Some observations
I hope some of this is useful... George's cabin top arrangement is quite different from Mergatroid's. George's 260 cleat is outboard by the stanchion. Mergatroid's is way inboard by the hatch, and looks closer to the edge than George's. More like Fitz's and my H23.5. Mergatroid - I wonder if you really need the wedge? It's easy enough to install without caulk to test. The test is to stand at the back of the cockpit and see if you can open and close the powercleat by flicking the sheet up and down. Kind of a snapping motion, like with a wet towel aimed at your buddy's butt in a locker room. Or, more PC, like flipping a garden hose or extension cord over an obstacle. Note - I find it harder to operate the cleat first time every time now that I downsized my jib sheets from 7/16" to 3/8", which I did to allow the sheets to fit a small-ish Forespar whisker pole. Wedges - As stated, the wedge has to go the right way up to mate with the cleat. I've always noticed that the holes in the wedge are slots, not circles, indicating that the intention is that the bolts will go through the wedge at an angle, to still be perpendicular with the mounting surface. However, if I hold the cleat and wedge together, I see that the bolts still cannot go into the deck perpendicular. If I flip the wedge upside down, which would require shaving off the raised circles to mount flat on the deck, then it looks like it might work. Some extra reaming of holes may be required. The countersink deepening and filing down/grinding of the head of the forward bolt (through the little piece) might have to be more as well. There is lots of room for the bolt head of the aft bolt. Oh, my boat is 90 minutes away, but I have 4 cleats and 3 wedges in my hand right now. I've bought 8 of these things. Four spares, two on the boat, and two for a friend. I noticed that after a while, they stopped coming with wedges. I see on the wedge itself, two are marked "Use with PX0611", one is marked with "Used with PX0812", but all three are identical. Those raised circles on the wedge that mate with the cleat (the 2nd circle is hardly noticeable), don't actually meet properly when I try to match the wedge with the assembled cleat. When installed on the boat, there is actually a small gap between the two pieces of the cleat. In order to get those raised circles to meet, you'd have to squeeze the two pieces together more than they seem to want to go, but as I said, I had to separate them a tiny bit when installing. Since the smaller raised circle is so small and not raised much, most people wouldn't even notice. George - I don't know if you're near your boat. The profile of the wedge is _nearly_ a right-angled triangle. If you looked closely, you might be able to tell if you mounted it upside-down, or just drilled through the wedge to allow the bolts to go through perpendicularly. The nearly right-angle is between the proper base and the thick end of the wedge. It's a bit subtle though. Another clue is that the wedges came attached to a molded plastic frame (like a toy plastic car model that has to be broken all apart). When you break them apart, you can still see the blemish at these attachment points (one at each end). When installed right-side up, these blemishes would be on top by the cleat. Upside-down, and they'd be against the deck and likely obscured by caulk.
