I'm heading to the yard in a bit and I will be tying a line near the top of my halyard for lazy jacks. Is there a knot that for all intensive purposes, is considered permanent or semi-permanent? I do plan on wrapping some rigging or self amalgamating electrical tape over it for some extra security
I am Knot going aloft today
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
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What are you tying it to….or through? Makes a difference on what sort of knot is appropriate.
On my jacks, I have 2 small blocks mounted to the mast above the spreaders, and the first (and heaviest) Jack line runs up and through the block. One end has an eye in it (actually a small block), and the second Jack line runs through that. To loosen or tighten the jacks, I ease or tighten the bitter end of the first Jack line. It is cleated off on the boom to keep it tensioned.
So, how does yours run if it is tied fast up on the mast?
Greg
On my jacks, I have 2 small blocks mounted to the mast above the spreaders, and the first (and heaviest) Jack line runs up and through the block. One end has an eye in it (actually a small block), and the second Jack line runs through that. To loosen or tighten the jacks, I ease or tighten the bitter end of the first Jack line. It is cleated off on the boom to keep it tensioned.
So, how does yours run if it is tied fast up on the mast?
Greg
I was thinking a bowline with tape unless someone posted something better. No time for splicing or threading. Too many other projects and I don't have the supplies on hand
I bought Sail Care's kit that has a line running from the boom to about 3/4's up the mast. Instructions state that the height needs to be adjusted to tune the system. To avoid that climbing the mast ten times I ran some lightweight line up through an padeye, around another padeye 2ft higher and then back down. The lower padeye keeps the line close to the mast when the wind picks up. This gives me about 2' of adjustment. So in other words, one end of a line needs to be tied to a running line
I don't understand what you are doing, but sewing or whipping the tail to the standing part is much more reliable than tape.
Unless they are absolutely necessary to handle very heavy or unruly mainsails, Lazy-Jacks offer more negatives than positives. They will bring out those negatives every time the boat is sailed. Among the most annoying negatives, is trying to raise the sail among a narrow slit without getting the battens caught and the frequent adjustment they will need as point of sail is changed. This is just a personal observation and in no way any recommendation to do or not to do.
True ... sort of.
- They should be designed to pull forward in seconds. In this way they are used only for dropping. When you come in you drop the sail, put it away, and stow the jacks. When you go out, they are pulled forward, against the mast. I very seldom did this, only if hoisting singlehanded in lumpy conditions. Otherwise, "2" and "3" solved the problem. I would only pull one side forward, since the sail wwas slightly to one side and clear of the kjacks on the other side (or you can easilly make sure this is so).
- If you have full battens the jacks should be farther forward and have fewer lines (you don't need the aft part).
- If you have a lot of roach, combined with "2", you only have to watch snags at the first and possibly second battens. After that, the leach is aft of the jacks.
I ended up using a bowline with a couple of zip ties to secure it. Tape went over the zip ties in an attempt to reduce mast noise. I don't think these are going anywhere. Of course, I discovered a "halyard" knot afterwards.
Thanks for the honest review. I usually sail solo and when I do have people on board, I'm usually the only one who knows what they're doing
I like my lazy jacks, and installed them after I bought my O’Day 322, because taking the main was a real challenge when sailing solo.
Yes, you can catch a batten in them, but I have worked through that, and generally don’t have an issue with that.
The real joy of mine is that they are integrated with my Mack Pack, so I can drop the sail, turn the boat toward the marina, set the AP, and have the sail in the bag and zipped up before I even get to the dock. Leaving the dock is even easier…unzip the !ack Pack, put the halyard on the headboard and head out…
Imam still a little unclear about your rig set up, but if it makes sense to you, then I am sure it will work out.
My set up is probably a bit more involved than yours…bigger boat and I have 3 jack lines instead of 2. The only mast climbing I had to do was the original application of the 2 blocks on the mast…basically a few feet above the spreaders was the instruction.
Glad you didn’t get blown off the mast today!
Greg
Yes, you can catch a batten in them, but I have worked through that, and generally don’t have an issue with that.
The real joy of mine is that they are integrated with my Mack Pack, so I can drop the sail, turn the boat toward the marina, set the AP, and have the sail in the bag and zipped up before I even get to the dock. Leaving the dock is even easier…unzip the !ack Pack, put the halyard on the headboard and head out…
Imam still a little unclear about your rig set up, but if it makes sense to you, then I am sure it will work out.
My set up is probably a bit more involved than yours…bigger boat and I have 3 jack lines instead of 2. The only mast climbing I had to do was the original application of the 2 blocks on the mast…basically a few feet above the spreaders was the instruction.
Glad you didn’t get blown off the mast today!
Greg
To clear things up a bit, the manual specified a pad eye on the mast for the line that runs (almost) parallel with the topping lift. If I had needed to adjust the tension, I would've had to climb the mast and retie that line. Since I've never used a lazy jack system I know it will take some more experimenting than usual.
My modification involved creating a long loop between a cleat and pad eye. The green arrow represents the range of adjustment. The top lazy jack line is what I was tying to the loop yesterday
My modification involved creating a long loop between a cleat and pad eye. The green arrow represents the range of adjustment. The top lazy jack line is what I was tying to the loop yesterday
I cant draw like you 
On mine, the blue lazyjack is cleated off at the red cleat. To tighten ALL of the lines,, I pull that line down and cleat it off. To loosed ALL of the lines, I uncleat that one line, and introduce slack into the jacks. That line is pretty long, and I just coil up the loose end.
I can even loosen the blue line enough to pull all 3 lines parallel to the boom to free up my loose-footed main.
I got some VC17 on my rudder today, before the rain. Also replaced a shaft anode, and tightened the keel bolts… Hoping to splash in the next 2 weeks.
Greg
On mine, the blue lazyjack is cleated off at the red cleat. To tighten ALL of the lines,, I pull that line down and cleat it off. To loosed ALL of the lines, I uncleat that one line, and introduce slack into the jacks. That line is pretty long, and I just coil up the loose end.
I can even loosen the blue line enough to pull all 3 lines parallel to the boom to free up my loose-footed main.
I got some VC17 on my rudder today, before the rain. Also replaced a shaft anode, and tightened the keel bolts… Hoping to splash in the next 2 weeks.
Greg
I used a little program called greenshot to make that. It's good for making diagrams and screenshotsI cant draw like you
View attachment 214029
On mine, the blue lazyjack is cleated off at the red cleat. To tighten ALL of the lines,, I pull that line down and cleat it off. To loosed ALL of the lines, I uncleat that one line, and introduce slack into the jacks. That line is pretty long, and I just coil up the loose end.
I can even loosen the blue line enough to pull all 3 lines parallel to the boom to free up my loose-footed main.
I got some VC17 on my rudder today, before the rain. Also replaced a shaft anode, and tightened the keel bolts… Hoping to splash in the next 2 weeks.
Greg
The attachment height of your blue line to your mast is what I made adjustable
Four years ago I did a full application of VC17 the first couple of years and haven't had to do much since then. I can have my boat ready in a day or two but I'm holding off until I get the hull buffed and new interior carpet up on the walls
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,406
A halyard knot or even a couple of half hitches would surfice. But then to really make it simple bend the line over the fitting and whipstitch it into an eye. There really is no force being applied to the line. It guides the sails to fall on top of the boom.
Practical Sailor mentions the use of stitched eye splices. Stitching Instead of Splicing - Practical Sailor
That is what I used.
Practical Sailor mentions the use of stitched eye splices. Stitching Instead of Splicing - Practical Sailor
That is what I used.
This. Our new 2022 stackpac with integrated lazy jacks has been a great addition for solo sailing (which I do a lot). Also installed a Tidetrack: hoisting and dropping the main are exponentially easier.
Newly rigged (added some pvc to help straighten the stackpac out). Lake Powell - Dangling Rope Marina (abandoned in 2021).
re hoist - easy to learn to not get the full battens hung up: head to wind, slow down to maintain steerage and in 5 seconds you are past any snag issues. re: drop - very handy be able to depower immediately. and: no reef or sail ties, no cover and more importantly, no stepping up on the cabin top solo in snotty conditions.
Yes sir. I really like it - wonder how long the extrusion will last?
Our only issue was fit - the mast groove gate was too small to accommodate installation. (Tide folk even mentioned sizing in the instructions - of course I thought "yeah right"). So....drilled out the masthead, installed, sealed and re-riveted. (The advantages of a clorox bottle trailer sailer).
Slowly modifying the H260 for cruising comfort and safer solo sailing. Just perused my spare crapola box (prior to ordering 3 of 4 baby cheek blocks) and have almost enough parts for 2 single line reefs. W/ water ballast and a newer, heavily roached main, 10-12 is a pretty optimal reef 1 to keep the helm balanced.
Mrs. Snow (me too) would now like a small freezer. Electrics & fiberglass - what could go wrong?
Yeah, I had to open my mast gate a little to facilitate getting the track in the groove. MI couldn’t see it, but I had a small burr in there somewhere…I could not get the track up more than a foot or so. Pulled it back out and saw a deep scratch on it…found the burr in the mast hole, cleaned it and and then the track went up easily.
I do like the heavy SS slugs they use, and (on mine with full battens), the batten holders. Very solid set up.
You could get a little Engel portable fridge/freezer. Supposed to be very good quality (but pricey).
I am sure there are cheaper units for occasional use.
Engel MT45 Platinum Series Top Opening 12/24V DC - 110/120V AC Fridge-Freezer
Engel is proud to announce it has added an exciting new model to its range of portable fridge-freezers, the MT45 Platinum Series. This model is the new 45 quart fridge-freezer, with added features and fan. This new model also includes the user friendly digital control with LED display, as...
engelcoolers.com
What sort of diving do you do? I just completed my open water certification while I was in Hawaii in February.
Greg
Greg,Yeah, I had to open my mast gate a little to facilitate getting the track in the groove. MI couldn’t see it, but I had a small burr in there somewhere…I could not get the track up more than a foot or so. Pulled it back out and saw a deep scratch on it…found the burr in the mast hole, cleaned it and and then the track went up easily.
I do like the heavy SS slugs they use, and (on mine with full battens), the batten holders. Very solid set up.
You could get a little Engel portable fridge/freezer. Supposed to be very good quality (but pricey).
I am sure there are cheaper units for occasional use.
Engel MT45 Platinum Series Top Opening 12/24V DC - 110/120V AC Fridge-Freezer
Engel is proud to announce it has added an exciting new model to its range of portable fridge-freezers, the MT45 Platinum Series. This model is the new 45 quart fridge-freezer, with added features and fan. This new model also includes the user friendly digital control with LED display, as...
What sort of diving do you do? I just completed my open water certification while I was in Hawaii in February.
Greg
Cooler looks awesome. We are hijacking the thread - feel free to shoot me a pm. JT