Hunter Legend 310 - new potential owner

[Marceline]

Hello - we are very close to buying our first larger boat and fallen in love with a Hunter Legend 310

It is a 1997 model with the GRP arch. We've been trying to find some info about it but struggling to find info online

Our main question was if the boat has an RCD Category - we are planning to coastal sail around UK and EU waters and so for our insurance we're needing a Category B, but worried it might be a C (or have no category at all)

The nearest I could find was a 1999 model rated as B, but with this being 1997 we thought best to check

Another question is - the cutlass bearing has was found to have excessive play and should be replaced. Also there was some water in the bilge around there so we guess the stern tube seal miht also need attention. Is this a difficult/expensive job ?

Many thanks for any info

 

[jssailem]

Welcome to the SBO Forum.
If you have the boat's HIN or manual, that would provide the definitive confirmation.

Looking online Hunter 310 — Information, Review, Specs
provides a statement.

According to the Hunter 310 Manual, the vessel was also built to CE Category B standards, signifying its intended use for offshore voyages where conditions up to Beaufort Force 8 and significant wave heights up to 4 meters may be encountered​

​

From the Hunter 310 downloads on the SBO website, there are copies of manuals. This information was found here.

https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_310_53974268.pdf

I suspect you could confirm the boat data with an insurance office. They would have tables identifying boats and the certifications the company recognizes.

You have some interesting waters to sail.

 

[Marceline]

Many thanks John and really appreciated. There's a real treasure trove of info there - very helpful thanks!

 

[Art12050]

Regarding your Cutless Bearing;
Yes, it can be an expensive job with the majority of the cost being labor. The actual parts are relatively inexpensive. The prop shaft needs to be remove, which may involve dropping the rudder. Make sure they check the prop for wear and determine whether it needs to be replaced.
Also, regarding water in the bilge, consider installing a drip less shaft seal while the prop is out. I had one installed a few years ago, best thing ever, no regrets. Prior to that I has the standard double bushing setup which required constant adjustment.
Good luck moving forward with your purchas.
P.S. We’re big fans of Wrexham.

 

[Brian M H23]

I own a similar boat, 1996 29.5. Did the cutlass myself, it was a bit of a chore.

I would recommend doing what you need to do to get the shaft in/out from the inside, which means moving the engine. These little yanmars aren't that hard to deal with. Then simply remove the prop, pull the shaft, replace the cutlass, reinstall shaft with new packing.

Also there are dozens of places that can leak beyond the shaft packing .... Rain finds a way