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Okay thanks for the advice. I had actually thought though that these were a production line yacht. It's just the arrangement for the hoist and remaining in the slings is only 48 hours to allow antifouling. I had been trying to put everything in place. However, thanks for the advice.Do not, under any circumstance, use someone else's dimensions for an expensive job like this. Boat dimensions will vary slightly for any number of reasons. They're not like a car.
If you're doing the job yourself, copy your dimensions exactly. If not , put the job in the hands of a pro, most definitely NOT a wharf rat
This is true, they are the product of a production line. However there are often slight differences between the same model boats and this could cause an expensive error.
Odd, don't you leave your boat on stands when bottom painting or anything more than 1/2 hour for an inspection and zinc change ? Here, that's the max time you can tie up the lift. How do you paint under the slings ?
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Hello and again thanks for all the thoughtful advice. I threw a blade in 2017 whilst away from home with Casper and she was lifted by a crane to get at the propeller. The original propeller was removed and I drew the shaft out past the rudder. The yard had a good, used volvo folding propeller which was machined to fit the shaft in the work shop and the shaft replaced on Casper and the propeller fitted. This was all done quickly in order for me to return back over the North Sea home and back to work. I have now bought a 20" Max prop more suited to the Passage 42 and will go through the same sequence of events.The propeller is used (although in almoast new condition, the taper will not match the shaft) and I will need to be matched it to the shaft. Hence my idea to buy another shaft and have the engineering shop machine both prop and shaft ready for fitting when lifted out. It will be a new stainless rod made into a shaft if you understand what I mean? It is actually the correct length and diameter I require.This is true, they are the product of a production line. However there are often slight differences between the same model boats and this could cause an expensive error.
Thinking about it now, one problem I can imagine encountering is the exact location of the strut. I can think of several minor differences in exact hull shape which COULD cause a slight difference in the strut location and hence a difference in the shaft length. Again, all possible slight differences.
Replacing the shaft is a major undertaking due to any number of corrosion situations you will encounter. You would also be replacing the cutlass bearing sleeve which is more time. Replacing the transmission coupling is also very likely depending on the corrosion back there. Take a look here to get some idea of how much work goes into just this one small ancilliary detail:
Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Sleeve Bearing) - Marine How To
The Cutlass Bearing Replacing a cutlass bearing is not a tough project but does require some thought. On some boats the bearing is inside the dead wood making replacement more of a task than when it's mounted in a strut. Thesemarinehowto.com
For the shaft replacement see here:
A New Prop Shaft - Marine How To
Cutlass Bearing Removal Every now and then a sailboats prop shaft needs replacing. Damage to the shaft can be caused by corrosion, bending or wear at the stuffing box or cutlass bearing surfaces. On many boats the removalmarinehowto.com
How about dropping the rudder to accomodate the shaft? Removing the prop which will not come off to save your soul ? Lapping in the old prop on the new shaft ? Maine covers all that as well.
Odd, don't you leave your boat on stands when bottom painting or anything more than 1/2 hour for an inspection and zinc change ? Here, that's the max time you can tie up the lift. How do you paint under the slings ?
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There are numerous things you can plan and prepare, before the boat is out of the water. When and IF I were ever to do this work on my boat, I would plan for roughly a week between out and back in. And that includes harassing the machine shop to get off their bloody duffs and get to work on fitting up the new shaft
Hello Terry, good your alive and Kicking Okay everyone, I'm guessing now I will wait for a major lift out and draw the shaft and take all the correct measurements.
For myself, I have never looked back and regretted overspending on a job when everything went to my satisfaction. On the other hand, I never forget and always regret when I have cut a corner somewhere and the final result was less than I had expected.
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