Bluewater Yachts no longer has these and are looking for another supplier so if anyone out there knows where I can get one, please let me know.
Hull/Deck joint re-sealing
- Thread starter vizwhiz
- Start date
- Status
My 26D has a foam strip type seal. It doesn't work very well. It leaks.
I would use butyl tape. Easy and no mess.
I have seen links to a company on this site in some thread... They have the extrusion you need. Try a search for it here.
I think from memory that this might be the crowd that stock the rub rail
http://www.wefcorubber.com/extrusions_marine_rub_rails.asp
Not a problem vizwhiz. Once you have sorted out which profile it is, and you have it on hand. do you think you could let us all know? Also the price of same. Many thanks
Here is a picture of inside my bow. I took it because I noticed the SS trim piece around the for-stay piece on deck was lifting off. I was concerned that things may be loose in there. There not. I am going to add a piece of 3/4" plywood and glass it in just to be sure. I'll replace the pop-rivets with bolts too.
The first pic shows the piece lifted... Also the cleat on my bow. I don't know what it is for. Or why it is there...
You will notice in the other pictures the quality workmanship with foam strip placement and resorting to using #10 SS wood screws instead of bolts.
The first pic shows the piece lifted... Also the cleat on my bow. I don't know what it is for. Or why it is there...
You will notice in the other pictures the quality workmanship with foam strip placement and resorting to using #10 SS wood screws instead of bolts.
Attachments
You might want to consider screws for the cover plate. With the stress on the stem head (and side stay plates), they tend to move a bit and shear the sealant. I use the size of sheet metal screw that fits the old rivet hole and don't tighten it down more than enough to leave 1/16 to 1/8 of sealant under the plate. I don't tighten it (or any screws) after the sealant sets up. Lasted five years and only took 10 minutes to reveal all of then.
Chris
Chris
Perhaps the cam cleat was used as a fairlead for your anchor rode. I looked at wefco rubber and couldn't find the right rub rail cross section but perhaps you'll have better luck.
-david
-david
Looking at the inside of the hull pics, you can see the roughness of the surface that is the hull-deck joint, keeping in mind that mine doesn't overlap that way, but instead the two roll out into lips that are bolted together. That rough surface is between the two and has to be sealed with something (butyl rubber soon).
Thanks for the heads-up on the rub rail. If BWYachts has stopped selling it, then maybe they'll give me their source's name and the part number or something that was used. We'll just have to see...
Thanks for the heads-up on the rub rail. If BWYachts has stopped selling it, then maybe they'll give me their source's name and the part number or something that was used. We'll just have to see...
Vis, try Tatoo Yachts. The kids have the molds form the 26M. I can't see them changing the rub rail. (I bet they can't find one any less $.)
http://tattooyachts.com/
They may be able to offer suggestions as to a manufacturer that was used in the past.
http://tattooyachts.com/
They may be able to offer suggestions as to a manufacturer that was used in the past.
89D Rubrail
I have an 89D model and replaced the rubrail a number of years ago. Found a super deal on ebay. My 89 is the overlapping joint, with an aluminum rail screwed in over the joint. The replacement I used was a TACO insert. Look at the highlighted on. You can get it in different colors.
I have an 89D model and replaced the rubrail a number of years ago. Found a super deal on ebay. My 89 is the overlapping joint, with an aluminum rail screwed in over the joint. The replacement I used was a TACO insert. Look at the highlighted on. You can get it in different colors.
Attachments
Just an update...talked to BWYachts today, and they are still planning to carry the rub rail for these boats (same for S, X, and M boats). But it was a product they actually purchased from MacGregor, not separately from the same supplier. When MacY shut down, the link was broken and BWYachts is trying to get the source info from Roger. I think it will just be a matter of time and they'll have the parts they were struggling with flowing smoothly again, including the rub rail.
Alternatively, I'm sure Tattoo Yachts will be using the same rail on the new 26, at least at first, so a source will eventually materialize for BWY.
Alternatively, I'm sure Tattoo Yachts will be using the same rail on the new 26, at least at first, so a source will eventually materialize for BWY.
Hey Chris, i'm about to do the tape, and i'm thinking that the awl poke step would be better done from the bottom rather than the top, wouldn't it? Also, probably while the two halves are apart , not after letting the two halves spring back together? What i'm seeing is that no matter how nice i try, the bolt will always extrude any tape left in the hole...
I suppose that's not necessarily a big deal since the whole gap will be sealed, and the bolt hole doesn't really need to be...
I suppose that's not necessarily a big deal since the whole gap will be sealed, and the bolt hole doesn't really need to be...
You may want to poke something like an awl through the hole first. It will make putting the bolt through and the nuts on a little easier.
Have you thought about a product like lock-tite or similar for the nuts? Were any of them loose when you took it apart?
With that many bolts you may want to put a socket on your drill to speed things up. Then you can just put the nuts on quickly and spin them the rest of the way with the drill.
Have you thought about a product like lock-tite or similar for the nuts? Were any of them loose when you took it apart?
With that many bolts you may want to put a socket on your drill to speed things up. Then you can just put the nuts on quickly and spin them the rest of the way with the drill.
I sent a sample of my rubrail (see cross section image) to Wefco Rubber and Pete responded that it is item #4812 in black rubber and he sells it for $3/ft with 1 week delivery. You'll need 50 feet. You can contact him at 818-816-8872. I have not ordered it yet, but at least we have identified a source if Bluewater Yachts doesn't come through.
-david
-david
Attachments
The other place to try is an auto glass dealer that also does construction equipment. I went to an Apple Auto Glass shop and looked through their books of rubber and plastic extrusions. I was after a specific window gasket that is $4 a foot at the marine dealer. I paid $1.15 per foot! The Mac rub rail is not rubber but plastic meant for outdoor/uv. It's also crucial that it has the ribs that engage the bolt heads/nuts or if wont stay put (5200 won't keep it in place either).
Chris
Chris
I contacted Laura MacGregor Sharp at Tattoo Yachts and she was willing to sell me a rubrail for my '95 MacGregor 26s. The cost was $2 per ft + shipping. She was very helpful and the rub rail was delivered quickly. I'm sure they are more interested in selling boats than parts but I really appreciated her effort.
She can be contacted here:
Laura MacGregor Sharp
Tattoo Yachts LLC
3419 SE Lionel Terrace
Stuart FL 34997
Tel +1 772 872 6761
Fax +1 772 872 6764
info@tattooyachts.com
www.tattooyachts.com
www.Facebook.com/TattooYachts
I have no commercial interest in Tattoo Yachts.
She can be contacted here:
Laura MacGregor Sharp
Tattoo Yachts LLC
3419 SE Lionel Terrace
Stuart FL 34997
Tel +1 772 872 6761
Fax +1 772 872 6764
info@tattooyachts.com
www.tattooyachts.com
www.Facebook.com/TattooYachts
I have no commercial interest in Tattoo Yachts.
Attachments
- Status