Glad we could help. In continuing in that vein, please DON'T DO THAT, you'll suck you hand right off!!! Really. Get a piece of wood that's big enough to cover it, a 2/4 should do. Those suckers really, uhm, suck...:dance::dance::dance:
Help me trouble shoot my engine!
- Thread starter weinie
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Listen to Stu. If you try to stop it by choking the air intake, diesels create enormous vacuum. Even little ones. Use at least a 2x4, but it should be in good condition so it cant pull splinters out of it. Someone supposedly put a 3/4 piece of plywood over the intake on a 8V71 Detroit, and it sucked it into the engine.
Thats why if you mess with it out on the water, with it in gear, you wont have to panic shutting it down. If you crack open an injector line at the injector, it will lose most of its spunk. The second one will kill it, but you wont have sucked a bunch of air into the fuel system as shutting off fuel would do. And you wont have to fear sucking something into the engine either.
Thats why if you mess with it out on the water, with it in gear, you wont have to panic shutting it down. If you crack open an injector line at the injector, it will lose most of its spunk. The second one will kill it, but you wont have sucked a bunch of air into the fuel system as shutting off fuel would do. And you wont have to fear sucking something into the engine either.
Even easier, without messing with the injectors, disconnect the fuel line at an erasy place, like the fuel filter. It'll stop - no fuel.
I mentioned cracking the injector lines so he wouldnt suck air into the system and have to bleed it all. Even the best system can leak under that kind of suction. Also, shutting off the fuel doesnt always stop the engine immediately. Cracking an injector on a 2 banger, that motor is going to lose a lot of snuff, and its immediate.
I would have cracked and snugged the lines to make sure they weren't overtight, and have the wrench in my hand just in case, before I even pushed the start button.
I would have cracked and snugged the lines to make sure they weren't overtight, and have the wrench in my hand just in case, before I even pushed the start button.
Understood, but leaning over a running engine, for any reason, is something I would suggest avoiding. We like him, he's come so far! 
Yeah, but after almost 9 months I think he's about figured it out, and all without reading a manual! I like him too, and I would hate to see him hurt his engine after all the effort. And if he come's at it from the end, rather than the side, if it blows up he'll only lose an arm.
On another note, I would be interested in the cause of breaking that spring.
On another note, I would be interested in the cause of breaking that spring.
Well, we "could" call looking the Torreson website reading the manual. A reach maybe...
After all, he found the spring in two different places: one in the manual and the other in his engine!
From looking at my friend's M25 when it was in his garage before he put it in his boat, I'm just guessing that they dried out and one simply broke. They do get old, just like we do. Stiff in the middle and all...
After all, he found the spring in two different places: one in the manual and the other in his engine!
From looking at my friend's M25 when it was in his garage before he put it in his boat, I'm just guessing that they dried out and one simply broke. They do get old, just like we do. Stiff in the middle and all...
Listen you two... Just because you're impressed by my superior mechanical abilities, doesn't mean we'll be taking warm showers together until the wee hours of the morning!
Btw, from looking at the spring, it looks more like like fatigue than anything else. The broken ends fit together like two puzzle pieces and the spring (aside from where I yanked on it with pliers) doesn't appear to be stretched out. The broken ends taper off to broken, brittle points.
And before I reinstalled the stop lever cover, I manually moved the governor fork lever all the way aft a few times to make sure that the control rack moved smoothly when the stop lever is applied. I really don't expect a problem shutting down the engine though. I did recently verify that my insurance policy is up to date though.
Btw, from looking at the spring, it looks more like like fatigue than anything else. The broken ends fit together like two puzzle pieces and the spring (aside from where I yanked on it with pliers) doesn't appear to be stretched out. The broken ends taper off to broken, brittle points.
And before I reinstalled the stop lever cover, I manually moved the governor fork lever all the way aft a few times to make sure that the control rack moved smoothly when the stop lever is applied. I really don't expect a problem shutting down the engine though. I did recently verify that my insurance policy is up to date though.
Well, looks like problem solved!
Boat went in the water and it started right up. After starting, the idle speed was over 1000 rpms too high and I was able to push the engine a few hundred rpms over the maximum recommended value for a split second when I blipped the throttle. This tells me that my diagnosis was spot on! I reset the the idle speed screw for about 1100 rpms in neutral and the max speed screw at about 3200rpms. I think I'm good to go!
Boat went in the water and it started right up. After starting, the idle speed was over 1000 rpms too high and I was able to push the engine a few hundred rpms over the maximum recommended value for a split second when I blipped the throttle. This tells me that my diagnosis was spot on! I reset the the idle speed screw for about 1100 rpms in neutral and the max speed screw at about 3200rpms. I think I'm good to go!
Yes, but, but, but...you didn't tell us if it STOPPED!!!
Great work, have a great season. You deserve it.
Great work, have a great season. You deserve it.
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