How to move a head?

[plenny7]

I think this is a simple problem with an easy solution but before I go drill new holes in our boat, I'd like to tap the wisdom of this group.

I'm finishing up the project of replacing nearly all of our sanitation system on our '92 Hunter 33.5. I replaced the Jabsco head with a Raritan PH SuperFlush. The mounting holes matched up between the two heads but if I leave it as is, I can't reinstall the skirt which goes in front of the head. I believe I have enough room to drill new holes behind the the existing holes but I'm concerned about those holes being too close and thereby losing some structural integrity.

Is there something I can fill those holes with which will set up solid, and then drill my new holes for the new location? Is that the route to go?

Here's what I'm looking at:

 

[Stu Jackson]

I wouldn't bother at all. I've been in the same place, old WC replaced with a Raritan PHII. I just put the skirt on the front, don't care about the back. It's stayed on for years now.
PHII Installation with Photos http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.msg45617.html#msg45617

If you think you must, fill the existing holes with epoxy (Marine Tex, West system, etc.), let dry and redrill.

 

[plenny7]

I wouldn't bother at all. I've been in the same place, old WC replaced with a Raritan PHII. I just put the skirt on the front, don't care about the back. It's stayed on for years now.
PHII Installation with Photos http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.msg45617.html#msg45617

If you think you must, fill the existing holes with epoxy (Marine Tex, West system, etc.), let dry and redrill.

Thank you for responding, @Stu Jackson

If I understand your posts correctly, you left the rear skirt off but put press fit the front skirt. I don't have a rear skirt, just the front, and the head is too far forward for it to fit. Here's how the skirt originally fit with the Jabsco:

I can either move the head back with new mounting holes, or leave it as is and store the skirt in my garage. My wife wants the skirt to be installed, so that's probably where this is headed, so long as I can convince myself that there is clearance for the toilet lid to flip up if I move it back.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Plan B idea: I strongly suspect that the only reason your wife wants the skirt installed is because it hides the bolts in the front of the bowl and base. So instead of installing the "skirt" (which appears to sit just far enough in front of the bowl to make sitting on it uncomfortable for anyone with short legs), why not just paint the bolts white or find some nice shiny white caps to go over 'em so they don't "jump out at you" when you look at the toilet?
--Peggie

 

[dlochner]

I ran into the same problem on a boat I owned. I decided that I liked the basic industrial look.

On my current boat, I rebuilt the pump and removed the skirt in the process, I think the skirt is still sitting in the basement.

Go with Peggy's idea, a little white paint or a decorative cap.

 

[plenny7]

Plan B idea: I strongly suspect that the only reason your wife wants the skirt installed is because it hides the bolts in the front of the bowl and base. So instead of installing the "skirt" (which appears to sit just far enough in front of the bowl to make sitting on it uncomfortable for anyone with short legs), why not just paint the bolts white or find some nice shiny white caps to go over 'em so they don't "jump out at you" when you look at the toilet?
--Peggie

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress I like this idea! I can also tell her with the skirt removed, it will make it easier to clean around the head. If I have to, I can even insert the word "for me" somewhere in that statement.

You're right, how it looks is a concern to her, as well as the fact that she doesn't like to deviate from what was originally there.

If I have to, I can always go back and make the move, but for now I'll lobby to keep it as is. The routing of the hose to the tank will be a slight challenge because the outlet doesn't exactly line up with the hole through the wall, but with the Saniflex, I think it can be done.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Glad you like my suggestion! You should be able to find white hard or soft plastic "bolt cover" caps in assorted sizes at a big box hardware store.

The routing of the hose to the tank will be a slight challenge because the outlet doesn't exactly line up with the hole through the wall, but with the Saniflex, I think it can be done.

If it puts ANY strain to one side on the hose, you'll either have replace the straight discharge fitting with a 90 or enlarge that opening. 'Cuz strain to one side will pull the other side of the discharge fitting up, causing it to leak...which, if you're like 90% of boat owners, you won't attribute to the strain, but keep cranking the bolts on that fitting down till the gasket (flange on the joker valve) puckers under 'em creating an even bigger leak.
--Peggie

 

[plenny7]

Glad you like my suggestion! You should be able to find white hard or soft plastic "bolt cover" caps in assorted sizes at a big box hardware store.

If it puts ANY strain to one side on the hose, you'll either have replace the straight discharge fitting with a 90 or enlarge that opening. 'Cuz strain to one side will pull the other side of the discharge fitting up, causing it to leak...which, if you're like 90% of boat owners, you won't attribute to the strain, but keep cranking the bolts on that fitting down till the gasket (flange on the joker valve) puckers under 'em creating an even bigger leak.
--Peggie

Great point. Here's what I'm dealing with at the moment, if I leave the new head where it currently sits. As you can see, a 90 won't help me make that connection strain free. Moving the head back might solve the problem, or perhaps I cut the hole larger to make it a straight shot to the fitting.

 

[dlochner]

Is there any slack in the hose? It looks to be a couple inches too short. Enlarging the hole would help with the angle.

 

[plenny7]

Is there any slack in the hose? It looks to be a couple inches too short. Enlarging the hole would help with the angle.

That's an uncut hose which isn't even attached on the other end. I just wanted to show the natural path the hose would take coming through. I have plenty of hose for this run.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

It's obvious that a 90 won't work (although it might if you add a fitting to lift it), but I'll bet a 45 will. And Dometic/SeaLand has 'em along with the threaded piece you'll need to connect it to the toilet. Check this out SeaLand Plumbing Fittings and Valves.pdf Whether you go with a 90 or a 45, you'd need the threaded pvc adapter to connect the street ell to the toilet...you'd use PVC cement to connect the ell to the adapter. Shop them, and be prepared for sticker shock when you see the prices...Dometic is VERY proud of their stuff! But you'd only have to buy the adapter if it'll allow the 90 you have to work...if it won't, you prob'ly can find a 45 in the plumbing department of a big box hardware store.
I'm very familiar with these fittings, so feel free to send me a PM if you need help sorting out how to use 'em.
--Peggie