How to fix Rotted Out Bow Eye - 1988 26D

Jun 19, 2018
5
MAcGregor 26d Trailer
Hi all, I have a new to me 88 Mac 26D with a rotten bow eye. What I mean by that is wood that was glassed inside to help hold the eye is all dry rotted and wet, it's barely there anymore, just shards and mostly disintegrated. Being that we will trailer our boat in and out every weekend all season, I would like to properly, securely, and permanently fix the situation; perhaps earn my Junior Boat Repair Badge in the process!

I have a gallon of totalboat 5:1 epoxy and hardener. I was thinking about taping off the outside and perhaps the bottom hole on the inside, then filling the cavity with as much epoxy as I can (using angled glue syringes) going through the upper bolt hole on the inside. I plan to fill it all in, then let it cure, then top it off with several layers of fiberglass tape wetted with the epoxy, to build up a larger stable surface the inside. I am very inexperienced with using epoxy, I have only done some experimental batches to see how it hardens, etc. I am specifically worried about a few things...

1. Do I need to do it in stages so I don't put too much mixed epoxy in and then get a fire or something from all the heat generated? I did an experimental batch in a tiny cup and it got so hot it was smoking and I couldn't touch the bottom of the cup. (edit: I was using the totalboat FAST hardener.)

2. Will the standard epoxy be the correct kind of filler that I can then redrill and put a new u-bolt through with a proper backing plate? do I need to add anything to the epoxy before injecting it into the area? I thought about using penetrating epoxy too, is that the better option?

3. Should I be removing all the internal fiberglass in the area instead of just injecting through the bolt holes, then cleaning it out fully of the old rotted what used to be wood? Maybe add a plastic block or similar to fill the gap then glass/epoxy over it? (I would hate to add more wood that would just rot again someday if it got wet). or just fill fully with new epoxy?

4. How long should I wait after everything is done, before drilling it out and installing the new eyebolt with butyl tape sealant?

Any other ideas or tips welcome. thanks so much!

This is what the holes look like from the inside:
upload_2018-6-19_9-31-26.png


And this is whats coming out of them:
upload_2018-6-19_9-31-43.png
 
Last edited:

AaronD

.
Aug 10, 2014
723
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
I'm not sure this is a good fit for your Mac, but on the C-22 and C25, one of the recommended upgrades is a Starboard / HDPE backing block to replace the wooden one. If the available space on your Mac is similar, it might be an approach worth considering. The block from Catalina Direct is cheap (https://www.catalinadirect.com/inde...lock-cp-22-c-22-c-25-bow-eye-c-27-bobstay.cfm), or you could cut one to fit your space from a block of Starboard. You can fill around the block with thickened epoxy (the epoxy won't really stick to the HDPE, but will fill the gaps and distribute the force to the surrounding glass). Hope that made some sense.
 
Jun 19, 2018
5
MAcGregor 26d Trailer
Thank you @AaronD, for the idea. Good to know those are available. I had pictured doing something like that but I couldn't find what I needed. I have an update, I was able to cut out almost all the internal fiberglass, and get most of the rotted wood out. There is still wood left in the top and bottom reaches, so I plan to use penetrating epoxy on those two areas, then use glass and regular epoxy to fill the void (its only about an inch deep). I will put clear tape over the bottom and fill it in a few stages so it doesn't get too hot. I talked to Jamestown distributors (TotalBoat people), and they said to do a half inch max at a time, then let it get tacky and start to cool, then I Can do the next layer (I also plan to put some glass in the fill to strengthen it... hopefully using 1 inch pieces across and up and down will work?) Once that's done, I plan to use a few layers of fiberglass sheeting over the top attaching to the hull on either side to give it extra strength. I bought an extra long u-bolt, and I plan to drill out the new fiberglass to the old pattern and use a wood block for extra grip on the far inside of the u-bolt, where the washers and bolts go. That way I have no wood glassed in to rot again. (I will try to post pics of my progress when I get home later)
 
Jun 4, 2015
32
Macgregor 26D Lake Country, BC
I had exactly the same issue in my 88D. I ended up using a dremel, chisel etc...whatever I could use to get in there and removed all the fiberglas and rotted wood down to the hull. I taped the original holes on the outside to stop runs and laid up a few layers of saturated fg cloth on the inside area extending a few inches past the hole area. I cut and shaped a piece of composite material called fiberfrax (I think) and glassed it in with a few more layers. At the same time I added a bow roller which now also is my front stay mount.
I used the original front stay stainless strap straightened as a backing plate for the bow eye and also ran it up to a bolt holding the bow roller. Drilled out the new bow eye holes, put on some new white gelcoat and now have an extremely strong winch point.
Have fun! Roland
 

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Jun 19, 2018
5
MAcGregor 26d Trailer
@Rowlando that looks awesome! How did you get rid of the liner to be able to see and work on the underside of the deck like that?? did you cut it away on the entire underside of the forward bow? Did you cover it back up after? is the liner structural?
 
Jun 4, 2015
32
Macgregor 26D Lake Country, BC
5DF83B14-91AB-4628-A5F2-5E1F94BF4A82.jpeg 751AA842-5DBD-4CD0-91BC-B90850440A15.jpeg EE257AE5-F7C3-4BF8-B5BC-0B1F84C71F15.jpeg I cut access holes and twisted my arms like pretzels, lots or four letter words were uttered.......
Actually it wasn’t that bad but it is a challenge. The boat came with an ugly 2 X 8 board as a browsprit with a hole for anchor rode/chain into the forward area......horrible! I had to do a bit of grinding and re-shaping of the foredeck to get the new anchor roller to sit flat but I am pleased with the way it turned out. The liner likely adds a bit of structural integrity to the hull but I think I left enough surrounding “flange” so no issues.
The boat was pretty rough when I got it......the rudder needed a bit of glass work to make it solid in the aluminum channel....it was very wobbly before but works great now. Also the chain plates and the.......58FB3C44-E5F4-4C6D-8B50-B012821AB216.jpeg well, you get the idea.....haha.
It still needs work, haven’t even had it out this year yet......maybe next week!
My job is retirement.....now I never get a day off!!!!!
Good luck, feel free to ask more questions. Where are you located?
 
Jun 4, 2015
32
Macgregor 26D Lake Country, BC
Note: I stuck the phone camera in the access holes shown to take the pics......all work was done thru the access holes shown. It is not as wide open as it looks in the photos! I wish!!!
 
Jun 19, 2018
5
MAcGregor 26d Trailer
Much appreciated, and thanks for the additional pics. I am thinking of doing the same thing you did down the road a bit... for now, I'm just going to get that bow-eye fixed. How do you attach the stay to the top of the anchor roller?
 
Jun 4, 2015
32
Macgregor 26D Lake Country, BC
I drilled a few holes in the bow roller flanges and attach it the same as to the original fitting. The mast raising system attaches to it as well. You can see the holes in the picture. I agree with you....get done what you need to and go sailing! You inspired me.....yesterday I took the winter tarp off and started getting ready for sailing! We also bike, hike, kayak, shoot, camp.......so much to do and the summers are too short! And last year forest fires really limited our activities....
Good luck, happy sailing!