Your right... my bad. I was looking at the straight chain carbon list but the alcohol on the end of the chain of butanol adds "hydrogen bonding" and lowers the volatility a lot.Not to argue, but are you sure you are looking at Butanol?
http://www.ddbst.com/en/EED/PCP/VAP_C39.php
They weren't thinking.Another strike against the Ethanol project- it is taking from food production. The Ethanol demand has driven up cost for corn silage impacting the food sources for our dairy, beef, pork, and chicken. All of these protein sources are costing more because we've increased the cost of a primary feed. What were they thinking?
I just signed. Bought a Lehr propane for the dinghy in 2014. No problems since. My 2003 Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke was a good engine until ethanol. We don't use the dinghy much, even when cruising, and that may have been the primary reason it stayed gummed up. No problem with the Lehr. I do an air bleed, pull the cord and we are running after sitting weeks.
We've tried to close the vents on the external tanks on the pontoon boat. Had a problem with fuel being forced out of the tanks as the fuel heated during the day.Agreed. It was bad politics from the start.
Meanwhile you really can learn to live with it. I've done a bunch of testing for ASTM and mags and I've learned how to make it painless:
- Keep the vents closed on integral tanks and portable tanks when not actually running. Even an overnight rain can ruin the fuel. Been there. But no vent = no aging or water pick-up.
Have you considered covering them to keep the sun off? They will also last longer.We've tried to close the vents on the external tanks on the pontoon boat. Had a problem with fuel being forced out of the tanks as the fuel heated during the day.
Is there some type of value that will prevent this and still keep the moisture out?
We're currently pulling the tanks off the pontoon after every use and storing them in the boathouse with the vents open. This along with a fuel additive have solved our fuel problems, but it's a pain to always have to pull the tanks.
A valid point, perhaps. E10 does have a higher vapor pressure. However...Randy, time for some new fuel line snap connectors...or all new hose assemblies. Better yet, disconnect fuel lines when not in use. And if you read Thinwater, you need to keep that tank closed all the time when not used. I once left my fuel lines connected to my outboard and the pressurized fuel filled my outboard cylinders and oil sump with fuel. Disconnect when not in use, and stow.
That would probably help a lot..... I thought about painting the tank white .....
The tanks are the red plastic type and we were disconnecting the hose connection to the motor. With the vent closed fuel was still being forced out the connector. I suppose the connector could be bad, but we have 2 tanks and both are doing the same thing. We'll probably just continue to store the tanks in the boathouse between use. Thanks for the ideas.A valid point, perhaps. E10 does have a higher vapor pressure. However...
- The float valve in the carb must be defective.
- Installing a cut-off valve would be much easier.
- Covering them to keep the sun off should solve the problem. You can't leave the tank in the blazing sun.