As a novice sailor and new 2 month owner to my 2003 Hunter 260, that hasn't seen water for 2 years, it wasn't taken care of and everything done was "how cheaply can I do it", or I'll fix it even if I don't know how. The battery needs replacing (it has 5-6 circuits going to the battery). Nothing electrical works. I want to do it right and probably relocate 1-2 batteries so they are more accessible, and then start wiring it and checking it correctly. I also want to eventually get a small inverter and 2 solar panels for it. Should I simply turn it over to an electrician or is this something I could undertake? Comments on 2 6-volt golf cart batteries in series vs 2 12 volt?
Your description matches mine almost to a tee, except I purchased my 260 in November. I also have two 12v batteries that are beyond dead. I have purchased two 12v AGM batteries to replace them, mainly because I don't want to be sticking my head in the battery hole and trying and see if the water level in the batteries needs to be topped up. As I understand it the reason you might consider 2 6v batteries in series over 12v in parallel is that you can purchase 6v batteries with more amp-hours than 12 v batteries. I'm moving all my lights to LED in an attempt to save amp-hours. A bus bar is what you need to remove all the connections from the battery terminals. I purchased this one
My boat came with a Chinese solar panel and non-functional PWM that I have replaced with a Victron MPPT 75/15. I would consider replacing the solar panel, but it seems to work and it fits the companionway lid exactly. There is also a cheap Harbor Freight inverter which I fearful of and will replace or remove very soon.
As to can you do it yourself, I think so. I'm in the middle of watching Seminar: Marine Electrical Basics. I've also purchased several books on boat mechanical and electrical. Nigel Calder seems to be an author with a high confidence rate by sailors. With these items, I am hoping to rewire my boat appropriately.
My boat came with a Chinese solar panel and non-functional PWM that I have replaced with a Victron MPPT 75/15. I would consider replacing the solar panel, but it seems to work and it fits the companionway lid exactly. There is also a cheap Harbor Freight inverter which I fearful of and will replace or remove very soon.
As to can you do it yourself, I think so. I'm in the middle of watching Seminar: Marine Electrical Basics. I've also purchased several books on boat mechanical and electrical. Nigel Calder seems to be an author with a high confidence rate by sailors. With these items, I am hoping to rewire my boat appropriately.
First battery postscshould be on top. Then you need to advise what electronics and what else the wires go to. Anything else on starboard inside companionway wall adjacent to electrical switches
6 volt golf cart batteries are built with thicker lead plates so not only do you get more amp hours but they can last longer and are much tougher. They are also true deep cycle batteries.
Compare the weight of a GC2 battery, same size as a group 24 battery, the GC2 is heavier due to more lead.
@rk1sails
Check out Maine Sail's threads on various electrical/battery topics at https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?forums/musings-with-maine-sail.135/
Especially the threads on AGM batteries, 1/Both/2/Off switches and Battery fuse sizing.
Maine Sail also has a website, www.marinehowto.com, where he has several articles on various subjects including electrical work.
The Nigel Calder book on electrical work mentioned by @disputin is very good as well.
As you get questions, ask away here.
Have fun!
Thanks @Ward H for an easy understanding describing the golf cart batteries.
@rk1sails Welcome to the forum! There are more followers of the 260 in small boats so you and Dustin may want to consider posting in Small Boats.
As a former dealer, I can say you have a spaghetti mess which you have on your hands. First, I would suggest unhooking wires from batteries and replacing them with posts on top isolated in the appropriate battery plastic containers.
If you have shore power, disconnect from that as well.
If you can help us by telling us what you do have in electronics and other electrical devices, that would help us to help you better
@rk1sails Welcome to the forum! There are more followers of the 260 in small boats so you and Dustin may want to consider posting in Small Boats.
As a former dealer, I can say you have a spaghetti mess which you have on your hands. First, I would suggest unhooking wires from batteries and replacing them with posts on top isolated in the appropriate battery plastic containers.
If you have shore power, disconnect from that as well.
If you can help us by telling us what you do have in electronics and other electrical devices, that would help us to help you better
I agree with Dave. Spaghetti belongs on the dinner table with a good wine. not on a battery.
As said, figure out what systems you have and start laying out a plan for power and management. Planning should take up most of a wiring project. Your boat will appreciate it. So will you when you need to track down a problem.
As said, figure out what systems you have and start laying out a plan for power and management. Planning should take up most of a wiring project. Your boat will appreciate it. So will you when you need to track down a problem.
Thank you so much for the input. I'm taking notes right now and will also get a few books. I used to be a home builder so I'm quite familiar with electrical systems.
Thanks again
Thanks again
This book has a very nice section on marine electrical issues plus other useful stuff you may need to read up on.
I've read it and can personally recommend it...
https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
This one has been touted as a very good book on the subject but I have not read it so you should read the reviews for yourself if you think you want to buy it.
https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-M...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y1RPG1JKK5DQSV3SP5AR
I've read it and can personally recommend it...
https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
This one has been touted as a very good book on the subject but I have not read it so you should read the reviews for yourself if you think you want to buy it.
https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-M...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y1RPG1JKK5DQSV3SP5AR
What I do have now in electrical and electronics!
The Hunter 260 has no electronics right now, nothing, not even a depth meter or gps. It came with a kinda old looking 2 way radio hanging in the galley and an old FM radio mounted to the ceiling and 2 speakers that I'm throwing away. It has a std eqmt (looks like) switch panel by the galley for lights etc.-6-8 switches (don't know if it still works) I don't even know if the bilge pump works. I'm basically starting with a stripped down boat. I want to set it up though correctly with expansion in mind and easily accessible. The 9 hp outboard is electric start which is also hooked into the old dead battery. Right now my goal is to get it to a basic state of completeness so we can put it in the water with no fear the pump doesn't work or radio doesn't work or motor doesn't start. We're semi-retired and want to transform it into a comfortable weekend cruising sailboat for day and over night trips to local islands on the FL west coast (Sarasota based). After I set it up correctly I will add, a small head Vacuflush system, a pump to pressurize the water tank, an inverter for overnight comforts like a small TV, like to get solar for panels and eventually gps, depth, wind, etc. These will happen over a few years (cash-flow). The 260 sits on a trailer in a marina all the time when just being stored, vs in the water, and we are only in Sarasota Nov-May, and then we go elsewhere in the where it's cooler. I new to sailboats and don't even know where the ground is.
The Hunter 260 has no electronics right now, nothing, not even a depth meter or gps. It came with a kinda old looking 2 way radio hanging in the galley and an old FM radio mounted to the ceiling and 2 speakers that I'm throwing away. It has a std eqmt (looks like) switch panel by the galley for lights etc.-6-8 switches (don't know if it still works) I don't even know if the bilge pump works. I'm basically starting with a stripped down boat. I want to set it up though correctly with expansion in mind and easily accessible. The 9 hp outboard is electric start which is also hooked into the old dead battery. Right now my goal is to get it to a basic state of completeness so we can put it in the water with no fear the pump doesn't work or radio doesn't work or motor doesn't start. We're semi-retired and want to transform it into a comfortable weekend cruising sailboat for day and over night trips to local islands on the FL west coast (Sarasota based). After I set it up correctly I will add, a small head Vacuflush system, a pump to pressurize the water tank, an inverter for overnight comforts like a small TV, like to get solar for panels and eventually gps, depth, wind, etc. These will happen over a few years (cash-flow). The 260 sits on a trailer in a marina all the time when just being stored, vs in the water, and we are only in Sarasota Nov-May, and then we go elsewhere in the where it's cooler. I new to sailboats and don't even know where the ground is.
It sounds like you have future plans that are more elaborate than the original set-up. I'm not familiar with the boat, so I wonder if it is wired for AC shore power. You don't mention it so I guess, probably not. Will you keep the boat at a slip with shore power? That may influence what you do.
Ward's reading materials are a must. You'll be able to answer a lot of your questions.
So you are basically starting from scratch with a battery. Just one deep cycle grp 24 or grp 27 will serve your immediate needs and you can use it to get your existing equipment and some new electronics up to speed. 2 x 6v golf cart batts wired in series are a very common way to generate 12v on a boat. Start out by determining the space you have for batteries and make sure the batts (or single batt) will fit in the space. Small boats usually have space limitations that can make battery selection problematic. Our battery space doesn't have the extra height that is required for golf cart batts, for instance.
Most sailors that use their boat for cruising usually have a primary bank of batteries, which may be 2 x 12v batts wired in parallel (for more capacity), AND an auxiliary battery that can be used for back-up in case the primary bank goes dead. Some of us use the auxiliary battery for a start battery as well. In this case, you may ultimately want up to 3 x 12v batteries (or 4 x 6v and 1 x 12v). Do you have the space? You will also need to consider the switching mechanisms that will be needed to operate your DC power. Do you have a battery switch on the boat now? If not, or if you are really starting from scratch, then plan your switching preference. There are different ways to skin a cat.
It is best to purchase batteries at one time so they all have similar use when you start. I don't think it would hurt for you to get a single battery to start out with and get everything operating. Then follow-up by purchasing your primary bank as your system grows. You can then use the first battery as your auxiliary.
I bring this up because you mention the desire to add features like pressurized water, electric flush, inverter, etc. The more gadgets you want, the more juice you will need … or an energizing source for recharging frequently.
This is where shore power comes in. I don't ever consider using an inverter because if I want AC power, I plug in at the dock. I use shore power for charging the batteries with a charger, water heater, and a few outlets that I have in the boat. You may find that all your charging needs are filled by solar. That's another good way to go. BTW, you won't be pressurizing the water tank … you can pressurize your water distribution with a pump, but your tank will most likely not be under pressure (while it does feed water to the pressure pump).
Ward's reading materials are a must. You'll be able to answer a lot of your questions.
So you are basically starting from scratch with a battery. Just one deep cycle grp 24 or grp 27 will serve your immediate needs and you can use it to get your existing equipment and some new electronics up to speed. 2 x 6v golf cart batts wired in series are a very common way to generate 12v on a boat. Start out by determining the space you have for batteries and make sure the batts (or single batt) will fit in the space. Small boats usually have space limitations that can make battery selection problematic. Our battery space doesn't have the extra height that is required for golf cart batts, for instance.
Most sailors that use their boat for cruising usually have a primary bank of batteries, which may be 2 x 12v batts wired in parallel (for more capacity), AND an auxiliary battery that can be used for back-up in case the primary bank goes dead. Some of us use the auxiliary battery for a start battery as well. In this case, you may ultimately want up to 3 x 12v batteries (or 4 x 6v and 1 x 12v). Do you have the space? You will also need to consider the switching mechanisms that will be needed to operate your DC power. Do you have a battery switch on the boat now? If not, or if you are really starting from scratch, then plan your switching preference. There are different ways to skin a cat.
It is best to purchase batteries at one time so they all have similar use when you start. I don't think it would hurt for you to get a single battery to start out with and get everything operating. Then follow-up by purchasing your primary bank as your system grows. You can then use the first battery as your auxiliary.
I bring this up because you mention the desire to add features like pressurized water, electric flush, inverter, etc. The more gadgets you want, the more juice you will need … or an energizing source for recharging frequently.
This is where shore power comes in. I don't ever consider using an inverter because if I want AC power, I plug in at the dock. I use shore power for charging the batteries with a charger, water heater, and a few outlets that I have in the boat. You may find that all your charging needs are filled by solar. That's another good way to go. BTW, you won't be pressurizing the water tank … you can pressurize your water distribution with a pump, but your tank will most likely not be under pressure (while it does feed water to the pressure pump).
All those wires connected to the battery are not only sloppy but also very undesirable and potentially very dangerous. An accidental short can set your boat on fire. It appears that several of those small wires are not fuse protected?
Do you have a panel? If not, you will probably want to build one. Many of us have taken on boat projects to improve every aspect of our boat. If your panel isn't suitable you can plan on building your own.
Do you have a panel? If not, you will probably want to build one. Many of us have taken on boat projects to improve every aspect of our boat. If your panel isn't suitable you can plan on building your own.
Scott
I do not have shore power. The 260 sits on a trailer with 300 other sailboats in a secure area and then it can be launched from the trailer and then back on. The only way I will have to charge the battery(s) is to run an extension cord for a few hours while I'm there working on it to a GFI receptacle 100 ft away. Otherwise there is no other provision for charging. So, yes I will need a charger but shore power connectors I've seen have special connection ends, so for the foreseeable future I'll be using an extension cord. This is another reason, I'm considering a couple of small solar panels.
Space for batteries: Yes I do have various hollow areas and nitches, I just need to plan out the overall configuration and decide where things can go. Before writing in the forum, I was assuming I'd have to get an electrician to do everything. I'd like to do it myself.
Battery switch: No I don't have anything including no switch.( I did have one on the Beneteau 41, I had). I'm assuming I'll need to design the entire electrical system from scratch, and then install all the switching, etc on a say a 2'x2' plywood.
I do not have shore power. The 260 sits on a trailer with 300 other sailboats in a secure area and then it can be launched from the trailer and then back on. The only way I will have to charge the battery(s) is to run an extension cord for a few hours while I'm there working on it to a GFI receptacle 100 ft away. Otherwise there is no other provision for charging. So, yes I will need a charger but shore power connectors I've seen have special connection ends, so for the foreseeable future I'll be using an extension cord. This is another reason, I'm considering a couple of small solar panels.
Space for batteries: Yes I do have various hollow areas and nitches, I just need to plan out the overall configuration and decide where things can go. Before writing in the forum, I was assuming I'd have to get an electrician to do everything. I'd like to do it myself.
Battery switch: No I don't have anything including no switch.( I did have one on the Beneteau 41, I had). I'm assuming I'll need to design the entire electrical system from scratch, and then install all the switching, etc on a say a 2'x2' plywood.
To add to what Scott and others have said, plan your wiring, busbars, switches and panel with plenty of room for expansion. I like Blue Sea Systems components and panels but as Scott said you can build your own panel.
Their MRBF fuses make it easy to put a fuse on a battery. Their #2127 250A busbars are handy to get terminals off of the battery/batteries.
You mention electrical. A couple of differences between house wiring and marine wiring are:
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs
Their MRBF fuses make it easy to put a fuse on a battery. Their #2127 250A busbars are handy to get terminals off of the battery/batteries.
You mention electrical. A couple of differences between house wiring and marine wiring are:
- The colors used. Marine wiring uses red for DC positive and black or yellow for negative DC. Using yellow is preferred over black so it is not mistaken for AC wiring when a boat has shore power.
- Marine wiring, both DC and AC, should be tin coated fine strand copper.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Terminal-Tech-Specs
You'll probably enjoy the work. I like the instant gratification when you turn something on and it works!
Heed Ward's comment about the distinctions in marine wiring. There are many protocols that are unique to boating that should be known going into a project. Be careful crossing positive and negative wires. Before upgrading my panel, I was once working with the panel opened and the current energized. As I closed the panel, I must have had a loose negative that contacted the + busbar. It was startling how quickly that wire sizzled, smoked and burned right thru the insulation. That is a very good way to cause a boat fire and boat fires can be almost instantaneously uncontrollable. Luckily, the switch was right at my hand and I turned it off before the burned insulation started to flame. Keep the batteries disconnected whenever the wires are exposed and you are working behind a panel. In your case, you can't disconnect the battery if any of those wires cross. I think that's a problem.
Starting From Scratch:
I want to thank everyone for their electrical input and references, they are invaluable. I have been saving all the references, articles, etc to pdf everyone has offered and I’m ordering several of the reference books.
I think the next step for me is to first, on paper, lay out an overall schematic wiring diagram before doing anything else so something isn’t left out, and then upload and have you review it for input. The electrical wiring diagram would be laid out for the way it will be in a few years after I add solar, or whatever, so that I’m allocating space for possible future elect eqm’t expansion.
At the same time begin deciding where there’s room for the battery(s) and how much room and where the various elect devices will go and still be easily accessible.
I think I’d like to stay with this group, versus using the small boat forum (18-26 ft) even though mine is a 26 ft, because you appear to be more cruising oriented and knowledgeable, and actually “Disputin” and I both seem to be turning our 260’s into more of what you’d find on 32 footers.
Thanks again
I want to thank everyone for their electrical input and references, they are invaluable. I have been saving all the references, articles, etc to pdf everyone has offered and I’m ordering several of the reference books.
I think the next step for me is to first, on paper, lay out an overall schematic wiring diagram before doing anything else so something isn’t left out, and then upload and have you review it for input. The electrical wiring diagram would be laid out for the way it will be in a few years after I add solar, or whatever, so that I’m allocating space for possible future elect eqm’t expansion.
At the same time begin deciding where there’s room for the battery(s) and how much room and where the various elect devices will go and still be easily accessible.
I think I’d like to stay with this group, versus using the small boat forum (18-26 ft) even though mine is a 26 ft, because you appear to be more cruising oriented and knowledgeable, and actually “Disputin” and I both seem to be turning our 260’s into more of what you’d find on 32 footers.
Thanks again
The majority of Hunter 26 and 260 owners are primarily on the small boat section and many have been thru this. This is a trailerable boat with a little room compared to the 32 footers as you mentioned. Ok I will get grief for this statement but my experience comes from being involves with the design, introducing the boat and nearly selling 20-25% of the production line. By adding so much which in a sense is next to impossible but getting away from the true purpose of this boat, it will be a tight fit and expensive to the point when one day you sell the boat, you will not get back what you put in it. Of course the decision is yours but felt this needed to be pointed out. The first thing of course photos of what you have hooked to that spaghetti wiring and then go from there. I can help you with shore power wiring, heat and air, simple way to pressurize your water system and so on. I think wiring too much in a little space is very concerning. I have offered my help and if you desire, send me a private message.
Dave C
Dave C
Not specifically electrical input but you may find this link quite helpful as it pertains to your model
https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/
https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/