Hunter 33 (Year 2007)

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roan

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Aug 20, 2005
48
Hunter 33 Montreal
Roan, One addtitional thing. I also have a three bladed prop but I have to keep it in gear (reverse) to keep it from vibrating. If I don't when I try to start the engine it backfires bad. You don't experience that? Could this be part of my performance problems?
I have never experienced a backfire. In fact, early on there was a dispute on the dock about keeping the blade in gear or not and the local dealer did some research and fould out that Hunter recommends that you keep it in neutral. When I say I sometimes vibrate over 6 knots. It is not bad but I can feel it a bit on the helm. I just know it is there, no more.
 

roan

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Aug 20, 2005
48
Hunter 33 Montreal
Just a few points re the H33 (2004 #208)
1. There is no way you can fit a larger headsail with this rig. The standard sail when sheeted tight on the inside track is hard against the rigging.
Even "filling the gap" by trying to put a deck sweeper on doesn't work as the sheet has to exit between the inner and outer shrouds and you will find the exit point becomes too low to work.
2. In racing in winds over 10 knots there is absolutely no doubt that you can point higher using the inner track. We can get to 30 deg apparent.
3. The best performance increase in winds up to about 12 knots is to use the standard cruising shute. Rigged correctly you can use it at up to around 50 deg apparent.
4 We have the deep keel and a fully battened non furling laminated main and the boats best competitive performance is in the 15 to 20 knot wind range where we can get to 6.5 knots close hauled and 8 knots on a broad reach. Reaching is where you can really clean up.
5. The worst competitve performance is in light winds and against currents where the lack a large driving headsail put you behind the fleet.
6. Where I think Hunter went wrong with the H33 was in having the mast too far forward. If it was in a more conventional position say back around 600 mm then you could get a better size headsail on for the lighter conditions.
One can certainly fit a larger head sail on the boat but it must be outside of the lifelines to avoid the spreader. There is a H 38 in my marina did that and as I said earlier, it is fast in light conditions.
Every boat is a compromise and it is clear Hunter with the 33, tried to have as much inside room as possible. Many of my friends with bigger older boats are amazed by the interior space in the 33. I agree the mast back a foot or more would have given more head sail. Also it probably would have made the boat less tender.
On the outside tracks, I can easily get 30 Degrees apparent especially with a bit of wind. I find the boat is in the best groove for speed between 30-45 D. While I can go less than 30 performance is sub optimal. Where I sail there are not a lot of tacks so once I get set up, I tend to work the traveller a lot to tune performance. I do not deal with currents. I have a shoal keel. Traveller also deals with tender boat problem. I agree with cruising chute properly set is the better choice than a bigger head sail in light winds. I do not like to use it over 10 knots though or the boat is too tender....too much sail. If I just sail with the chute and refurl the main, that tends to be balanced. As I said in some earlier post, you can bring the tack of the chute right down to the block at the anchor and it is like a big genny.
What I have been looking for to optimize light winds downwind is a bowspit. I find that in light wind the main can steal wind from the chute. I would like to get the chute further forward. There is one from Selden however I cannot see how to install it without condemning the anchor well. Anchor access important to me. So I am still looking for that. In very light winds one needs a pole to the clew of the chute to stop it from flapping around the rigging. It will then be ready to grab the wind when it picks up a bit. I tend to put it leveraged against the rub rail. I also tie a line from the pole to the life line. Lost a pole once!
What no one seems to discuss on this forum is angle of heel. For me the boat preforms best around 15 D heel. When I go over further the bow tends to dig in a bit. That could be because I tend to keep the water tank full for ballast as I sail alone most times. I find then when in a 12+ wind, having three or four adults on the rail really stabilizes the boat however it is not an option most of the time.

I am surprised that you cannot point higher with a deep keel and a full battaned main with head sail tight. I believe your observations, so that means a deep keel vs a shoal keel is not that important on this boat vis a vis speed.
 
Aug 5, 2006
121
Hunter 33 brisbane
more about going faster

Nick,

You bring up a good point about mast placement. As I mentioned before I am still a novice with this boat and it is driving me crazy. I really am not trying to blow anyone out but it would be good just to keep up. One thing I have questioned is the vang placement on the boom. It seems to be way to far forward on the boom to be effective. What are your thoughts? I have found that 30 degrees apparent is the best and most effeccient sailing. I have not used the outer track but once. I had wondered about the sheets thru the stays. I saw no way to make a bigger foresail work. If anyone has any idea please let me know. How about a spinnacker? Did the rep mention that? Would that rig thru the stays OK? (H33 #579)
1. Vang - I have a gas strut and the placement is essentially only in one place as you have to compress it fully and then attach it when the boom is horizontal.
2. Re the spinnaker sheets - They go outside everything and go right back to a turning block on the bottom of the arch and then to the rear winch. As I said peviously this is a great sail for improved performance on the H33.
3. Prop - I have a three blade feathering one which is very worthwhile for performance. In light winds it can be worth half to one knot.
4. I have given up on the idea of any larger headsail so my next mod will be a new laminated version using the same material (pentex) as the mainsail.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,945
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Roan, this is a picture from a boat for sale in this area. I haven't seen it in person but it is a Selden sprit. From what I can tell the sprit is removed when not being used.

 
Sep 20, 2006
2,945
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
1. Vang - I have a gas strut and the placement is essentially only in one place as you have to compress it fully and then attach it when the boom is horizontal.
Nick, did you add the gas strut. I know mine doesn't have it ( '05) but is available.
 

roan

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Aug 20, 2005
48
Hunter 33 Montreal
Hmmm. Looks like they remove it except when in use. That could work.

Roan
 
Aug 5, 2006
121
Hunter 33 brisbane
Roan, this is a picture from a boat for sale in this area. I haven't seen it in person but it is a Selden sprit. From what I can tell the sprit is removed when not being used.

That's very interesting as I have been toying with the idea of makimg something similar. I would be interested to know how long the sprit should ideally be for the H33.
 

roan

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Aug 20, 2005
48
Hunter 33 Montreal
Hmmm. I do not see where the back end of the sprit attaches. I would want the block out at least 4 feet from the bow of boat. In light air the main really kills the chute. I have been surprised by how little torque the chute puts on the foot line. I can easily adjust it at almost any condition. Why I comment on this, one could put the chute foot quite a way out as the pressure is not too great. I hear Hunter has a new stainless pipe set up. I wonder if they have a bowsprit instead of Selden. Leave that with me.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,945
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
That's very interesting as I have been toying with the idea of makimg something similar. I would be interested to know how long the sprit should ideally be for the H33.

Maybe check the Selden site, may have more info on sizes etc. They have a pdf copy of their full catalogue which may have the dimensions etc.
 
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