If you can't get the tack socket screw out because the head broke off carefully drill a small hole in it and use a screw extractor to remove it. Use caution when drilling to avoid hitting the headstay inside. Unless it has been replaced by a previous owner the screw is a 1/4 x 20 x 3/8" nylon screw. If you have removed the screw and still can't get the tack socket out tie a Prusik knot around the lower extrusion and use your halyard to pull up slightly to remove the pressure on the tack socket, a little penetrating oil may be necessary to free the socket. If you'd like I'll send you my complete drive unit, #1 in the picture above, if you're willing to pay shipping from the east coast.
Hood SeaFurl 810 LD bearings
- Thread starter George Da Porge
- Start date
Hi! I'm new here AND a new owner of a Hood 810. Yay me! So to @Hayden Watson and others, I have a basic question. How exactly are you unfurling the jib? Unfurl using the line mostly, the jib sheet, both? In irons?
I've noticed when I unfurl the jib in any point of sail (other than irons) my line binds in the drum. Specially, the gap just above where the line lays. I think part of my issue is the drum is rotating too much, which I need to prevent.
My loop is rigged to the port side.
I have sailed smaller boats in the past, but am new to rolled furlers.
1987 Catalina 30
Thanks!
I've noticed when I unfurl the jib in any point of sail (other than irons) my line binds in the drum. Specially, the gap just above where the line lays. I think part of my issue is the drum is rotating too much, which I need to prevent.
My loop is rigged to the port side.
I have sailed smaller boats in the past, but am new to rolled furlers.
1987 Catalina 30
Thanks!
With my 810, I would completely slack both the IN and OUT line and then pull on the sheet and let her rip, with the wind in the sail doing the work. Occasionally, the drum would grab the furling line and stop turning but this was resolved by slacking the tight furling line. The faster the drum spun, the less likely it was for the furling line to grab the drum.
There is no problem with letting the furler fly on the dual line furlers. The same is not true with a single line furler because that will lead to a very loose wrap on the drum and over-rides.
My first thoguht was that the drum is rotating as well. A question to rule out another potential issue -- Does the spool fill up completely? Are you able to let ALL of the sail out?
The OP said he has a Hood 810 which is the dual line model and it uses a continuous loop furling line so the line does not wrap up on the drum. The drum is basically the a groove with teeth like you would see on the self-tailer on a wench. The line is in contact with the drum for 180º and when you are releasing the sail, it will usually sling out of the groove and allow the drum to spin rapidly. If there is any tension on either end of the furling line, it will get caugh by the teeth and jamb up. To get it going again, you just need to create slack.