Hunter 23.5 Hulu/deck/rudder cored?

[GGordonWoody]

I filled a few voids last year in the hull of my power boat using a Dremmel tool with a sanding bit to round the holes like Peter (isaksp00) said, and to take off those loose fibers in the underlying glass, and then finally to bevel the edges of each hole. I did use gelcoat and it wound up brighter than the surrounding hull, so like Sir Dave recommended, I wound up spray painting two or three of the highly visible strakes. I wasn't sure about which paint to use, so I went with some left over white appliance paint from Home Depot (epoxy, not enamel). It matched the white hull perfectly!

I found this guy on YouTube last year. His delivery is a tad, annoying, but he seems to have a pretty good following. I've seen his uploads on repairs similar to the one your facing. Happily, he may also have your rudder solution. In this four part series he's refilling a foam core rudder of a pretty big boat and talks about the different densities of foam used. He says some are like cement, which could explain the rudder weight on the H23.5.

 

[travelingjerryb]

So here is the first pass of my first attempt at glass repair. I'll refill the last few dimples this weekend, sand and paint. I think I can live with this. )

 

[travelingjerryb]

 

[travelingjerryb]

 

[travelingjerryb]

 

[travelingjerryb]

 

[GGordonWoody]

Hip-hip Huzaah! Congratulations on a great repair. Keep us posted on how it holds up. I have a few voids to fill and that looks like it might be in my future. Do you have any of those spider web looking cracks? I seem to have many and want to get them filled. My cockpit seats are just a tad soft, right where you step down off the house. I'm not sure what to do about those. Probably nothing, just stop stepping there - lol. Hey, how does your forward window look? Mine looks a bit like granite, very specular. And it drips just a tad. I might take that one on this year, we'll see.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

TR, you are learning and we will be glad to help you thru this. The major is done and it was not that hard. I would finish filling in the smaller voids to finish that off. If you want to put a finish paint on it, go to a store that sells Krylon and for the plastic paints find the closest white. Then sand lightly and wipe off with acetone or alcohol. Then mask the area off and lightly spray a few coats off allowing time to dry and then remove the painter's tape. What many do not realize you can hide the color difference where there are curves as it will blend in. Worked for me as a dealer and no one knew unless pointed out.

The stainless steel round object sticking out with hole in center (pictured) if not used needs a cover for that. It is a two inch double ended female fitting secured to the deck by the small nut on top and below the deck used for attaching a PL 259 cable VHF end. They make a stainless steel cover for that and I am not if it is Shakespear that makes it. Ok guys please help me here as to the specific mfg. number and good source to get one. It is needed to keep rain from going thru the deck via that hole.

Is there a dealer id on the boat say on the back, not the mfg id seen elsewhere as in hull id>

 

[travelingjerryb]

Gordon, my windows are less than perfect for sure but haven't noticed any leaks. If you do decide to replace yours let me know how you do it and how it works out.

 

[travelingjerryb]

Crazy, Yep little by little I'll get it finished. Hopefully I'll get a bit more time this weekend. Thank you all again for all the advice and encouragement. That putty is awesome! I think I'm probably going to replace the coax its in pretty bad shape already. Will find a cap for it also. Thanx again.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

You are welcome sir. If filling below the water line on the hull for blister repair I suggest Watetite as it is finer but it does cure slower which I found to be tenacious in strength and water cannot penetrate. In fact it filled in the small pores too well but it is expensive.

 

[GGordonWoody]

I suggest Watetite as it is finer

Sir, would you recommend this to fill the fine spider web like cracks that run along the smooth sections of the deck? Ah yes, it is a cosmetic repair, but I feel like one of Sir Dave's own is well worth the effort. How would you deal with these in the non-skid sections?

 

[travelingjerryb]

I really have no idea. This was my very first attempt at glass repair. My guess is that it would work fine? I have a small crack in my cockpit floor but wonder if I could replicate the anti skid finish.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

TR;
Please post photo of crack in non skid cockpit floor.

 

[travelingjerryb]

It's more of a scratch than a crack I think.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

It appears the gel coat is cracked only. I would attempt to dremel that crack to clean out the debri accumulated in it and then some acetone to clean out making sure not to really enlargeon too much. Then fill with marine tex. Then repaint the entire deck which will also take cleaning that surface. If you are not so keen on applying gel coat which is another discussion, then you could use the Krylon paint but the entire non skid surface would have to be painted. TR, please review and then send me a private message with your contact information and we will talk. This is easy but a little time consuming.

 

[travelingjerryb]

Thanks Dave. I will contact you when/if I'm ready to try this. I was hoping to finish the other repair this weekend but not sure it'll get warm enough for the Marine-Tex. Thanks again for all your help so far. )

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Your welcome and with the non skid you have that was painted on with gel coat originally. For those of you who do not know, the harderner in gel coat is a higher temp grade vs. what is used for fiberglass; therefore, you have to be careful as most store hardners do not work and if you do, the gel coat will be sticky and never fully dry. I recall once I took the wrong vial and coated a seat on a H26 specifically telling the owner to stay off due to the drying times. His pants stuck in the gel coat which ripped when he tried to stand up. In that case came the rags with acetone and off that came and the right hardner was used. as for the owner, I reminded him not to get on the boat and we laughed for years after that calling him Sticky Butt.
In addition the outside temp needs to be 64-68 F to dry which you should allow 24 hours minimum. If below that you will need to be in a well heated and vented and I mean vented building. I did try small area repairs during colder weather with a heat gun but froze my tush off and you had to be careful not to cook the gel.

 

[travelingjerryb]

OK, last post for this thread for me. All done! I'll add before and after photos. Thank you all for your help and advise. ) I think I can live with this, my first, fiberglass repair.

 

[travelingjerryb]

Before...