I have seen many warnings about hose clamps
- Thread starter Ross
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Hose Clamps
The only failures I have seen in the last 60 years of experience on board all types of boat are where the clamp was not all stainless and the non-stainless part corroded away - as it did under my home washing machine a month ago. Another failure mode is caused by owners who keep on torquing them up and eventually strip the thread on the stainless band. This only has a partial (20°) engagement with the screw and is a soft material and easily strips. The reason for the need to CHECK the torque rather than actually turn them is because the plastic pipe (often polythene) can gradually creep away from the clamping area and allow a slight leak. Not at all life threatening and easily remedied with minimal turn of the screw. Some hose failures are because of this material migration, resulting from constant tightening, which can result in a thinning of the tube wall and the clamp band eventually cuts right through the tube. I just put a screwdriver or special key on mine each fit out time and find that, after the first couple of years they don't need any further tension. BTW Happy New Year to All.
The only failures I have seen in the last 60 years of experience on board all types of boat are where the clamp was not all stainless and the non-stainless part corroded away - as it did under my home washing machine a month ago. Another failure mode is caused by owners who keep on torquing them up and eventually strip the thread on the stainless band. This only has a partial (20°) engagement with the screw and is a soft material and easily strips. The reason for the need to CHECK the torque rather than actually turn them is because the plastic pipe (often polythene) can gradually creep away from the clamping area and allow a slight leak. Not at all life threatening and easily remedied with minimal turn of the screw. Some hose failures are because of this material migration, resulting from constant tightening, which can result in a thinning of the tube wall and the clamp band eventually cuts right through the tube. I just put a screwdriver or special key on mine each fit out time and find that, after the first couple of years they don't need any further tension. BTW Happy New Year to All.
Hose Clamps
The only failures I have seen in the last 60 years of experience on board all types of boat are where the clamp was not all stainless and the non-stainless part corroded away - as it did under my home washing machine a month ago. Another failure mode is caused by owners who keep on torquing them up and eventually strip the thread on the stainless band. This only has a partial (20°) engagement with the screw and is a soft material and easily strips. The reason for the need to CHECK the torque rather than actually turn them is because the plastic pipe (often polythene) can gradually creep away from the clamping area and allow a slight leak. Not at all life threatening and easily remedied with minimal turn of the screw. Some hose failures are because of this material migration, resulting from constant tightening, which can result in a thinning of the tube wall and the clamp band eventually cuts right through the tube. I just put a screwdriver or special key on mine each fit out time and find that, after the first couple of years they don't need any further tension. BTW Happy New Year to All.
The only failures I have seen in the last 60 years of experience on board all types of boat are where the clamp was not all stainless and the non-stainless part corroded away - as it did under my home washing machine a month ago. Another failure mode is caused by owners who keep on torquing them up and eventually strip the thread on the stainless band. This only has a partial (20°) engagement with the screw and is a soft material and easily strips. The reason for the need to CHECK the torque rather than actually turn them is because the plastic pipe (often polythene) can gradually creep away from the clamping area and allow a slight leak. Not at all life threatening and easily remedied with minimal turn of the screw. Some hose failures are because of this material migration, resulting from constant tightening, which can result in a thinning of the tube wall and the clamp band eventually cuts right through the tube. I just put a screwdriver or special key on mine each fit out time and find that, after the first couple of years they don't need any further tension. BTW Happy New Year to All.
My take
I have not had the offshore experiences of a Cap ron, who was a bit testy, but I have always done my own work on all my boats for the 30 some years I have sailed anD cruised the Great Lakes. I have never found a coroded hose clamp , nor have I heard of anyone around my areas who had a close call as a result of a failure. I certainly have never heard - or read - anyone, before now, suggest replacing all hose clamps once a year. Ross, I enjoy and respect your posts and find you a good source of info and advice.
I have not had the offshore experiences of a Cap ron, who was a bit testy, but I have always done my own work on all my boats for the 30 some years I have sailed anD cruised the Great Lakes. I have never found a coroded hose clamp , nor have I heard of anyone around my areas who had a close call as a result of a failure. I certainly have never heard - or read - anyone, before now, suggest replacing all hose clamps once a year. Ross, I enjoy and respect your posts and find you a good source of info and advice.
My take
I have not had the offshore experiences of a Cap ron, who was a bit testy, but I have always done my own work on all my boats for the 30 some years I have sailed anD cruised the Great Lakes. I have never found a coroded hose clamp , nor have I heard of anyone around my areas who had a close call as a result of a failure. I certainly have never heard - or read - anyone, before now, suggest replacing all hose clamps once a year. Ross, I enjoy and respect your posts and find you a good source of info and advice.
I have not had the offshore experiences of a Cap ron, who was a bit testy, but I have always done my own work on all my boats for the 30 some years I have sailed anD cruised the Great Lakes. I have never found a coroded hose clamp , nor have I heard of anyone around my areas who had a close call as a result of a failure. I certainly have never heard - or read - anyone, before now, suggest replacing all hose clamps once a year. Ross, I enjoy and respect your posts and find you a good source of info and advice.
I just did a long look at McMaster-Carr and their
catalog of hose clamps. They list many styles and types. Some are all stainless steel in a choice of alloys and some have a stainless steel band with a zinc plated screw. The ones with a zinc plated screw are said to have fair corrosion resistance, the all stainless are said to have very good corrosion resistance. They sell constant tension clamps, quick release clamps, clamps with a built in offset for wire hose like on a clothes dryer. Some are rated for SAE use. I think that someone could do a college level term paper on hose clamps and their place in industry.
catalog of hose clamps. They list many styles and types. Some are all stainless steel in a choice of alloys and some have a stainless steel band with a zinc plated screw. The ones with a zinc plated screw are said to have fair corrosion resistance, the all stainless are said to have very good corrosion resistance. They sell constant tension clamps, quick release clamps, clamps with a built in offset for wire hose like on a clothes dryer. Some are rated for SAE use. I think that someone could do a college level term paper on hose clamps and their place in industry.
I just did a long look at McMaster-Carr and their
catalog of hose clamps. They list many styles and types. Some are all stainless steel in a choice of alloys and some have a stainless steel band with a zinc plated screw. The ones with a zinc plated screw are said to have fair corrosion resistance, the all stainless are said to have very good corrosion resistance. They sell constant tension clamps, quick release clamps, clamps with a built in offset for wire hose like on a clothes dryer. Some are rated for SAE use. I think that someone could do a college level term paper on hose clamps and their place in industry.
catalog of hose clamps. They list many styles and types. Some are all stainless steel in a choice of alloys and some have a stainless steel band with a zinc plated screw. The ones with a zinc plated screw are said to have fair corrosion resistance, the all stainless are said to have very good corrosion resistance. They sell constant tension clamps, quick release clamps, clamps with a built in offset for wire hose like on a clothes dryer. Some are rated for SAE use. I think that someone could do a college level term paper on hose clamps and their place in industry.
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
our hose leak 15 miles offshore
This past summer, we were taking my friends new to him (30 year old boat) out for a test run. We were about 15 miles out when we started taking on water. We had filled up the fresh water holding tank with water and a bottle of bleach that morning, and our first thought was that this old tank or hose thereto attached were leaking, but the water in the bilge was distinctly odorless compared to the water that we were able to pump out at the sink fawcett. The water that was coming in was fresh lake water. The owner pumped it out, but it filled up the bilge again in short order. He pulled up the floorboards, pumped it dry, soaked up any residual water, and watched it refill from somewhere up front. He was able to trace it back to a hose leading to a through hull that at one time drained an anchor well. The through hull was just below the waterline and on port tack was letting water back up through the hose, and although it was plugged off, the hose itself had deteriorated and was leaking in three places. He was able to cut off the bad portion of the hose and reposition the good portion over the through hull and re-plug it, while I sailed the boat back to the harbour. The next day we were able to replace the hose, and go out again. The lesson I learned caused me to change out all my old hoses.
This past summer, we were taking my friends new to him (30 year old boat) out for a test run. We were about 15 miles out when we started taking on water. We had filled up the fresh water holding tank with water and a bottle of bleach that morning, and our first thought was that this old tank or hose thereto attached were leaking, but the water in the bilge was distinctly odorless compared to the water that we were able to pump out at the sink fawcett. The water that was coming in was fresh lake water. The owner pumped it out, but it filled up the bilge again in short order. He pulled up the floorboards, pumped it dry, soaked up any residual water, and watched it refill from somewhere up front. He was able to trace it back to a hose leading to a through hull that at one time drained an anchor well. The through hull was just below the waterline and on port tack was letting water back up through the hose, and although it was plugged off, the hose itself had deteriorated and was leaking in three places. He was able to cut off the bad portion of the hose and reposition the good portion over the through hull and re-plug it, while I sailed the boat back to the harbour. The next day we were able to replace the hose, and go out again. The lesson I learned caused me to change out all my old hoses.
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
our hose leak 15 miles offshore
This past summer, we were taking my friends new to him (30 year old boat) out for a test run. We were about 15 miles out when we started taking on water. We had filled up the fresh water holding tank with water and a bottle of bleach that morning, and our first thought was that this old tank or hose thereto attached were leaking, but the water in the bilge was distinctly odorless compared to the water that we were able to pump out at the sink fawcett. The water that was coming in was fresh lake water. The owner pumped it out, but it filled up the bilge again in short order. He pulled up the floorboards, pumped it dry, soaked up any residual water, and watched it refill from somewhere up front. He was able to trace it back to a hose leading to a through hull that at one time drained an anchor well. The through hull was just below the waterline and on port tack was letting water back up through the hose, and although it was plugged off, the hose itself had deteriorated and was leaking in three places. He was able to cut off the bad portion of the hose and reposition the good portion over the through hull and re-plug it, while I sailed the boat back to the harbour. The next day we were able to replace the hose, and go out again. The lesson I learned caused me to change out all my old hoses.
This past summer, we were taking my friends new to him (30 year old boat) out for a test run. We were about 15 miles out when we started taking on water. We had filled up the fresh water holding tank with water and a bottle of bleach that morning, and our first thought was that this old tank or hose thereto attached were leaking, but the water in the bilge was distinctly odorless compared to the water that we were able to pump out at the sink fawcett. The water that was coming in was fresh lake water. The owner pumped it out, but it filled up the bilge again in short order. He pulled up the floorboards, pumped it dry, soaked up any residual water, and watched it refill from somewhere up front. He was able to trace it back to a hose leading to a through hull that at one time drained an anchor well. The through hull was just below the waterline and on port tack was letting water back up through the hose, and although it was plugged off, the hose itself had deteriorated and was leaking in three places. He was able to cut off the bad portion of the hose and reposition the good portion over the through hull and re-plug it, while I sailed the boat back to the harbour. The next day we were able to replace the hose, and go out again. The lesson I learned caused me to change out all my old hoses.
That is a good example of what a crew should do when they
detect a leak. Track it down and deal with it. This in a new to them boat. There are stories of people in just that situation that just hollered for help and let the boat sink. Well done.
detect a leak. Track it down and deal with it. This in a new to them boat. There are stories of people in just that situation that just hollered for help and let the boat sink. Well done.
That is a good example of what a crew should do when they
detect a leak. Track it down and deal with it. This in a new to them boat. There are stories of people in just that situation that just hollered for help and let the boat sink. Well done.
detect a leak. Track it down and deal with it. This in a new to them boat. There are stories of people in just that situation that just hollered for help and let the boat sink. Well done.
Ross... when we first bought our boat
One of the things that came back on the survey was the hose clamps at the shaft log. They were rusty... and bad. I replaced them. I actually have a "monger" who gives.. gives me hose clamps because he is a sister boat in our marina. As I said, I need to pull up floor boards and take out the aft berth wall to do a appropriate inspection. I always check with my nose first, then pull up the bilge board, check the engine bilge. I do a preflight but... since my airlplane is checked out by mechanics for a major airline.. tis difficult to turn wrenches. They pay me to fly. On the boat.. tis another day. Cheers again Ross
One of the things that came back on the survey was the hose clamps at the shaft log. They were rusty... and bad. I replaced them. I actually have a "monger" who gives.. gives me hose clamps because he is a sister boat in our marina. As I said, I need to pull up floor boards and take out the aft berth wall to do a appropriate inspection. I always check with my nose first, then pull up the bilge board, check the engine bilge. I do a preflight but... since my airlplane is checked out by mechanics for a major airline.. tis difficult to turn wrenches. They pay me to fly. On the boat.. tis another day. Cheers again Ross
Ross... when we first bought our boat
One of the things that came back on the survey was the hose clamps at the shaft log. They were rusty... and bad. I replaced them. I actually have a "monger" who gives.. gives me hose clamps because he is a sister boat in our marina. As I said, I need to pull up floor boards and take out the aft berth wall to do a appropriate inspection. I always check with my nose first, then pull up the bilge board, check the engine bilge. I do a preflight but... since my airlplane is checked out by mechanics for a major airline.. tis difficult to turn wrenches. They pay me to fly. On the boat.. tis another day. Cheers again Ross
One of the things that came back on the survey was the hose clamps at the shaft log. They were rusty... and bad. I replaced them. I actually have a "monger" who gives.. gives me hose clamps because he is a sister boat in our marina. As I said, I need to pull up floor boards and take out the aft berth wall to do a appropriate inspection. I always check with my nose first, then pull up the bilge board, check the engine bilge. I do a preflight but... since my airlplane is checked out by mechanics for a major airline.. tis difficult to turn wrenches. They pay me to fly. On the boat.. tis another day. Cheers again Ross
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