Hunter 37C Rudder Drop

Aug 27, 2025
3
Hunter 37C Bainbridge Island
New owner here of a 1984 37C. Will be replacing my rudder and am a bit puzzled by how the rudder is kept in place.

I observed the quadrant (as well as I could) and the rudder packing gland beneath. I have read former posts about dropping the rudder, and understand the quadrant must come off and the upper Delrin round bearing too.

My question is: where is the thru bolt into the rudder stock which keeps the rudder from dropping out the bottom? Is it solely the upper Delrin round bearing? Or is there something else holder the rudder in place which I can’t see?

Thanks in advance for your help. I will be doing a bunch of upgrades on this boat over the next 8 months prior to pointing it south.
 

Johnb

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Jan 22, 2008
1,464
Hunter 37-cutter Richmond CA
We replaced our rudder in 2019. I will post pictures when I get back home next week. Recommend you plan on replacing the log as well.
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,067
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
You are correct - it is the upper Delrin bearing, which is thru-bolted, that keeps the rudder from "dropping out". If the rudder is in good condition (i.e. not waterlogged) it floats or is neutrally buoyant. If you are removing the quadrant and bearing in the water, it is advisable to loop some rope under the rudder and winch it tight in case the rudder is waterlogged. New rudders are/were available from Foss Foam, Florida. The rudder gland can even be repacked in the water on a calm day. Sorry, I can't recall the packing size, but it was an ordinary flax, square packing.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,497
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
My H30 has a bolt through the quadrant and the rudder post to keep it from dropping out. You are on the hard right? Depending on how high your boat sits, you may have to dig a hole for the post to clear the hull.
 
Aug 27, 2025
3
Hunter 37C Bainbridge Island
Thank you for your replies, and a new question:

I am replacing with a new new rudder, which I expect to be more buoyant than the current one which has some water in it.

What prevents the rudder from riding “up” and coming in contact with the bottom of the hull? I’m not seeing any kind of spacer/sleeve between the bottom of the rudder stock and the hull. While the friction of the steering cables on the radial wheel/quadrant would tend to keep the rudder “down”, that’s not its purpose.

Anyone know how the rudder was originally designed from riding “up”—especially in a seaway?

(By the way, the quadrant came off relatively easily. The key was to remove the aluminum “C” channel which served as the rudder stop. There was no real corrosion between the quadrant and the stainless steel bolts bolting the two halves together. Lucky!)
 
Aug 27, 2025
3
Hunter 37C Bainbridge Island
So rudder successfully dropped and transported home. New rudder ordered from Foss Foam in Florida.

Takeaways (after digging a big hole under the rudder):

1. Once the quadrant/radial wheel was completely removed, only the upper “donut” Delrin bearing held the rudder in the boat.

2. With a friend, I ran a piece of 7/16” line from one side side of the stern (bowline through the mooring line gate), under the rudder, up to a snatch block on the other side, and then over to the primary winch in the cockpit. Had to mess with the length of the strop as hung from the stern push pit in order to get the angle from the snatch block to the winch just right.

3. Friend winched in the line which forced the rudder “up” slightly, allowing removal of the Delrin donut. Very easy.

4. We then assumed the rudder would drop cleanly if we then eased the line under the rudder. Didn’t happen. The rudder “stuffing box” turned with the rudder shaft and wouldn’t let go. My “stuffing box” does not look like the normal 3 bolt Edson-type into which you insert packing. Mine is a bronze 4 bolt affair that doesn’t seem to have packing of any kind. The two halves of the contraption were tightened down such that the whole “stuffing box” was rotating inside the rubber hose coming up from the lower bearing. There was no hose clamp at the the top of the rubber hose securing the lower portion of the “box”. Alarming, but I had a rudder to drop.

5. Applied some PB blaster at the interface of the “box” and the rudder shaft. A few taps with a hammer on the “box” and repeat. Still stubborn.

6. Removed the 4 bolts holding the two halves of the “box” together. Gently tapped a steel putty knife around the seam until I had separation of the 2 halves. Then I went below and twisted the rudder back and forth while my buddy eased the line a little. At first nothing. Then with a little more twisting the rudder started to slowly drop. In retrospect I could have tried tapping the stuffing box upward on the post after separating the two halves, but I had a general aversion to tapping too much on the bronze for fear of deforming it in some way. But the slow twisting of the rudder with its weight against the hose allowed the two halves of the “box” to slowly ride up the shaft and the rudder to slowly drop.

I’m going to try to figure out if there is a better solution to sealing off the rudder post where it exits the rubber hose on top of the “volcano”/lower rudder bearing. I can’t seem to find any proper 2.5” rudder stuffing boxes—like the Edsons—which are low profile enough to fit underneath the steering radial. Maybe, upon replacement, the new rudder post will rotate freely in the old “stuffing box” and I can get a hose clamp on the top end of the hose up from the lower bearing. But I have my doubts.

Any 37C owners out there who have solved this problem?
 
Apr 22, 2011
951
Hunter 27 Pecan Grove, Oriental, NC
This link might help:


My 84 Hunter 27 has packing in the rudder stuffing box. I don't remember if it had three or four bolts compressing the gland material. You can change the packing while in the water as it is above the water line.