H37C Standing Rigging

[Ed Schenck]

Yesterday I pulled some rigging off of my old Kenyon mast. I brought home the backstay and one each of upper and lower shrouds to get accurate measurements. I measured the furler while there since it is also my forestay(47' 9.5” pin to pin). While climbing around behind the mast rack I also took some pictures. I wrote an article for 'Owner's Mods' as a place to save the pictures and measurements for future reference. The stays are still in the trunk so the lengths are forthcoming.


This is only the second time the mast has been horizontal in the twelve years that I have owned Ladylove. I remain impressed by how beefy the mast and connectors(tangs) are. Since I don't know how old the wire is I will replace it all except for the running backstays and babystay. I had an expert tell me that the turnbuckles and U-connectors are fine. I will send the information out for some estimates but will probably end up at Seco South. But now I have the data for ordering my new Harken furler from Phil and Company.

Note: that forestay length of 47' 9.5" does not include the 'U' connectors seen in the mast top and furler photos. It is pin to pin. The second photo is the upper shroud, the third photo is lower shrouds.

 

[Ed Schenck]

While this mast is horizontal I will naturally be checking the lights. I ran all new internal wire in 2001 and added the wind transducers. So besides the new standing rigging is the issue of "ugliness". I don't have time to paint the mast but would like to touch up the bare spots. Any suggestions on what to use to get a decent match?

 

[med2463]

nice pix Ed. I washed and primed my mast both sides 2 coats in a couple of hours. Finished with 1 part Interlux urethene (brightside?) on a 3 inch roller. By the time I reached the end of the mast, it was tacky. Went back to the other end, diid that side again. Total about 3 hours. next trip, Ii rolled the mast over, put 2 coats of urethene n the other side in about 20 minutes. Not perfect by any means but it shines like crazy from 20 feet away.

 

[Jim Legere]

Re: Mast Painting

Ed,

I too have to do my mast the next time it's horizontal. I have done the booms. Used Interlux Brightsides Hatteras White. Pretty close.

My repairs from Hurricane Earl are progressng. The starboard toerail is off. Replacement arrives this week. Looking at the naked hull to deck joint - its pretty good after 28 years. Pictures to follow.

Best,
Jim

 

[Ed Schenck]

Looking forward to pictures of the hull/deck joint Jim. That must be a lot of work getting the stanchions and toerail off. Pulpit and pushpit too, right? I'll try the Hatteras but I think it is called Hatteras Off-white. I'll just sand, prime, and use a touch up brush. I would like to paint the whole mast but time does not permit.

 

[rardiH36]

When I bought my boat, PO receipts showed that all the standing rigging had been redone just the year before. So I have had no need to drop the mast.

But the factory original white paint job on the mast and boom was showing its age. With left-over Interlux Perfection 2-part polyurethane from cabin-top projects, and after priming with Interlux Epoxy-Primecoat, I've re-painted my mast as far as I can reach on a step ladder roped securely, and also the entire boom (which doesn't need a step ladder obviously).

At first, all looked great. But after not-too-much time, the new paint began to bubble up in spots where the aluminum was previously pitted. This is particularly the case next to stainless steel fittings.

What is the process for pacifying the pitted areas? Sandpaper or a wire brush won't remove all of the oxidated aluminum from these recessed spots.

Thanks for the ideas/solutions.

rardi

 

[Jim Legere]

Prepping aluminum for paint

Depending on the topcoat you are using, manufacturer's recommendation may vary. I have used zinc chromate primer on bare aluminum after sanding/wire-brushing. It is sort of a bright yellow so it may require more coats to cover. Zinc chromate is nasty, so pay attention to the safety instructions. I have not been troubled by Brightsides topcoat bubbling over this primer. Did my booms and a very scuzzy anchor windlass this way. Stilll good after 5+ years.

 

[rardiH36]

..... I have used zinc chromate primer on bare aluminum after sanding/wire-brushing. over this primer. Did my booms and a very scuzzy anchor windlass this way. Stilll good after 5+ years.

Jim:

Thanks. I'll do more research and prep the next time. Before I did my boom I actually talked directly with the manufacturer for advice. I probably wasn't clear enough that I had a few oxidized areas. So they told me that after a sanding, a coat of two-part top finish would be ok with no primer for going over the original factory mast/boom coating and also the occasional bare spot of fresh/clean aluminum that I might have exposed with the sanding.

 

[med2463]

Depending on the topcoat you are using, manufacturer's recommendation may vary. I have used zinc chromate primer on bare aluminum after sanding/wire-brushing. It is sort of a bright yellow so it may require more coats to cover. Zinc chromate is nasty, so pay attention to the safety instructions. Stilll good after 5+ years.

I used a white primer for aluminum from ACE hardware which I had used previously on my Morgan 34. Much easir to cover than the yellow or green zinc chromate. Lasted well on M-34. BTW I used "Matterhorn White" interlux. A little difference next to 30 year old factory white. Not noticeabley grey now that the whole mast and boom are painted.

 

[Ed Schenck]

You have made me remember that I did paint my booms many years ago. I have the evidence(pictures). I have no idea what I used but one of the pictures is named "primer". And you can see it is white. It might have been Rustoleum. Don't remember what went over the primer. Whichever, all these years later the booms look good.

 

[Ed Schenck]

H37C Rigging Measurements

Here are the numbers that I sent to Seco South for an estimate. As you know the shrouds are 1/4" and the backstay is 9/32".
Four lower shrouds: 23' 3 1/2" or 267.5"
Two upper shrouds: 43' 9" or 525"
Backstay: 48' 2 1/4" or 578.25"

But I am unsure about the forestay. Those of you with a real forestay. Is it the same as the backstay with a stud end into a turnbuckle? My Hyde forestay is : 47' 9.5" or 573.5". But that is top to bottom, pin to pin. The part of the forestay below the drum is 10.25". So I am hoping Seco South can figure it out.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

I like Mary's use of Interlux. I prefer Perfection for its improvement over standard Brightside and because it's like a poor man's Awlgrip. And it's much easier and less critical to mix and apply.

Mary's account of its drying in the length of time needed to paint one whole side of the mast is not consistent with what Interlux say about it but it's what I've usually advised people-- paint one coat, go out for a beer and a steak sandwich, and come back (usually the hardest part!) and apply the 2nd coat. I don't know anyone who has had a problem with this; but ambient temperatures could have been more optimum than is usually feared.

As for primer Interlux make a very good Primecoat (404 or 414) which is easy and quick to apply. The most important potential nightmare is in surface prep. Make sure the aluminum leaves NO oils or residue. This is vital. Painting over imperfect surfaces (especially with Perfection!) is a waste of energy and paint. You will NOT succeed in cheating on this rule.

Other than that the oft-repeated belief that this stuff can only be sprayed is bile. Use a good foam roller and have your helper tip out the drips. Sanding between coats is only optional and you will need to delay till the first coat is completely dry (12 hours plus) before applying 2nd coat. Even the most basic taking of care can get you a really nice job.

I just engaged a tip person for this job and look forward to doing the whole boat in the next 4-6 weeks.

 

[Ed Schenck]

When you do the mast JC, do you strip it bare to start? What about the hardware, is all of that taken off? When I took the shrouds home I tried to remove the tangs for the upper and the lowers. The bolts came out but there is a stainless shoulder that goes into the mast. I could twist or turn them in the hole but not pull them out. So to get the shrouds off I had to pull the cotter pins and then the big pins.