Hey coolant experts...
Soon after we purchased our boat in 2020, I dove into the list of chores identified from the survey. One of these was replacing the hydronic cabin heater, which was badly corroded and nonfunctional. I isolated that loop at the engine (valve), removed the old heater, and installed a temp connector at the hose ends in case the valve failed or was accidentally turned on. At the time, I worried that I'd introduced an air gap in the circuit, but in three years I've seen zero symptoms of overheating (Yammer 3hmf).
I've finally found a replacement Red Dot heater that will fit nicely. But I want to avoid introducing air to the line after I hook up the heater. I've read the manual on bleeding the coolant line, but do I really need to do that? One factor, if it matters, is the presence of a hydronic water heater on a separate valve/loop. If you have some tips to offer, I'm listening.
Soon after we purchased our boat in 2020, I dove into the list of chores identified from the survey. One of these was replacing the hydronic cabin heater, which was badly corroded and nonfunctional. I isolated that loop at the engine (valve), removed the old heater, and installed a temp connector at the hose ends in case the valve failed or was accidentally turned on. At the time, I worried that I'd introduced an air gap in the circuit, but in three years I've seen zero symptoms of overheating (Yammer 3hmf).
I've finally found a replacement Red Dot heater that will fit nicely. But I want to avoid introducing air to the line after I hook up the heater. I've read the manual on bleeding the coolant line, but do I really need to do that? One factor, if it matters, is the presence of a hydronic water heater on a separate valve/loop. If you have some tips to offer, I'm listening.
