H37C Main sail reefing
- Thread starter gockleyd
- Start date
Why? The Kenyon system worked well for me for eighteen years...
Don't be afraid to take the end caps off the boom for regular maintenance. The first time, you will likely need an impact driver for the SS screws. After that, keep them well-coated in anti-seize and then disassembly will be a breeze. You can service the outhaul purchase while you're in there and check the reefing lines for chafe.
- Aug 10, 2010
- 106
The gooseneck holes may not be perfect, but I dont think nightmare is a good description 
. After 35yesrs I needed to rebuild mine, and the parts are expensive, I only found the parts at RigRite and they are way overpriced IMHO. I also added low friction rings to the sails instead of using the grommets in the sail on the leach. Using Dyneema spliced onto double braid as well to reduce friction when reefing. No complaints overall.
. After 35yesrs I needed to rebuild mine, and the parts are expensive, I only found the parts at RigRite and they are way overpriced IMHO. I also added low friction rings to the sails instead of using the grommets in the sail on the leach. Using Dyneema spliced onto double braid as well to reduce friction when reefing. No complaints overall.Attachments
I use a Carbo bearing block with a soft shackle to a SS ring for by reef lines. The ring goes on one side of the main and the soft sackle goes through the cringle to the block. Makes a very low friction connection.The gooseneck holes may not be perfect, but I dont think nightmare is a good description
This is encouraging me to try and get the original system working my gooseneck looks like this. And is clearly missing some parts. @chichiflys is the ss part a rigrite part or custom fabricated
Attachments
That hole through the gooseneck (to the left of the sheave) is for another pin that carries a jammer cam with a handle on each side of the boom - one for each reef. My gooseneck did not have the SS cheek plate - I suspect it is custom and its not strictly necessary. The parts are/were available from Rig Rite but not cheap! You could probably improvise with some parts from an old-style jammer like this:
- Aug 10, 2010
- 106
Hi - it's part of a rebuild kit. This may be the page you need. Kenyon 3756 Internal Gooseneck Assemblies
I think the whole rebuild kit is like $390. Crazy rip off.
- Aug 10, 2010
- 106
Cool - so if I'm following you that goes on the leach of the sail (in place of where i have my low friction rings)
I have them on both tack and clew cringles. I have a single line reefing system and friction made it impossible to get the line in. I now lower the halyard to a marked point that holds the tack block about 6" above the turning block in the boom and that lets the forward end of the line run freely through the Carbo block. The same thing happens at the clew.
My new main has rings for reefing so I just use the soft shackle to attach the block to the sail.
A mod that I made many years ago to my 1980 Cherubini H36. Been pretty satisfied with it: Here is the cut-and-paste of a post I made in 2013:
" From memory, believe that the OEM reef line jam cleats at the goose neck are the same as my 1980-82 Cherubini Hunter 36.
Buying the boat in 2007, I never liked the stock reefing setup at the goose neck. So I modified as described and pictured below ... which had the benefit of doing away with the jam cleats. For me, setting the reef was ok, but the springs would pull the cleat into locking position even when the line was slack. The reefing line would not run back through the boom when shaking out the reef. And also the line would not stay over the ridiculously small OEM sheave. Once off the sheave, the line would not feed well into the small opening at the goose neck.
The attached pictures show the original design (included so you can compare if it is the same as yours) and the modification I made. The large fender washer prevents the lines from jumping off the small sheaves. From inside the boom, the lines run down to blocks at the base of the mast, then back up to securing cleats on the mast. Pulling up on the lines before cleating allows for pretty good body tensioning position to get the clew close to the boom.
Subsequently I've replaced the fender washers with anodized aluminum cheeks salvaged from a nautical flea market block I purchased. The cheeks are larger in diameter than the fender washers and work better. The setup performs great for me. Items needed are: A 3/8" SS bolt (or maybe it was 5/16" ?) of the right length and a couple of washers and nuts. An old block for the salvaged checks. Couple of blocks at the mast base. I already had several cleats mounted on the mast."
" From memory, believe that the OEM reef line jam cleats at the goose neck are the same as my 1980-82 Cherubini Hunter 36.
Buying the boat in 2007, I never liked the stock reefing setup at the goose neck. So I modified as described and pictured below ... which had the benefit of doing away with the jam cleats. For me, setting the reef was ok, but the springs would pull the cleat into locking position even when the line was slack. The reefing line would not run back through the boom when shaking out the reef. And also the line would not stay over the ridiculously small OEM sheave. Once off the sheave, the line would not feed well into the small opening at the goose neck.
The attached pictures show the original design (included so you can compare if it is the same as yours) and the modification I made. The large fender washer prevents the lines from jumping off the small sheaves. From inside the boom, the lines run down to blocks at the base of the mast, then back up to securing cleats on the mast. Pulling up on the lines before cleating allows for pretty good body tensioning position to get the clew close to the boom.
Subsequently I've replaced the fender washers with anodized aluminum cheeks salvaged from a nautical flea market block I purchased. The cheeks are larger in diameter than the fender washers and work better. The setup performs great for me. Items needed are: A 3/8" SS bolt (or maybe it was 5/16" ?) of the right length and a couple of washers and nuts. An old block for the salvaged checks. Couple of blocks at the mast base. I already had several cleats mounted on the mast."
Internal boom reefing lines on H37c
The reefing lines on the H 37c are internal. At the mast end of the boom is a jam cheat to secure the line. This jam cleat has fallen apart. One part overboard. Can anyone suggest a source for replacement or the jam cleat or a source for replacement parts? Thanks,
forums.sailboatowners.com
Similar to what Hayden said. On my 356, the single line reefing works great, from the cockpit. To make it even better, I added bullet blocks on both luff and leach for each reef point. Lower the halyard until the forward block is a few inches above the boom. Use the winch to crank the reef line tight, remembering to make sure the main sheet and vang, if any, are loose enough to let the boom climb and insure the rear reef point is tucked right down on the boom. Once the reef blocks are tight on the boom, tuck up the halyard with the winch and off you go. This can be done at the dock before you head out or while hove-to on the water, with jib snugged and main luffing. Easy to do single-handed, even more easy with a crew.
Thanks rardiH36, Hayden & Paul356. I been wondering what a conversion to single line reefing would look like on my ’82 H30 and as I’m solo sailing more, it’s been moving up in priority. I have the same OEM jam cleat and small block at the goose neck, two rarely used forward reef cringles in the main and one spare deck organizer sheeve on each side of the cabintop to run reef lines back to the cockpit. I can see now how exactly to do this. Adding one more project to the list for this season.