So I think our boats are quite similar in how they are rigged so I think I should try to explain what I do and let you pick and choose what techniques you want to try. Everyone’s style is different. I hope this helps.
I think the place to start is controlling the tiller when you are occupied with other tasks.
@CrispyCringle mentioned the tiller clutch which I have.
http://www.wavefrontmarine.com/
One of the main differences in our boats is the tiller/rudder setup. Mine is inboard and yours is hung off the transom. I can often completely let go of mine and it pretty much stays in position. I suspect yours won’t do that as much so the tiller clutch would be a big help if not absolutely necessary singlehanding.
When I am alone on the boat I sit slightly forward of the standing block for the main sheet on the cabin floor. I find this lets me trim the boat with my weight (180lbs) better than being at the stern. I can use the tiller extension, be close to the mainsheet cleat which I release with my back foot if it’s gusty and I’m able to reach my jib and spin sheets easily from that position. I keep the mainsheet tail aft of the standing block and change sides by moving forward of the mainsheet rig unless gybing.
I do this for two reasons:
1) Part of what drives me to do it that way is the handle for my tiller is quite close to the mainsheet rig and as I mentioned I can let go of the tiller for brief periods and it stays tracking. This might not work for you as you might have to keep actively steering,, this is where the tiller clutch will help. Set course, flip the lever to engage, move, flip the lever to disengage, set new course.
2) Keeping the rope spaghetti under control is a must when your flying the kite.
Basic maneuvers:
Ease trim of headsail. I color code my jib sheets so it’s easy to grab the correct one off the cockpit floor. While I remain sitting in my preferred location I put just enough tension in the line and then rapidly snap the sheet down and then up. This will uncleat the line from the cam and I can let it out to where I want and then a quick downward jerk to recleat
Ease trim of main. Hold the sheet in your forward hand, tiller in aft hand, put some tension in the line and step down on the sheet with your back foot to uncleat. Ease to where you want and recleat.
Tack. As I enter the turn I uncleat the jib the same as easing, switch sides and pick up the new loaded sheet on the way by. Trim the jib where you wish. Again you might need to use the tiller clutch.
Gybe. In light to medium air I leave the mainsheet trim alone and while standing behind the mainsheet, facing the sail I grab the mainsheet with my forward hand while I steer with the aft hand. At the appropriate time as I steer through the turn I pull the main inboard, duck under the boom and ease the main out to the other side so the main doesn’t crash over. Once the main is across I switch hands on the tiller and change the jib sheets as in the tack. In strong winds, because the main is so powerful I will either sheet in the main and then ease it or do a chicken jibe. I’ve crash gybed once in about 25knots and don’t want to repeat that any time soon.
I need to ponder your spin setup and try to recall all my steps so will pause here until I get that worked out.
Edit: Add the spinnaker handling part
My 216 came with an ATN sock. I’m not sure you have a sock but it makes flying the asym simple and safe. If you don’t already have one you might consider a top down furler as an alternative. This is my asym rigged for illustration.
A few comments on safety.
The foredeck on our boats is not a friendly place although your boat is improved from mine as the deck is textured, the cabin top is flatter and the rails appear higher. That said the more you can do while standing in the cockpit the better. Singlehanding and going overboard over the bow only to watch your boat sail away isn’t something I ever want to experience. I moor close to shore so while tied up I will often walk around the foredeck to acclimate in the event I have to go forward while sailing.
On days when I’m sure I want to fly the kite I will rig everything BEFORE I depart and once sure I haven’t made a mistake in rigging I stow it in the cuddy ready to hoist. When I’m done using it I also drop it into the cuddy and straighten it all out once I’m secured to my mooring. If the wind conditions warrant it and I want to use the aaym after I’m out it’s not too big a deal as I don’t have to go forward but it takes a while as I have to adjust heading so the process has more stop-start in it. The tack snap shackle on yours is attached to the furling drum with a little cable Is that just for transport? I keep my snap shackle and tack line looped back onto itself so I can reach it from the cockpit. I can’t figure out how you can reach yours without going forward???
I never fly the asym with the main down. Imho being able to blanket the spin is essential.
I mentioned above how I rig the sheets through the twin standing blocks so won’t repeat that. Again color coding helps when things get busy. The jib sheets are stowed in the little pockets on the cuddy so they don’t add to the spaghetti.
To deploy If I haven’t launched the kite in a while I might start the motor and leave it idling “just in case”. I engage the tiller clutch to keep my heading and try to stand on the centreline of the boat so I don’t “steer” the boat with my weight.
I raise the sock out of the cuddy using the halyard running through the swivel block - cam rig on the mast, extend the bowsprit and set the initial tack line length.
I pull the sock up and tie it’s “halyard’ to a cleat on the mast, if I can I also trim in the loaded sheet so the sail fills quickly and doesn’t thrash. Things get REALLY busy at this point but my priority is the heading as I don’t want to crash gybe or round up so if the asym flogs a bit while I adjust the tiller clutch that’s one of the “risks” of single handing
I return to my preferred position holding onto the loaded sheet with my forward hand, release the tiller clutch and go as FAST as I can. This is the part where I also unclench my jaw and start smiling!
To douse I set a course to blanket the asym with the main, go forward and pull the sock down ideally on the same side you launched from. You can use this technique to gybe or leave the asym flying and steer the boat through the maneuver.This is where I might stand on a sheet as I need both hands to steer and to handle the mainsheet.
To answer your original question about adding the cleat, I wouldn’t add them for the purpose you propose. Here’s my thinking about that:
If you have your jib or spin sheet cleated it would be on the low side of the boat when it’s heeled. To cleat, adjust or uncleat you would have to move inboard or if something jammed you would potentially be completely on the low side vastly increasing heel angle. The 216 likes to be sailed flat so not the best from a performance or for that matter safety perspective imho.
If you do add a cleat I would suggest a backing plate. The dock cleats on the 216 seem quite solid but they are attached with screws. I think Hunter added some wood in strategic places to let them screw pieces on during manufacture. They might have changed their approach with the redesign in your boat but if not there might not be solid structure to just screw the cleat on in the location you want.
