Hunter 170 Left Jib Cleat loose

Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
Can anyone offer help in reattaching a loose left jib cleat. We noticed it after sailing over the weekend. Of the 3 stainless screws, 2 were very lose. In fact, the holes look like they are no longer holding the threading of the screws.
What would you suggest is the best way to reattach the screws? Should I consider a larger diameter screw? Is there a material I can put in the holes to help build up for better retention? I am unsure if Thursday decking underneath the screw holes.
Thank you.
Rich
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,470
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Rich;
Are you talking about the mast or the boat. Can you please post a picture and I will comment as I probably the guru here for this boat. I sold my fair share of them when I was a dealer.
 
Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
I don't see any backing underneath. It's a solid piece construction with no underneath access points.
Looks like stainless metal screws.
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,223
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Hi Joe, It's sealed with no access underneath. Thank you for responding!
If you can't find a way to install a backing plate or even fender washers on the swivel base.... I recommend going with a fixed cleat. You can simply remove the existing cam cleat from the swivel apparatus and screw it down by itself. I looked at pics of a few other 170's and they all had fixed position cleats. The swivel arm puts a lot of leverage on the base....especially if you sit or stand on it accidently.
To refit, you might try inserting an oversize mounting plate... using short screws and adhesive.... this might spread the load and give the swivel base's fasteners more \thread depth. Just remounting it the same way as before will probably lead to another failure down the road. Have fun.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,470
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Thank you Joe. I just looked to make sure. First, this basically is a plastic boat which there is a plastic sheet molded over construction foam and if there was access to the back, it would then have a couple of layers of fiberglass impregnated with is as regular resin/hardner would adversely affect plastics and foam. In this case, there is no layer of fiberglass. Behind it is a marine ply encapsulated. Joe is correct that the swivel cam cleat is an add on and if stepped on, used in swiveling to include up and down pressures and so forth only puts too much leverage.

I too would suggest the next size screw being careful not to overtighten as Joe suggested. If that does not work, repositioning slightly with new screws and filling in with caulk for example 5200 in this application. I would remove the swivel cam cleat and going back with the original hardware. If you do want to keep that, another thought is to drill to the other side using long stainless steel bolts with a stainless steel backing plate. As for the nuts, I would use nylon to help prevent from backing out along with lock washers. I would again use 5200 but you would have to slightly scratch the surface and clean off with alcohol and when screwing down be carefull not to overtighten. Never use acetone on this boat due to plastics, Also do not allow the bolt head to extend beyond the nut. Before going this route first is to see if you can find the correct long enough bolts. West Marine use to carry a good supply but Fastenal may be another source. Others may chime in here as to where to look as well. That pretty much sums it up. Keep us posted as to what you want to do.
 
Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
Thank you for your advice Joe! Sounds logical to have a fixed position cleat and a larger base for disbursement.
Appreciate it!
 
Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
Dave,
Thanks as well! I'm not sure I understand to "drill to the other side"? Is that to assume the other side jib cleat may loosen and this is for prevention?
It seems logical to go with a slightly larger stainless crew with adhesive. Open to all insights.
Thanks!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,470
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Send me a private email with telephone number referencing H170 swivel cam cleat and we will have a discussion and go from there. Sometimes it takes too long to keep typing and I have a lot for example to do today going to the church and taking care of the large yard, attending a funeral and then as the old scrappy dishwasher for a dinner afterwards when they let me out of the looney bin for working with a bad back. Old fartitis is setting in.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Putting a X-treme 180 degree fair lead on the Harkin cleat will give you almost all of the benies of the swivel with none of the extra leverage on the base.

 
Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
Thank you Jack! It looks logical. I am new to sailing...would you drill holes opposite to the current holes? I am a newbie....
Thanks again!
Rich
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
The cage needs no new/extra holes, it mounts on top of the cleat bolts. I assume that there were holes for the original factory cleat at one time, before the PO put the swivel on. They may be filled and you might have to re-drill.
 
Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
Thanks again Jack. I will see if I can find a you tube video that may show how and what to fill the holes with. Looks like a plastic material and there are currently 3 holes.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,279
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
If what is behind the molded plastic of the deck is encapsulated plywood, and some of the existing wood screws are loose, I'd unscrew them all and see what the condition of the screw holes is. Perhaps you could drill them to a larger hole size and insert a wood dowel or maybe even epoxy. Then drill new screw holes of the proper diameter. I'd seal under whatever fitting you choose (eg the one Jackdaw suggested) with something like butyl rubber "tape".
 
Aug 30, 2016
12
Hunter 170 NE Ohio
Isaksp00,
Thank you for your thoughts. I do not see any backing below the molded plastic. I like the ideas that you all provided. I wish the boat was at my home to work on it now. I will look into the butyl rubber tape.
Again, thanks!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,470
-na -NA Anywhere USA
will be talking with him soon as there are some other questions to ask but great thanks to Jackdaw as that is exactly what I was going to suggest but the photo and part number is very much appreciated my friend. Again thank you Thank you Jackdaw.
Isaksp00, that is the first thing to see if that is possible. I am concerned the wood might be rotted if water penetrated into that. Will keep you all posted.