First off apologies if this is a redundant topic for this thread. We just sailed our new (to us) 2000 Catalina 310 home yesterday. We had 2 days of 20+ knot winds and buried the port windows (that are located in the hull) all throughout the day. We noticed moisture around one of the windows, pulled the trim off and it was quite wet. Checked the other side and same thing. After reviewing many hours of YouTube videos, I'm still not sure of the fix for this particular window. I can see that the screws of the interior frame will disengage it from the frame on the outside. Do I then need to dig in under the exterior frame and release the sealant from the hull? If so, can I still use the same window and frame after cleaning everything up and resealing. It seems that marine grade silicone sealant is the proper material to use. Being that both windows are leaking, it seems as tho this may be a somewhat common issue for this model of window/boat. I could really use some back up here, as I am a total rookie regarding port window leaks.
hull port (windows) leaking
- Thread starter Jerry1956
- Start date
That's a Lewmar 1 RE fixed light, if leaking from frame you'll have to remove outer frames and clean the surface and rebed, I'm not a fan of silicone, I'd have guessed butyl but it has little adhesion strength. I'll post a link to their instruction page which says
"Bedding compound must have good adhesive qualities (eg. silicone sealant), be a suitable grade for marine sealing applications, of 3mm minimum thickness and compressible to allow the outer frame to be pulled down in contact with the deck by the securing screws "
There is also a seal at the lens/frame that would probably require replacement if it is the leak source.
https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/files/Manual-B5960-E.pdf
"Bedding compound must have good adhesive qualities (eg. silicone sealant), be a suitable grade for marine sealing applications, of 3mm minimum thickness and compressible to allow the outer frame to be pulled down in contact with the deck by the securing screws "
There is also a seal at the lens/frame that would probably require replacement if it is the leak source.
https://www.lewmar.com/sites/default/files/Manual-B5960-E.pdf
Ted...thank you so much for your response. Aren't they recommending silicone tho? Why don't you like it? Do you know if I'll be able to use the exterior frame again after I pull it off?
They do recommend silicone Jerry, normally for hatches and portlights I use butyl. Perhaps the spacing of bolts is such that they would like something with more sticking power. You should be able to reuse the portlights, just be gentle and remove evenly so you don't rack or twist the frame.
I find silicon works, until it doesn't, and doesn't always stick well to gel coat and anodized Aluminum. I'm not sure what I'd suggest, see what's there when you remove them, because that didn't work.
Oh, if it's in butyl you should be able to remove by hand, other sealants may require use of monofilament or such to cut.
I find silicon works, until it doesn't, and doesn't always stick well to gel coat and anodized Aluminum. I'm not sure what I'd suggest, see what's there when you remove them, because that didn't work.
Oh, if it's in butyl you should be able to remove by hand, other sealants may require use of monofilament or such to cut.
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Yep, Dow 795 or 3M 4000 UV for this job. I assume there is a Sika product that would do. If it is hull to aluminum frame, I'd lean toward 4000 UV just because silicone (795) is a pain to clean next time.
I love butyl tape for most jobs, but it is not right for windows that get submerged. Butyl stays soft and submersion pressure can shift it.
I love butyl tape for most jobs, but it is not right for windows that get submerged. Butyl stays soft and submersion pressure can shift it.
Yes you can reuse the frame. Be careful that you don't bend it when removing it, then clean everything up. You want to cut the old adhesive as much as possible rather than just pry it off. You can use a thin knife such as a razor scraper blade or the disposable box cutters to get under the edge. You can also use a thin guitar wire to slip under the edge. There is adhesive softener you can buy, Google 5200 remover or this article
Removing 3M 5200 - Practical Sailor
Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.
www.practical-sailor.com
Don't forget to include Catalina Yachts customer service and parts department in your boat's resource list. You'll find the factory switchboard number at the bottom of the opening page on www.catalinayachts.com. Though I haven't needed any help recently (as in the past 10+years
) the help I received when I did need it was outstanding. Another reason I was glad I bought the Catalina. Good Luck... have a great time with the new ride.You'll have a hard time getting butyl to compress to the correct thickness. This might lead to a bent frame. It builds up adhesion over time. What about 3M 4200 or 4000?
May want to consider Lifecaulk as a sealant. It is polysulfide and used for bedding chainplates. I like it a lot and use it for all caulking & bedding on the boat. It is removable unlike 5200 and is a true adhesive unlike butyl.
I was looking at the properties of Sika-1A. It remains flexible. Has UV inhibitors. Works with fiberglass and metal. Can fill a gap upto 1/2 inch. No silicone. Any one used this stuff?
I used butyl tape (Bed-It available in the SBO Store). It works well when there are good fasteners holding the parts in place. One of my ports failed in a winter storm. Now it will need to be removed and resealed.
I used butyl tape (Bed-It available in the SBO Store). It works well when there are good fasteners holding the parts in place. One of my ports failed in a winter storm. Now it will need to be removed and resealed.
I used butyl on one of my windows. It's still not 100% flush with the fiberglass as the amount of force that it would take to compress it would destroy the window frame. I don't think a hurricane would be able to pull it out. The adhesion has built up over time. The following window was rebedded with Loctite Marine and it's holding up well after three years. Next time I'll probably use 3M 4000UV
@jssailem What's the cure time on the 1A?
@jssailem What's the cure time on the 1A?
It is not instant.
I think it will need to be in a mechanically fastened piece of hardware.
Tack over time is temperature related at 73ºF 3-6hours.
Here is the Data Sheet.
I think it will need to be in a mechanically fastened piece of hardware.
Tack over time is temperature related at 73ºF 3-6hours.
Here is the Data Sheet.