Hunter 340 Head Faucet Replacement

[Nichole340]

Has anyone replaced their 340 Head Sink Faucet with any other model another than the original type ?
Is there a better option for the Shower Wand connection that is on the faucet? You lift the shower knob up to make water flow to the wand.
Mine has become nearly impossible to lift up and doesn’t seal tight, which make the wand leak when the water is turned on at the sink.
The faucet set is available here at SBO, but is there another set available?

 

[JamesG161]

Mine has become nearly impossible to lift up

Look under the lavatory for entanglements on the hose.
Jim...

PS: Tough to remove and replace too, but I know of no other retrofit sites

 

[Nichole340]

James,
My hose runs from the center of the faucet set up under the mirrored vanity and over to a bracket holding the shower wand above the toilet. So no kinks, in fact the hose and wand are like new. It’s the lift-up connection between the hot and cold faucets that’s the problem.
I really would like a nicer look to the faucets, but I think I’ll have to go with the original design replacement. Height is an issue also as the mirror opens down over the sink.
I just hoped someone had a better retro fit done to their boat.
But thank you for the help.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Check out RV supply stores.

--Peggie

 

[Nichole340]

Thank you Peggy,
I had checked RV sites and they do have the same style as here on this site. A little cheaper, but factor in the S/H charges and it's just about the same cost.
I did see a lot of through the wall style mounts in RV faucets with the same shower wand attachment. Nice but not for my particular use in the 340.
But it was worth a try.

 

[JamesG161]

Height is an issue also as the mirror opens down over the sink.

Thus my comment about a big pain.

It’s the lift-up connection between the hot and cold faucets that’s the problem.

I have similar issues.
There is a way, but you need a special crimping tool to re-attach the shower head to the hose.
Jim...

 

[markwbird]

I got a new at Home Depot. Works great. Check dims for fit

 

[kloudie1]

Any way to remove the fixture and clean and lube it? May have some scale build-up in the valve that can be cleaned out. Could be a bad o-ring ..

OR Dura Faucet DF-PL720LH-CP RV Lavatory Faucet With Diverter - Chrome (rvupgradestore.com)

 

[Nichole340]

Kloudie,
I like the design of the faucet you highlighted. I'll be at the boat later this week and get my dimensions. The overall height of almost 6", seems to tall to me. Once the shower wand is attached to the center post fitting, the drop down mirror is the issue. I've already adjusted the chains that hold the mirror, the most I can and still have an easy reach into the cabinet behind it.
But I'll know better after I measure again.

 

[joelm100]

Heads up: I did a swap with the galley on my H380 and had trouble matching European thread and PEX sizes. Everything was close, but not quite.

 

[jssailem]

Has anyone replaced their 340 Head Sink Faucet with any other model another than the original type ?

You sound like your on a path to a better solution.
There really is no reason to go OEM if you find something that works better. The original equipment was selected from what was available and met the price point desired by the builder. There are so many more options and choices. Consider the operating conditions and what you find appealing. In the long run you will find it more enjoyable than the original equipment.

It all is a compromise.

 

[sailcapt340]

I don’t know if you have completed the replacement of your faucet set yet or not. I have a few tips for you.
First is be prepared, on my 2000 340, they used galvanized metal washers and nuts. (I found a picture of the setup I had under the counter)
Removal was nearly impossible. I thought I could simply unscrew the nut. They were rusted and frozen on.
There is very limited space to use a wrench under the counter given the shape of the bowl.
Rust penetrating removers didn‘t work for me. They just dropped off and added more of a mess.

I removed the handles and the shower wand. With those off you can pry off the chrome covering.
Then I cut the plastic between the faucets. This lets you use a plier to hold on to the nut on top.
Use a lock plier under the counter to hold the nut and turn from the top to loosen the connections.

Remove the door to cabinet for more area to work in also. It helps, not the most spacious of places to work in.

Your new faucet set will have plastic nuts to hold the faucet on. BUT, they are bigger than the original galvanized nuts Hunter used. So be prepared they may not fit completely flush to under the counter. Mine didn’t.
Have some Plumbers Putty handy. A small amount placed on the nut will fill the void and seal the faucet to the counter.
Hunter used some silicone sealant under my faucet and in the holes to hold the faucet tight. You’ll need a razor blade to remove the excess from the counter and the holes. They were very free with the silicone back then.

I hope this doesn’t scare you away from the job, it’s not as hard as it might appear.
I just thought you would liked to know what you “may” encounter.

 

[joshw5144]

I used to have a 340. Here is what I did (my plumber best buddy did). Under the sink he put a mixing valve and ran lines into the hanging locker, mounted against the aft wall. The only problem is I was unable to change the temp on the fly. Once it was set, I left it as is. You could change it at the valve but I just set it to medium warm and left it. If I was to guess the cost I’d say $125 materials, and maybe $300 in labor? It was actually a huge difference in our comfort. We started exclusively showering aboard.

 

[joelm100]

Heads up: I did a swap with the galley on my H380 and had trouble matching European thread and PEX sizes. Everything was close, but not quite.

Indeed, today it started leaking at the Shark-Bite "Push-Fit" connection that I did last year. That style of fitting needs only an inexpensive tool to cause a compression style seal but as I mentioned, my Hunter's PEX is literally 2 or 3 hairs smaller than the fitting from the local hardware. Today I redid it with the clamp-on compression ring style that requires a special crimping tool. It seems much better and was pretty easy (once I anteed up for the tool).