No problem! Thank you for all the help!
Was going to use both tape and 795.
Anyone else do it that way?
Was going to use both tape and 795.
Anyone else do it that way?
Hunter 45 CC cabin window leaks
- Thread starter Did It
- Start date
Yes. Did one side last year which is doing well and this year will complete the other side now using same products. I tried after seeing many recommendations on the web and watching this video https://www.boatworkstoday.com/videos/installing-new-fixed-portlights/. The black tape hides well behind the tint. My application was simpler because the contact area between the boat and window is narrow and the 3/4 tape was perfect width.
I needed to replace lenses and am within driving distance to Marine Hatch Repair - Select Plastics in Norwalk CT. Dropped off old lense to fabricate new ones. Not cheap but excellent job and Tony freely gives expert advice.
He told me to wait until outside temperature had warmed up to a week of 70F days or the windows would pop out on the travel lift. That delayed my launch but was worth the wait.
Tom
I needed to replace lenses and am within driving distance to Marine Hatch Repair - Select Plastics in Norwalk CT. Dropped off old lense to fabricate new ones. Not cheap but excellent job and Tony freely gives expert advice.
He told me to wait until outside temperature had warmed up to a week of 70F days or the windows would pop out on the travel lift. That delayed my launch but was worth the wait.
Tom
Happy to have opportunity to share. McMaster-Carr had both the 5952 black tape (part number 8127A33) and the sealant.
Spoke with Al Fooks who works at Sailboat Owners and got some more advice. He use to work at Hunter FYI....
He never used the tape and has had good luck with just sealant as long as prepped properly. FYI, he also has the material to replace headliner and does know some people who do installation.
Here are some prep directions. see attachment
Preperation of Deck. Embossment Fig. 1 1. Make sure the window embossments were sanded properly, there should be No shiny areas. Preparation Of Plexiglas Windows Fig. 2 1. Sand the outside edge of the window with 80 grit sandpaper to remove hairs from the window and paper. 2. Remove the paper from the inside of the plexiglas window. (Beveled edge side) 3. Have someone hold the window in the deck embossment making sure the window is centered in the embossment. 4. From the inside of the deck mark the window opening onto the window with a pencil. From the outside of the deck mark the mounting hole locations onto the deck. 5. Remove the window and drill the marked mounting locations with a 5/32” drill bit. 6. On the inside of the window sand the area outside of the marked line with 80 grit sandpaper. (There should be No shiny areas.) 7. Clean the sanded area of the deck with acetone and the window with a clean dry rag to remove any debris. Installation Of Plexiglas Window Fig. 3 1. Apply a thick layer of 795 caulk in the window embossments making sure there are no voids or gaps (no white from deck should be showing). 2. Apply a thin layer of caulk on the sanded area of the plexi-glass window, being sure to cover the entire area. 3. Press the window in place and secure it to the deck using the designated fasteners. (Note: These fasteners will be removed and the holes caulked in the final stage.) 4. Clean up excess caulk with soapy water (inside and outside).
He never used the tape and has had good luck with just sealant as long as prepped properly. FYI, he also has the material to replace headliner and does know some people who do installation.
Here are some prep directions. see attachment
Preperation of Deck. Embossment Fig. 1 1. Make sure the window embossments were sanded properly, there should be No shiny areas. Preparation Of Plexiglas Windows Fig. 2 1. Sand the outside edge of the window with 80 grit sandpaper to remove hairs from the window and paper. 2. Remove the paper from the inside of the plexiglas window. (Beveled edge side) 3. Have someone hold the window in the deck embossment making sure the window is centered in the embossment. 4. From the inside of the deck mark the window opening onto the window with a pencil. From the outside of the deck mark the mounting hole locations onto the deck. 5. Remove the window and drill the marked mounting locations with a 5/32” drill bit. 6. On the inside of the window sand the area outside of the marked line with 80 grit sandpaper. (There should be No shiny areas.) 7. Clean the sanded area of the deck with acetone and the window with a clean dry rag to remove any debris. Installation Of Plexiglas Window Fig. 3 1. Apply a thick layer of 795 caulk in the window embossments making sure there are no voids or gaps (no white from deck should be showing). 2. Apply a thin layer of caulk on the sanded area of the plexi-glass window, being sure to cover the entire area. 3. Press the window in place and secure it to the deck using the designated fasteners. (Note: These fasteners will be removed and the holes caulked in the final stage.) 4. Clean up excess caulk with soapy water (inside and outside).
Thanks for posting that how-to @jim01749. That procedure makes a lot of sense, based on the window replacements I've done. I think the mounting tape might work in some cases, but could also make a huge mess when the sealant presses out onto the tape, depending on the geometry of what you're trying to install. The sealant should be applied generously for a thick (flexible) seal.
Also, the procedure discusses prepping (sanding with 80-grit sandpaper) both the fiberglass and window side before installing with sealant. I think that this step is extremely important, and might be often overlooked. The sealant needs roughened surfaces that it can mechanically hold on to. The surfaces also need to be cleaned up with a solvent, after sanding, to make sure there's no grease or sanding residue on the surface. I would reach for rubbing alcohol, which I keep on board for any time I'm bonding or taping something that needs to stick.
Also, the procedure discusses prepping (sanding with 80-grit sandpaper) both the fiberglass and window side before installing with sealant. I think that this step is extremely important, and might be often overlooked. The sealant needs roughened surfaces that it can mechanically hold on to. The surfaces also need to be cleaned up with a solvent, after sanding, to make sure there's no grease or sanding residue on the surface. I would reach for rubbing alcohol, which I keep on board for any time I'm bonding or taping something that needs to stick.