Hunter 260/26 Mast Raising

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May 7, 2004
75
Catalina 28 Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Hello all, I'm looking and thinking about buying a 260 or 26 sometime here in the future. What I'm insterested in is how hard are these to setup. I'm used to seting up a Flying Scott from a trailered configuration and it takes about 30 to 45 minutes to get the mast up. sails attached and the rudder setup. About how long do you guys that pull your boat take to set it up. Thanks Jasonm
 
M

Mark

Not long at all with a 260

From the time I arrive at the launch ramp to the time that I am actually sailing with all sails up is about 45-50 minutes and thats taking all care. I leave the main on the boom and just something like that saves another 5 minutes. The time between pulling into the dock and driving off home with the yacht in tow is about 20 minutes.
 
Jun 4, 2004
41
- - Macon Ga
The biggest difference...

I also had a Flying Scot and I think the biggest difference in setup and take down is just that everything is bigger and weighs more. It is more important to have someone helping with the 260/26 though the setup and take down can be done by 1 person.
 
May 7, 2004
75
Catalina 28 Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Adjustment

Did you have many problems adjusting from a 19 foot day sailer to the 260/26. I'm really interested in the boat but I am worried that I might be getting in over my head. Jason
 
R

Ron M

Your mileage may vary

The 26/260 is easy to setup, for a boat its size. However, not all of us are able to do it so quickly. I definitely cannot do it in under an hour. A friend who also has the h26 says it takes him well over an hour. Not doubting those who can do it quickly, just commenting that not everyone can do it fast. You will love sailing the 26/260. I came from the world of beach catamarans and centerboard dinghies. The comfort of these "bigger" boats is amazing. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
 
Jun 14, 2004
4
- - Flag Harbor, St. Leonards, MD
An hours a good rule

Plus or minus 15 minutes and I've never had the process go perfect. I've sent 20 minutes just trying to get the trailer extention arm back into place. The mast usually isn't a problem, but it is work.
 

MikeH

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Jan 7, 2004
153
Hunter 260 Perrysburg, OH
I agree to an hour

Jason, I have sailed & raced Rebels (16') and Lightnings (19') for about 25 years, but when my kids were old enough to sail but too young to appreciate a good heel, I knew it was time to step up to something more family friendly. The 26/260 was just the right size for our water and family. I haven't regretted moving up once, and my son (12) has now decided he wants to sail with me and also learn to race Sunfish. For me, that's a mission accomplished. As far as the mast raising, I could raise the Rebel's mast on my own in about 30 minutes. The Lightning's mast took about 45 minutes with two organized people. I've lowered my 260 mast on my own in about 90 minutes including all sail removal, etc. I've raised the mast with a second person in about an hour and all sails on and launched in another 45 minutes. I hope that helps. Fair winds. Mike
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
How to save more time

I imagine the 260 is similar to my H23.5 in this regard: I used to spend 30 minutes or more just fighting with the split rings for the shroud toggle clevis pins, getting them on and then off again. Then I found that most people here leave the shrouds connected when trailering, and just carefully let the shrouds go over the lifelines and secure the rest to the mast. ...RickM...
 
May 24, 2004
150
Hunter 23.5 Cypremort Point, LA
Yes to shrouds connected

Ditto with Rick. I posted that very question last year on the forum and the consensus was to keep the shrouds connected and just carefully drape them over the life lines and secure the remainder to the mast. I use lots of very small bungie cords to secure all the spagetti to the mast. Bungie cords are our friends!
 
Jun 4, 2004
41
- - Macon Ga
A note on srouds

The curse of mast raising is bending the turnbuckle apparatus. A good remedy for that is to attach some plastic tubing on both sides of the mounting point for the srouds - this will keep the turnbuckle from falling over and fouling as the mast is raised.
 
Jun 17, 2004
1
- - oceanside
Raising the mast more simply explained

still having great difficultly raising our mast. It there a simple way to raise her without busting a gut and what about lowering? Someone must have a sure proof method they want to share!
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
desert marina - where's the problem?

Your 26 and my 23.5 share the same manual. I do what the book says and don't have a problem (especially now that I put a longer sheet in the main tackle). Describe how far you get and what the problem is or what part seems like it should be easier and I'm sure the folks here can help. There is one trick that I do is when pulling the main sheet to raise the mast that is simple but hard to explain. Instead of pulling just the main sheet, I use one hand on the outside loop of the tackle and pull straight down on it while taking up the slack on the bitter end of the sheet with the other hand. The "outside loop" is the one that goes down and around the lower sheave and through the cam cleat. In other words, I have a hand on each side of the line that goes through that sheave and cam cleat. It seems to take less force then pulling just on the bitter end only, perhaps because it bypasses the friction from that last bend around the sheave and cam cleat. ...RickM...
 
R

Ron M

Tough start

I usually raise the mast on my 26 by myself. The only part that takes a lot of effort is raising the mast thru the first 20 degrees or so. If someone standing in the cockpit can lift the mast, it's a piece of cake. Another possible problem area is getting the forestay attached. If the mast was dropped when the rig was properly tensioned, it will be difficult to overcome the aft pull of the shrouds in order to connect the forestay. The simple solution is to loosen the forestay, connect and then retension it afterwards. If at any point (other than the first few degrees) things get difficult, something is wrong. Look around and see what's catching. Even the smallest snagged line can hold you back. As others have mentioned, the only real problem is bending a turnbuckle. Tie the shrouds off to the lifelines so the turnbuckles are held upright and you'll be ok. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
 
Jun 2, 2004
252
hunter 260 Ruedi Res.
45 minutes to an hour depending

on who helps. We trailer ours everytime we go out. The wife helps and we have got the system down. She does the cockpit stuff and hands me what I need on deck. Lots of bungees. I made a sling to stabilize the gin pole side to side at the base of the mast. After the mast is up the pole and bracket live in the truck, no more snagged jib sheets. I also extended the u bolt with a short piece of chain in the anchor locker. That way I can use the port winch to raise from the cockpit when doing it by myself. I leave all shrouds connected and secure them to the lifelines with velcro wraps or electrical tape, keeping the turnbuckles vertical until almost all the way raised and then releasing them. I bought a ball-lok quick release pin for the furler attatchment on the bow, that helps immensely. One note of caution, find a level spot to do it, dont try it on a sidehill. Its pretty easy once you get a little experience.
 
Jun 6, 2004
13
Hunter 26 Chatfield Reservoir in Denver
I use several turns of masking tape

to hold the shrouds to the taught life lines when ready to raise the mast. Then no worries about twisted or bent turnbuckle "tees." As the mast appraoches full up, the taught shroud tears itself free of the masking tape. And you are all set. As for dealing with tensioned shrouds, I thought I would be clever and just loosen the shrouds on one side because I have roller furler on the forestay. It worked great coming down, but on the way up, the shrouds disagreed with the little short temporary mini-shrouds used for steadying the mast. Had to drop the mast and loosen them up. When the mast was up I was then able to tighten just one side mostly. The final touches were done using a Loos gauge as usual. Jason, you'll really like the 26/260 for its space, but it'll be a lot more work to trailer sail. It is a big boat, and that means more time and muscle will be needed. The systems are all there and well designed to make it work as easy as it can on a boat this size. All of the major damage that I have ever done to my boats was when I was raising the mast. So my advice is to take your time and not be in a hurry in this part of your day. In fact, since I put Grizzly Bear in a slip, in order to force myself to take time and be patient with the putting in part, my rule is that I am not allowed to sail on the same day that the boat goes in! Fair winds, Jim S/V Grizzly Bear
 
B

Brigg

Winch the main sheet

I put a block on the bow pulpit so I can run the tail of the main sheet, back through the friction cleat, to the starboard winch. That way if I get tired of winching or want to move a shroud it holds the tail tight. My biggest problem is just remembering to attach the roller ferling jib before raising the mast. I carry the jib inside the cabin when towing. I also use ball-lock pin on the base of the forstay. I love Ruedi's idea of the chain on the "U" bolt inside the anchor locker. I've always had problems releasing the main sheet cam cleat buried in the locker.
 
Jun 15, 2004
78
- - Edmond, OK
Ball-loc on the forestay?

Ruedi, back in my Hobie days I was admonished not to use the quick-release ball-loc pins on anything that was going to bear substantial load, as they reportedly do not have nearly the shear resistance as the solid pins. I did so anyway on the forestay and have not yet been demasted due to failure. However, the 260 forestay is carrying considerably more load than a Hobie 16. Has anyone ever had one of the quick-release pins fail under load? Is the lower shear strength an issue, or is there another part that is still the weakest link? New 260 backed down the driveway this afternoon. Weather jerk calling for T-storms all weekend. Might have to just fill the cooler and sit in the driveway. Cheers Mike D. S/V Love & Luck
 
Jun 2, 2004
252
hunter 260 Ruedi Res.
ball loc pin

I've thought about the ball-loc pin failing, but I don't think it's the weak link in the forestay on a roller furling rig. Besides, when the rig wind loads, I feel the forestay loading doesn't increase substatially, the mainsail is driving the mast forward. Been using it for two seasons and been in some pretty good blows. Three links of 1/4" chain attatched with a quick link to the U bolt is the ticket.
 
Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
Might I suggest for the forestay

I used a shackle and hitch pin to attach. On my H19 I used a quick release and got de-masted once. This was becasue the shackle had spread open and wasn't letting the quick release to lock in properly. After that I went to this arragment. Don't feel bad Mike, My wife and I sat in the driveway many times having dinner and drinking wine. Could feel the boat gently rocking with the waves. Jim S/V Java http://www.ayesail.net/sailing/SailboatMods/BoatSetup/index.htm
 
May 23, 2004
9
- - -
One more opinion

I went from a beach cat to a Catalina 22 to an H26 as I went from being single to having children etc. Raising the mast on the H26 is not that big a deal. The only difference is the wieght. On the Catalina the mast itself was about 25 feet tall and I could just lift it by hand. The H26 mast is a good 10 feet taller and much heavier so you have to use the mast raising system. I learned to do a quick visual inspection before raising to make sure everything is right. The hardest part of raising the mast is getting it started. Since the mainsheet has the self locking cam you can readily stop at any point if you need to make adjustments, check something, or rest. I found that it is easiest to just stand in the cockpit and push up on the mast with one hand while I pulled the mainsheet with the other. It is amazing how much that helps. I do that for the first few pulls on the mainsheet. After that it is easy. My boat spends most of it's time docked in front of my house but we pull it out of the water to trailer to more distant places. The last trip was 11 days in the Mackinac Island area of Lake Huron (near the Mackinac Bridge) It can get a little crowded living with 6 people on the boat for 11 days but it is certainly workable. It takes my wife and I about 45 minutes to rig the boat and slightly more to take it apart (It takes more time to secure everything after lowering the mast) This is at a leisurely pace with no hurrying. It takes a little longer on trips because we may have 6 bikes etc in the cockpit while trailering that have to be moved out of the way so we can work. Overall we love the boat. It has been through some rougher weather in the Straits of Mackinac and similar areas without any trouble. I've made only a few changes. One was adding an LED light in the bathroom as a "night light". It stays on whenever the cabin lights are on at the fuse panel even if the individual lights are turned off. The other thing we did was buy a 70 quart 5 day cooler for trips. That lives in back of the cockpit while docked and rides in the aft berth underway. That frees up the built in cooler space for bread, cereal, and other supplies. Since they can be accessed from the side it also leaves more usable counter top space. I know I have digressed from the original question but I really do think that you will be very fond of the boat. Just be a little careful while learning because everything is bigger and heavier than you are used to. You need to use a little more seamanship and a little less brute force than people sometimes use in smaller boats. My first several dockings were done VERY slowly since my dock is shorter than my boat and ends on a seawall with very little available space to the side. I've found the boat to be very forgiving and very capable. I'm very glad I bought it.
 
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